Im hoping this weekend will be comfortable enough to putz in the garage. I wanna find out for sure whats going on before something gets ruined before I even make it too the track
I've seriously thought about solids, BUT if the oil band is still not low enough to stop hemorrhaging at full lift solids wont work either since leakage up top starves the bottom end. Stay tuned for a full report with pics this weekend
When you get that intake off run the drill on the dist. gears or take the plugs out and spin the engine like mad, just disconnect the fuel pump lines. Don't want fuel blowing everywhere
Oh believe me Im gonna spin that pump and see whats up I usually do that before I even have the lifters in just to see the oil flow to the lifter galleys, its actually pretty interesting, but I didn't do it this time
Do a video, this ought to be interesting. Just sucks you have to take things apart just to see if the thing is oiling correctly, this problem shouldn't even exist. Good luck
did you mic the lifters and the bores on any of the 2 motors you are referring to? Just curious, because that will tell you a lot about your pressure drop.
Good idea^^ you can stick a heat lamp under the oil pan to warm it up overnight. I have had one under my oil pan all winter. The engine temp on top of the intake stays at 50* Hopefully it keeps the moisture out everything gets wet in my out garage after winter.
Heres a vid of oil flow to the right lifter galley, the drill was really bogging until I removed the lifters for #2 cyl I don't remember the drill bogging that much with flat tappet hydraulic lifters. The rollers seem like they're REALLY restricting oil flow down the most important oil galley, the right side. The oil needs to be changed tho, I'll wait till warmer weather
Heres a vid of #5 lifter on the nose of the cam, theres not much leeway before the oil band is exposed along with the oil supply hole for the lifter. I don't like it
My drill was REALLY bogging, I thought "well its only 45 deg. out, but I have 10/30 oil in 'er" Wasn't until I removed lifters for # 2 cyl did the drill spin like it normally does. I was looking at solid rollers on Summit, and they have huge holes in the lifter body, seemingly to let the oil flow/pass by easier since pressure isn't really needed to fill the chamber like hydraulic lifters. Do solids allow more/better oiling than hydraulics to the mains and rods?
Mark, Both of my roller cam base circles measure 1.040 They are both Erson. Might be tough to measure yours with cam installed. Maybe something to consider.
Mart are running solids, or are you going to run solids? If so, were are you purchasing them from? I've run Chevy flat tappet lifters before in my GS with no issues, just wondering if the compatibility crosses over to retro solid roller lifters
See post #4 pic. Those are chev solid rollers next to TA hyd rollers. No real oil band, & the oil hole is basically in same location as TA's. They are rated to 10k. I only need 8k
Mark ar you using a 1/2 inch drill or a 3/8 My 3/8 drill will slow down almost in 1/3 when the oil starts flowing. The 1/2 inch drill I borrowed did not slow down but does go a little slower than the 3/8 drill. Put the lifter at its highest lift and run the drill again with the camera on it. Lets look at that. If nothing else spin the motor around with out the plugs out of it. You almost need to be moving the motor around and keep the drill going full blast and looking at the lifters to see if any are leaking. you would need almost a second person or use a remote start switch so you can move the motor around. At least do the video of the lifter at its highest lift to see if there is a leak. ** You may have to check all of them since it may only be one letting the oil out.** Maybe all of the 350 blocks could be different in that area, core shift? If that is the problem. Mine will go up to 60 lbs when I start it up and can go to 80 with out much help from the gas I think it stays at 50 at idle. After it warms up for 1/2 hr it will settle down to 25 and jump right up to 50 with push of gas. If you can get a bulb spotlight or heat bulb under the oil pan do that to warm up the oil then try your testing.
I think you're barking up the wrong tree. Your rollers might be restricting oil flow to the rear. However that won't cause a low pressure situation. Did you have a leak around the lifters at full lift?
