This is a issue for a friends 2006 Dodge Stratus 2.4L 4 cylinder. Past 3 or 4 years iv'e been adding 2 cans of refrigerant in the beginning of the summer and about 1 more can by summers end. The car is rusting at the back and growing further up so it's cheaper to charge than change the $150 leaking hose. I always charged it carefully with shutting off the AC switch to not fry the non spinning compressor clutch till it engaged. This past week I went to charge it 2 times and both times it took the 1 can and the vents blew cooler but both times I started adding the 2nd can the motor clattered rough and just plain shut down. Started up after shutting down the AC but after switching the AC again on the motor clattered and no cool air. I couldn't find any signs of leaked refrigerant.. Could a frozen or stuck AC compressor have the power to shut down the motor or could it be a computer program thing? Just want to add when my friend drives home after work on a few occasions the AC switch is on when iv'e gone to check and she claims her Grand daughter plays with the knobs.
When you say that "the motor clattered", do you mean the A/C compressor clattered? In general a "motor clattering" would be unrelated to over-filling the A/C system unless you over-filled the system and caused carnage in the compressor. What were the high-side and low-side pressures? I'm not an A/C pro but I think I've heard that some cars will shut off the compressor (not engine) if there is an over-pressure situation, although that might also only be for aftermarket add-on systems so that's probably not what is going on here. -Bob C.
Clattering wasn't the best choice of words, sorry.. The car went into a awful rough idle when I went to add a 2nd can. The motor does have on cold start up a clicking noise coming from the top plastic cover over the timing belt. I guess with the rough idle and compressor clutch and the engine bouncing around there were some strange sounds. I really do need to look at the timing belt pronto but are work schedules don't give me much time. I also need another set of eyes to watch the AC clutch and other things. I had to get a new charging hose due to the new self seal cans and it's a cheapie walmart job. It barely reached the green on the first can and then with the 2nd can the gauge needle was all over the place. She told me this morning that when she turned on the AC last night while driving it ran a little cool then started running rough. Knowing this car's AC issues for the last 5 years I don't think its over charged?? Just a little info, Car has it's issues with rust and check engine light thats off and on thats a tranny code. Just trying to get it through the summer. Stinks because it has about 128,000 miles and the oil was changed ever 3,000 spot on. Even got a new oil pan which started a new fresh no sludge at the bottom..
I had something similar happen charging my ‘04 Ranier. If you had a slug of liquid go through the system you may have blown the seal off the edge of the scroll in the compressor. If you don’t have gauges, see if you have a friend who can help. See if there is a pressure rises cross the compressor. If this has happened, it’s a compressor replacement.
I really do need another set of eyes and now a better gauge. A few things I left out, the girl at Autozone told me my older charging hose thats made for the older cans that have the seal would work. It doesn't have a gauge but has all brass fittings and has served well. I'm embarrassed to say that I emptied 3 cans into the air using this old hose. Sorry for the ozone layer.... one can was trying on my car as I thought her AC had finally quit. If anyone is curious I ended up getting a adapter that Walmart sells to use the old style hose I have to use on the new self sealer cans. The adapter worked ok and I got to put 1 can in the day before.. Sorry I am all over the place trying to explain but I went through 3 days of trying things and it's hard to put in the proper words. I do not believe I over charged the AC system but it's time for a new better quality hose and gauge. Mike, the pressure test you mentioned is with a gauge right and the AC has to be on?
Had an 05 Gran Prix in the shop yesterday with a cycling ac compressor. And not cold. Guy was buying WallyWorld freon for a few years. First step? Recover the freon. I recovered six pounds of 134. It held 1.75. Those DIY cans have their place, but the number to look at is discharge. You have to know what the compressor is doing. If your car doesn't have high pressure cutoff, it can easily stall your ride with too much gas.
Yes you will need to see if you get a pressure rise across the compressor. In reference to the post below on overcharging- the best way to make sure the system isn’t is to measure the pipe temperatures right at the point you are measuring the pressure. I’ve used infrared guns, but you need to make sure you have it pointed at the right thing. You want to see about 10 degrees above the boiling point for r134 which will be around 40 in the evaporator and you would see about 50 at the compressor giving you 10 degrees of what is called superheat. If the temperatures are the same you are likely pulling some liquid refrigerant over which can damage the compressor which only likes gas. If you are undercharged you will see more than 10 degrees of difference. Make sure the system is getting all outside air (no recirc) and the fan is on max
