Ok. So here's my situation. Bought an animal 70 455 convertible. Was actually set up for nitrous. Anyhow. The guy who owned it passed. But this Buick was so beautiful that I took a chance. Anyhow it's been a nightmare. Wiring for one. But I'm working thru that. Now I've narrowed it down to the starter Which when hot draws about 8 volts. Obviously not enough to power the msd box. So. Tried to replace the starter. Turns out the old starter worked only because it had a crazy shim in between the bendix. I'll try to post pictures. In any case it looks like the flex plate (race type not stock) was installed BACKWARDS. Basically the bendix is actually touching the flex plate. Just wondering. Has anyone else ever seen this? With a brand new powermaster starter
The flexplate is not installed backwards. That is impossible, it only goes on one way. The irregular bolt pattern ensures that the flex plate only goes on one way. I had this very same problem. The flexplate ring gear is too close because the flexplate is flat and lacks the proper offset. That brings the teeth too close to the starter pinion gear. I destroyed a few mini starters because of it. My initial solution was to buy the Robb Mc starter. That starter uses a mounting block that is bolted to the starter. That arrangement allows you to shim the starter to mounting block so you can back the pinion away from the flexplate. I had to use 2 1/16" shims to get the proper clearance. You should be able to do the same with the Tilton. My problems started with my new engine. The SFI flexplate that JW supplied was the problem. I was able to remedy it with the Robb Mc starter. Ultimately, I replaced the flexplate with a better SFI option. I changed my torque converter to one of Jim's 9.5" units, and while I was there, I changed the flexplate. Jim now uses a much nicer SFI flexplate with the proper offset, so the teeth are in the proper position. Upon installing this flexplate, I found I needed to remove both shims from my Robb Mc starter as the pinion was now a mile away from the newer flexplate. Original SFI flexplate (flat) Newer SFI flexplate, notice the offset.
Well, the flat one I used was a problem, and it was very obvious. There may be several different flat flexplates, and they may not all be a problem, but mine was. The starter pinion was nearly touching the flexplate at rest. As a result, the pinion gear would overshoot the flexplate teeth a bit, and then would grind when the engine started and it couldn't get out of the way. We had a thread about starter grinding and the cause was the same. I think the member was StKing. He actually posted a video. His solution was making a spacer for the pinion gear. I'll see if I can find the thread.
I had to have a thicker shim made for my power master starter to make it jive with the flat JW SfI plate
To pull the gear far enough back the supplied thicker washer still wasn't thick enough,..thinking I made it .125
Stuff like this happens in others motors too. Had 502 built for an ss pick up truck.......I think the start holes were drilled slightly outboard from where they should had been.......had to mill .200 off the starter mounting flange to get enough engagement......could do anything to make the gear go farther into the teeth ......after milling got the correct depth engagement but still only went about halfway through the teeth.......got it good enough to start without zinging the wheel
Thanks everyone. I took the advice, ordered & installed one more inner shim. That problem solved. A few other issues waiting on line .
Larry, It's too bad this flexplate w/o the off-set was ever sold. I have one, too. But I read on another thread that an additional problem is that it brought the torque converter a little too far forward, risking the possibility of damage to the converter and input shaft if they got disengaged from one another. It was recommended in the thread to use two 3/8" washers between the converter and flexplate to push the converter rearward. I did this on my car, but I didn't like it. But, I guess it is necessary. Still, I thought this could increase the risk of the bolts' loosening themselves up. Again, too bad this rendition was originally sold. Ranger Aiken, SC
That is part of installing ANY converter. If the converter is too far forward, the the notches in the converter neck do not adequately engage the front pump tangs, and that can lead to damage to those tangs. From the TCI site, " What type of clearance should I have between the torque converter and flexplate before pulling the converter forward and bolting it to flexplate? Answer:You should have 1/8" (.125") to 3/16" (.1875") between the torque converter and flexplate before pulling the converter forward and bolting it to flexplate." From the TA Performance site, http://taperformance.com/PDF/Converter_Instructions.pdf Installing washers is standard practice to get the clearance within spec, to prevent pump damage and subsequent loss of transmission oil pressure.
I had to add really thick washers on mine to keep it in correctly........last time the converter went backni sent them with to be welded on b4 balancing to make it permanent.....hated messing with them going in
Yes, welding them would be best. Yes, kinda B.S. having to fuss w/ this going in. One more thing we wouldn't "think" we'd hafta worry bout. Ranger Aiken, SC
