Im going to rotate the crank to get one of the lobes for #2 cyl nose up. Currently #2 cyl, the rollers are on the heal or very near, and when I ran the drill oil was running out between the lifter and lifter bore. I'll post more vids as I go along.
Im using a 3/8 air drill. Im also running the Hi-Volume pump, which I know that will load the drill more than the standard volume pump. What I know, Oil is flowing where its suppose to, my front and rear oil pressure gauges are within 3-5 pounds of each other, the rear being the lesser number. Something is leaking oil out (lifter/s?) thus reducing the pressure. Running the drill to operate the pump, I've NEVER seem oil hemorrhage from between the lifter bore and body, ONLY from the pushrod seat (oil hole) Im also going to measure the lifter body diameter. Who knows, maybe there Chinese
Get the sludge 30 degree oil out of there.. Go to Walmart, and by a cheap 5Qt container of 5-30, and then leave it on the floor of your car, with the heater blasting on it, until it is good and warm.. Better yet, put it in a different container, and microwave it. Screw on a fresh filter, and pour in that warm oil... make the $25 investment here.. You have learned nothing so far, other than cold, sludgy oil is hard to pump. I too am concerned that your really close to the top of the lifter bore at full lift.. any kind of taper or bell mouth wear on the lifter bores might make if flood oil at high lift. Get the right oil, at the right temp in there, and then check for excessive oil bleed off. And check for oil flow, by pulling the lifters out one at a time, from front to rear.. Just to verify that they are passing oil.. should not be an issue, since the pressure hole is not fully obstructed by the lifter in a factory block. This is more critical on the driver side, than the passenger, when checking oil flow to keep noise in check.,. JW
I did an experiment, don't know if the results are valid, but it was interesting. I wired the #2 lifter up high enough to really expose the oil band, the drill was still bogging (no pressure loss) Raised it up a bit higher, oil started flowing onto the cam, drill sped up. Guess that's the reason for the fully shrouded wheel. Raise it up even more and total loss of pressure, oil flowing out the top of the lifter bore too.
Took some measurements of the lifter body diameter. Then checked the factory specs. for lifter dia. and clearance in bore.
Use mics. Lifter body should mic .842 minimum. I always overprime. Work the lifter cups submerged in container of clean oil so they aren't dry, bolt rockers, set preload & run pump till I see oil out of all rocker bodys, while eyeing temporary gage on block.
#8 cyl with lifters removed, plenty of oil flow to the rear! All the other lifters for cyls. 2 4 6 were in place. To see that oil flow that well to the rear makes me feel good
Now you have learned something... That's not your low oil pressure problem. Often, figuring out what it's not, is one of the most important steps. JW
Mark, You can almost use those lifters to set your calipers by. I have never measured any lifter body's less than .842 Some better than others at .8422-.8423 Lifter dia is more than likely not the issue.
Ahhh ok, Im "getting it" bit by bit I do feel good knowing that oil IS flowing to the rear of the block, like JW said "its figuring out what its not" It was worth removing the intake for this!
This may may sound like a stupid question, but is your idle speed the same as it was before? 50 or 75 rpm could make a 10 psi difference. Also, there will always be some oil coming out between the lifter and the bore. Even if there was only .0001" clearance, there would be an oil leak between the lifter and the bore. Unless you had a previous video to compare the oil leakage to, it really won't tell you anything(unless the lifter is is going up too high, exposing the oil passage area). Also, due to gravity, there will be more oil coming out on the bottom side than the top.Since you have the intake off, I would rotate the engine and make sure that you don't have 1 lifter exposing the oil passage.
Pretty sure Mark has had this low oil pressure in two differant blocks, using same cam/ lifter combo, which shouldn't happen.
it does only take 1 of the 16 to cause a leak, but that being said even at an idle speed of 600 the amount of time that the leak would be exposed would be so little I can't see it making a 10 psi drop. this question might had been answered b4 but have you checked pump clearances. with HV gears and only 10-12 psi something just isnt adding up. my HV gears running through the scavenger setup I have over 55psi running 20w50 with oil temp 180 and low 900 idle. by 1800 rpm it pegs my 100 psi gauge. my pressure is at my filter housing........I am adding a rear gauge pickup this spring b4 motor goes back in. I know it's a little apples to oranges comparison there. I've pulled motors from the yard with over 100k, completely stk cover and pump, just a down and dirty bearing slap......measure nothing......just swap in new have more than 10psi when warm. what's your bearing clearance, of course wider clearance will have less psi.......oil flow across the bearings is way more important than psi. what psi are you seeing at say 3000 rpm. what kind of gauge are you running, have you checked these reading against a different gauge just to make sure the gauge or sender or wiring doesn't have an issue. when you say your lifters take awhile to pump up..........are your saying it takes a long time to get oil to the rockers, or takes long for them to quite down. if we are going by sound only here, some lifters are just noisier than others, are we 100% sure we have correct pushrod length and lifter preload........I would say a minimum of .025 if running high rpms often but more towards .050 for your average driven motor. I ran my motor on my 3/8 brushless Milwaukee and it worked it, but I was also seeing 75-80 psi. something just isnt adding up, we are getting tons of load on the drill, good volume to rear, non aerated oil but only 10 psi ??????? something is missing I would check the calibration on the slider, if you had .004-.005 clearance around each lifter you would be getting alot of leakage even around the lifters not on the cam lobe.
Keep in mind that the oil pump is driven off the cam so it spins at 1/2 the crank speed. So if your drill spins 500 rpm it's the same as 1000 engine rpm. At this point i think you have to pull the engine and inspect the bearings.
That's what is perplexing me. I can produce 100 plus psi cold if Im not careful. Pressure drops faster than it should during warm up. 10 psi at hot idle. 10 psi at hot idle started after roller cam install in previous block. WOT pressure struggles to make 50 psi, it actually drops a bit when going to WOT, then tries to recover. Had the same issue with my previous block/build. These items are the same from my previous build, TA timing cover TA pump cover, which the filter bypass popped out of its bore, I had to stake it in, IT WASNT STAKED UPON ASSEMBLY from wherever TA sources these from TA roller cam/lifters TA roller rockers These items are new to the build, My original '71 block TA crank Molnar rods Auto Tec pistons. So far the lifters have been ruled out as an issue. Oil flow to the rear has been verified. `
