This is probably an elementary question but im looking to replace my shocks to air shocks on my 67 Skylark . Iv never done that before but it looks straight forward. But to be sure. Where do i jack up the car to relieve tension? Also I wanna replace my springs. Do i do that first before shocks ?? I think itll make a bit more sense when im under there staring at it
Surprised no one replied.. Something is telling me you have already swapped the springs and shocks. The shocks don't really have any tension to relieve. If they are fixed shocks they stay to the level that there at. I would remove the big bottom bolt first and then the top 2 in the welded bracket. I would first blast the top bolts with penetrating oil a few times over the course of a couple hours. It has been so long for me but I think I remember the top has tact welded nuts that the screws go in. The top of the shock has a piece of flat steel that the nuts go through to attach them and one side of some shocks has a slot and the other side a closed round hole on that flat steel. Take the round hole nut off and if you loosen the other you can slide the shock off. It is best to put all new screws in because they 60 years old by now if they haven't been changed. To change the springs is pretty easy. You need to unbolt the shock at the bottom anyways. First though jack up the back on both sides and put jack stands under the frame on both sides..Take the rear tires off.. Put a jack under the rear end pumpkin/housing and secure it to where the rear end hangs. Take off the bottom shock bolts and then slowly lower the jack under the pumpkin to the point where you can take out the springs.. On a 67 there are no spring bolts, the springs sits up in a pocket up top with a piece of rubber molding to help silence and smooth the ride and the bottom of the spring tucks in a welded cup on the axle tubes.. Sorry for my confusing winded reply and I have a feeling you have done it already
No fortunately not yet. I got distracted with several other mini projects at the same lol. lately I’ve been working on The braking system and also pulled the intaymanifold off and valve covers to replace gaskets. The biggest project is convincing my wife every project is nessary at this moment lol. I’m so close to getting this thing on the road it’s frustrating
Too funny! Post some pics if you can.. Of the car not your wife or you could if you want... Edit: while you are under the car spray the shock bolts with penetrating oil on occasion..
Why do you want air shocks? The correct springs will raise the rear if thats what you are going for. My opinion - air shocks will ruin the ride. Get some decent gas shocks (KYB, etc) and new springs. Search this board for posts about rear springs. Lots of advice!
I don't know a lot about the differences between model years, but I recently replaced the springs and shocks in my 69. First, I would chock the front wheels so the car won't roll either way when you jack it up. Then, like Peter said, set it up with the jackstands and jack under the rear end center section. Then loosen the shock bolts and remove the lower ones first. My top bolts were not captured and had nuts on the other side that were a challenge to get to. Once you have the shock out, it is easier to remove and replace the springs. Make sure you note the position of the lower spring tips so you can get the new springs oriented correctly (not sure if it makes a difference, but it's what I did). If it were mine, I would also buy new spring isolators and put them on the top of the springs. To keep them from moving around on the spring, use a couple wraps of black electrical tape to attach them to the spring before you install it. Bolt in the new shocks without fully tightening the bolts, top bolts first. You may have to jack the rear end center section up or down a bit to line up the lower shock bolt. Once you have both sides done and the springs centered jack the rear end up a bit until it seems like it is about to unload the jackstands, then torque all the bolts down. Oh, and for sure, the penetrating oil can make a huge difference in the difficulty of getting the nuts off the bolts in these old cars! As far as the air lines go for air shocks, I'm not sure what to tell ya. I have never been a fan of them just to raise the rear of the car, so I have always avoided them.
When I was younger I used to have air shocks on my 78 Camaro so I remember it being cool airing it up .also I guess I was thinking that if I needed additional height would be cool. I’m not opposed to gas shocks. But having the option to change the rear height would be nice. But I’m guessing there’s only so far you can go on the down side depending on the stiffness of the springs? As of right now the back end of the cars left side is lower and I can push down on it like a trampoline fairly easy
Man I didn’t realize my spelling was horrible. I’m using the talk and text and sometimes it scrambles. I got some things I’m going to be uploading soon once weather clears. Definitely going to need some input/ideas and help
Well the drivers side has the most weight with the steering setup, brake booster etc. plus add the driver over the years. A replacement set of springs should help even it up. Air shocks also don't help with handling.
Just saw your utube videos nice.. I do want to say though your rear springs look really collapsed.. If you swap them I guarrentee a 100% difference in ride..
Definitely in the things in the near future. Although I don’t know which ones I’m supposed to choose. Constant or variable. Not sure the advantage or disadvantage of one of the other
I think Moog is a good company. I'm thinking constant is the factory type. The member "Wkillgs" is a 66 to 67 spring expert!
Use the search function: "rear+springs" Also this: https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/1967-gs-400-rear-coil-springs.381779/ Not sure it makes a big difference between 67 and 68-72 as far as rear springs - any advice should be good.
You can thank Peter for directing me to your thread! (The @ function doesn't work on this board) '67 uses a different style spring than the 65-66's I know. But I did look up the numbers in an old Moog Spring catalog I have. First you need to decide what height you want the car to sit at..... stock, higher, or lower. I like my 66's to sit a bit higher than stock. I'm using a Moog #6197 spring which puts them at about 12.5" measured from the center of the wheel cap to the edge of the fender lip. Tire size affects ride height, this measurement ignores tire size, it's all spring height. The closest '67-up spring to the one I'm using is the Moog #5409. Looks like it's not being made anymore. Your best bet is to call Laura at ESPO: https://www.springsnthings.com/ She knows her stuff, can set you up with stock/higher/lower height springs and pricing is competitive, probably around $100 a pair.
