Hey guys, My GS already had a roll bar installed when I bought it. The rear bends don't look right to me. If its incorrect like I think I'm just going to rip it out. Hopefully someone with experience can chime in... Thanks in advance.
I haven't been on the new lay out yet and just realized I posted this in the wrong section. Can an admin switch it over?
Doesn't look promising, the tube is crushed and placement is a terrible. I imagine the rest is not to hot either. I'd do it over with 1 5/8 moly
They are to the frame but like Hugger said the tubes are crushed or bent so there is a flat spot where it goes down. Still okay?
Have someone check the whole cage. Its probably OK minus the crushed tube. You probably will have to only replace the crushed tube.
My only thing is if the couldn't bend the tube , could they Weld? Cut they cut proper joints? Probably not. That's usually how cages work if one spot looks like dookie the rest probably does, much like a house
I don't like the crushed tube eirher. Wonder why with speakers being out did they not go through the hole their rather than hack up the rest of the package tray. How fast are you planning on going? This will greatly effect how much cage you need. You might be able to add a brace bar under that crushed area if the rest looks goo to give a little extra corner support. Are you planning on running the rear seat?
The crushed tubes may not pass. They look like they are not mandrel bent. Best thing to do is check either with a good chassis builder or the head tech inspector at the track,
I did not have access to a mandrel bender when I did the down bars for the front of the Regal and both tubes got a bit crushed/ flat spotted in a few places. The first time I tech'd after the install I fully expected the offcial to say something. As coincidence would have it the same guy was running the fuel site as well. When I mentioned I needed fuel he climbed into the passenger side to ride over to the fuel station. Didnt say a thing except my belts were a few months from exp. Im going to cover them with padding.
I don't wanna be Debbie Downer fellas ha, but just remember the object of a cage isn't to just pass tech , but to keep you safe, those crushed bars are compromised. A bad cage just becomes a trap in the event of a roll over. We lost a local racer early this season due to some poorley placed bars, and a down bar that wasn't welded correctly. I'm no chassis builder but my best friend is and he has straighted out some SCARY stuff on some FAST cars. The only reason I mention passing tech is that's what Matt my friend hears all the time "it passed tech" but most tech guys at small tracks aren't up to speed on stuff unfortunately, we don't even have Tech at our tracks. We have more than a few "fence pipe" "conduit" and even "PVC" cages running around because to run faster than 6.90's you need something that resembles a rollbar ha scary but true. Make sure the seat is SECURELY mounted also a seat tha t comes loose in a caged car is a deathtrap. Lost a racer couple years ago that crossed center rite after the 330 popped the wall at 70ish and hit his melon cause the seat was held on with sheet metal screws, he now pilots a wheel chair....Be careful
Mine are going to be what they are as long as I own the car. I do plan on getting into a tube chassis car in the future.
I would love to make a tube chassis car. I wish there was a cool builder near me so I could watch and learn.
A good friend, Jim Kline, owns GoFast Productions, in Wyoming MI, about 20 miles from our home. The shop does all my roll bars, loops and chassis work. I buy parts through them as well. I enjoy going there to see cars in various stages and meet up with other friends. My '70 Camaro RS street/strip car is on hold waiting to get in "body jail".
