Rebuilt Nailhead in my 64 Wildcat video series

Discussion in ''Da Nailhead' started by BamaWildcat, Dec 31, 2019.

  1. 2023 Edit: If you are considering doing business with David Gaines out of Florida, please make sure you read post 12 and below: https://v8buick.com/index.php?threa...-64-wildcat-video-series.353064/#post-3292686

    2019 was the year of the Nailhead rebuild for my Buick. Dave Gaines (dual-quadism) knocked it out of the park. There were some hurdles to clear, such as a Hurricane and a cracked block, but I'm proud my Wildcat is back on the road!
    engine_before_1.jpg engine_after_1.jpg engine_before_2.jpg engine_after_2.jpg


    Here are the videos of the engine getting back and getting installed:
     
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2023
  2. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    Joe,

    I gotta say you've done a wonderful job on a car your dad owned & sat in the salvage yard for 20+ years. I know your having FUN!!!!!
     
  3. gs66

    gs66 Silver Level contributor

    Looks great, enjoy!
     
  4. Wildcat GS

    Wildcat GS Wildcat GS

    Hi Joe,
    Where did you get the coolant filter? Congrats on the rebuild!
    Tom
     
    TrunkMonkey likes this.
  5. It's a Tefba filter. I got it from a company called FasterJags, but it appears they went out of business. I found this website: http://www.tefbafilters.com/
    Originally these things are made in Australia and imported.
     
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  6. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Totally bananas

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  7. Whichever filter, I recommend putting some magnets in them.
     
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  8. Dan Hach

    Dan Hach Well-Known Member

    What prompted you to leave the trans in? It seems like it would have been easier to take that out as a unit. Did you just wire up the bellhousing to the firewall?
     
  9. I debated it, but 9 bolts that all came out without issue vs. having this huge unwieldy slab of metal waving around, I believe for me it was a better choice to just do the motor. I didn't wire it up, I used blocks underneath the pan to keep it at an acceptable height.
     
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  10. Dan Hach

    Dan Hach Well-Known Member

    Makes sense. I'm planning a rebuild for mine this Spring. I'm weighing the pros and cons of all of that right now. One of my concerns is being able to move the car around with the engine out. Anyway, good job on your rebuild.
     
  11. TrunkMonkey likes this.
  12. I'd like to thank everyone that contributed to this thread. I have to give a very disappointing 2,000 mile update on the status of this Nailhead.
     
  13. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Totally bananas

    That just blows.
    Put that kind of money and effort into a build, get strung along for two years and then ghosted.
    :(
     
  14. gsgtx

    gsgtx Silver Level contributor

    the cranking compression is way to high unless you were running racing fuel had to have detonation. must be why the bearings were like that wondering what the main bearings look like. I feel bad for you really bad situation
     
    322bnh and BamaWildcat like this.
  15. Appreciate the comment. Concur it looked high to me, but I was cautioned that it being a loan-a-tool the tolerances could be more than a professional unit.
     
  16. gsgtx

    gsgtx Silver Level contributor

    do you know the dome size on the pistons ? and the compression height of the piston or how much they are down in the hole.
     
  17. Unfortunately I do not. I only know they are Racetec/Autotec forged units.
     
  18. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    Joe,

    I am so sorry to hear this. I feel bad for you knowing how much time, energy & attention to details you spent not to mention the amount of $$$ it cost you in the beginning.
    I'm hoping that this next one turns out GREAT!!!

    Tom T.
     
    TrunkMonkey likes this.
  19. Thank you for the kind words Tom. I'm thankful for this community, and those out there like yourself that always went above and beyond. These cars are always a labor of love, and I can't wait until I get this issue with resolved.
     
    Super Bald Menace likes this.
  20. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    Joe,

    Going by the theory of atmospheric pressure is 14.7-1 would mean at a cranking compression of 210lbs. = 14.28 static compression.
    210 divided by 14.7=14.28
    220lbs. = 14.96-1 static compression.
    As Joe stated at that compression you need race fuel only.
    BUT, at a normal compression of 175-185psi. when new = between 11.9-12.58 compression ratio. Now knowing out of all the one's I've actually measured that the best was 9.75-1 with the piston in the hole .040" which is rare as MOST are in the hole .055". So it doesn't make sense using that calculation, but in any case it was too high as being part of your problem which pounded the bearings.
    Hopefully the present engine can get by with polishing the crank & honing the cylinders. IF it ends up with too much clearance honing you have the option of getting the pistons coated to take up some of the clearances by using Line-Line which specializes in these coatings which will save the cost of new pistons. The material under the heads of the pistons has enough material to remove some of the dome to lower the static compression to a more tolerable/normal level. Just takes more time & proper measurements nec. to perform the task at hand. ALSO the finished combustion chamber CC's of the heads come into play here along with deck height of the block & piston compression height.
    Again, good luck with the new builder.

    Tom T.
     

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