Recommendation 455 build, 11.30's-12

Discussion in 'Wet behind the ears??' started by Jeremy Zepnick, Oct 6, 2021.

  1. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    That's a well thought out combination Rhett, and I am not surprised it runs as well as it does. A true 10:1 compression with very close to 0 deck, and I bet those heads flow much better than just a stock set of heads. Ignition, cam, converter, and gears help it be all it can be. Everything works together to get that result.

    My point is that the OP will need to change quite a bit on this 70 455 that has been sitting in someone's garage for 15 years to get anywhere near the numbers you are running. If that engine is healthy, and that is a big unknown at this point, the quickest path to his goals are a good set of heads. If the 70 455 hasn't been messed with, it should have around 9.5:1 compression. Just bolting on a set of aluminum heads with a cam like yours should get him where he wants to be.
     
    Jeremy Zepnick likes this.
  2. Bigpig455

    Bigpig455 Fastest of the slow....

    Larry agreed, I throw that out there as an example of a very careful build with an eye toward staying as stock as possible, which isnt important to most.. But there's many ways to skin a cat, and a good set of aluminum heads is a very cost effective path if originality isnt a consideration. Between machining and my time, I've probably got the cost of a set of TA street eliminators tied up in mine and they probably flow half as well. And I've been in builds where all I could do was hang stuff on an unknown shortblock and hope for the best, and most of those engines made better power than i expected

    That aside, I would really be surprised if my heads flowed any more than 240, I mean I really barely touched them
     
  3. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    It would be interesting to see what they flow one day. Most of your result is the well thought out combination and the way it all works together. I do not think running 12's is easy to attain with a full weight GS. The OP will find that out as most do.
     
  4. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Streetable to me means a car that you can drive anywhere under all traffic and temperature conditions. An engine that has a rough, plug fouling idle, a loose converter, runs very hot, and that drinks gasoline at an alarming rate, gets old really fast. It isn't fun to drive unless your foot is to the boards, and that isn't what a street car is for IMO.

    Everything you need to know to attain your goals is here in the threads of V8buick.
     
  5. Oldskewl59

    Oldskewl59 Gold Level Contributor

    Exactly!! Making a fast car and making a fast street car are two different things.
     
  6. quickstage1

    quickstage1 Well-Known Member

    It wasn't hard. Plenty of people have done it. Is it easier with ported irons or aluminum heads? Of course it is. Just saying it can be done and be completely streetable as mine was and my son's car is. Jim's converter works great in his car. No overheating in traffic either. He picked up a set of drag radials last weekend and he is planning on running it at Cecil next Friday.

    Ken
     
  7. Jeremy Zepnick

    Jeremy Zepnick STEELMAN

    Heard heads are nearly sold out everywhere. Or won't ship until February
     
  8. Bigpig455

    Bigpig455 Fastest of the slow....

    It's not easy, and I screwed around for +/- 6 years to get there. And to your earlier point, I cant agree more that power output means nothing without chassis work. Assuming there's no blatant issues, I wont do much at all with the engine before I've got the car able to launch clean. I learned a lot from Tom Telasco and Tom Miller on that score. But thats me,. some guys WANT to spin the tires!!
     
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  9. Dano

    Dano Platinum Level Contributor

    Not sure I agree on it only being tenths - Look @ Jason Line's car/times. Yes, surely maxed out on the HP but also rule limited. Much of that (high) 9 sec. ET must be in trans, rear gearing, and suspension. Otherwise, everyone on this site would at least be going 10's w/their 455's.
     
  10. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    I agree that the total et is a value of all the sums you put into your car, but I think Lines car is not the best car to compare to. His car is literally the the beyond peak in performance. There are things done with that car that the average car guy just can't duplicate. That motor makes hp way beyond what your normal build makes.......but given that......how long would that live not only on the track. But the street, same as that trans. He has as much in his transmission as many have in their motor.......and again, using those parts comes at a very dear cost. Crazy upfront price, and extremely short life span.......none of which applies to what the OP wants.

    So yes its a great example of what can be done. It showcases how important it is to perfectly match ever part, its a great example of squeezing literally everything out of car in the ET department. But its comparing apples to oranges to what the OP is doing
     
  11. Dano

    Dano Platinum Level Contributor

    Agree wholeheartedly on all points but I wasn't comparing to what the OP wants to do - Orig. was just countering Larry's assertion that the only way to go fast is HP & weight reduction & when I added suspension, trans, & gears he basically said (paraphrasing) "yea, but they're only tenths" to which I replied with the example of Line's car but there are many others that are maybe not as extreme.

    But look at a different extreme - take a very good purpose built tube chassis that's dialed in - Yes it's light but besides taking the weight alone into account, it doesn't take nearly as much HP to run high 9's/10's as starting w/one one of these old cars. Why not?
     
  12. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    It takes a certain amount of HP to push a certain weight car through a 1/4 mile at a certain trap speed. Less weight, less HP needed. Aerodynamics plays a part as well. Our cars are like a brick going through the air.
     
  13. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    1/10th reduction in 60’ equals 2-3 tenths on the big end, so yes, it can make a difference, but that isn’t relative to the OP’s question. He wants to build a 15 year old motor of questionable integrity to get at least 12 second time slips. The quickest way to do that is with good heads and the right cam. It’s also the best way to keep good street manners.
     
  14. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Sure it can be done, but again, think about what the OP is starting with. I do not think it is easy. It may have been for you, but most tinker around for years until they hit the right combination of parts to get there. Look at Rhett’s post. I stand by my original statement. Heads are the most essential part to get more power with the least downsides.
     
    rkammer likes this.
  15. Jeremy Zepnick

    Jeremy Zepnick STEELMAN

    Block is stripped. Cam was junk. Not gonna use the Heads. This is all I'm left with. Cylinders and pistons all look good.
     

    Attached Files:

  16. dan zepnick

    dan zepnick Well-Known Member

    Yes we found a good 70 455 core! Going to show him the ropes of buick improvements. And the importance of this fine group of people here on the board. Lots to decide on a combo now. On a side note,has anyone ever seen this on that front area of a block. Looks like someone tried welding numbers backwards,code?? I've taken apart a ton of 455's and never seen that.
     

    Attached Files:

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