Hello all... so here we are.... after 5, almost 6 months, everything is here to start the rebuild. Motivation has not been much due to some private life issues, so I thought of starting this thread to try and keep me motivated. after all those months on the other thread and so many discussions and help from all you guys I feel I owe you all this thread and get that engine rebuilt. The parts finally arrived, about 2 weeks ago, and only yesterday I had the motivation to open up the box from TA. here's a photo... of a box... with smaller boxes inside hahaha. Hoping to get down the workshop this week or weekend to do the hone (using the ball flex hone tool). Then after properly cleaning the engine I'm taking it to a friends house where we will put it together, its cleaner and warmer at his house and he's making sure I get through it and actually rebuild the thing.
I understand that life gets in the way, I really do. But how in the heck can you go two weeks without opening that box? It's boxes like that, that make my day. Maybe it's just me, but I like to track them and know exactly when they are going to show up. When they do I tear into them and drool over all my new parts.
My 11 year old and his friends make "Unboxing" video's, which I think are ridiculous. This box however would make a great addition though as I will be doing it someday...............
Thanks. I'm definitely going to need a lot of luck and help. I don't even have a manual for the engine, and impossible to get my hands on one over here. I will start with the hone on saturday. I have the flex hone. so the idea/process will be the following: 1. lubricate bored and flex hone with motorcycle engine oil (because i have loads in the garage) 2. offer flex hone tool to the top of bore and push in at the same time as starting the drill ( I have seen it like this on Youtube videos, but some people say to push the flex hone tool in and only start once in?) and also never stop it inside, always pull out as it's spinning) 3. Once one bore is done, before moving to the next one, wash the flex hone in a bucket of warm soapy water - is this step required? I've seen some doing it and other not. 4. Once all bores done and have a nice cross hatch - wash the hell of the engine block - Use tons of brake fluid, pressure washer and blue roll. Once it's all clean, what should I cover everything on to protect? as it will probably be a few days/week till I get to actually start engine assembly. thanks JP
For anyone interested here is the original thread when all went wrong on the 1st of September 2017. Where i got a rocker valve knock when stationary. http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/help-with-my-little-350-please.324888/ From there not much wrong was found with it..and the culprit for the rocker noise being the oil pump and possibly a loss of oil pressure. The parts list for the rebuild are the following, which is what's inside the box and had to wait so long because I shipped the parts from the US inside a container I had coming in to the UK with a 51 panhead. CCA-504-16------- Summit Valve seals 14.97 FEL-MS96006----Summit Valley Pan 20.97 TA1436------------TA Valve springs for 212 cam 75 old ones-----------TA Spring retainers 0 TA_1521----------TA Timing gear stock replacement 39.95 TA1635C----------TA piston rings standard 75 TA212-350-------TA 212-350 cam 185 TA1406-----------TA Hydraulic lifters 68-69 79 TA1419A----------TA Stock pushrods ?? CONFIRM 49 TA1507-----------TA oil pump rebuild kit 29.95 TA1502-----------TA oil pressure regulator 19.95 TA1510-----------TA booster plate 25.95 TA1704----------TA oil pump shim kit 20.59 TA1550----------TA standard Main bearings 89.95 TA1540----------TA .010 Rod Bearings 65 TA1559----------TA High Perf cam bearing kit 74.75 TA1705----------TA full gasket set with neoprene 59.95 TA1520D--------TA 5/8 oil pickup tube 29 TA1515----------TA Rear Main seal 16.95
Usually, trying to mix water with oil and honing grit results in clogging up the pores of the stones. Then it doesn't cut. Most CNC grinders now use aqueous coolants, and the concentration and flooding is important to maintain, otherwise you lose control of your process. I've tried several times to adapt even specific solutions to my hone procedure and it has always slowed things down and made more mess to deal with. This is with chemicals that are designed to do 'some' honing and specific grinding. They seem to need a ridiculous amount of flood and a spread out filter paper to deal with the swarf. I'm not experienced on the glob brush but using water based or in the process with hone stones and pressure is a difficult learning curve. I get that you are only trying to put some scratches in there.
I thought I outlined the honing process in your other thread for you? As stated, don't submerge in water, if you feel the need to clean the ball hone after every cylinder then brake clean and compressed air would be your friend. I usually wait to clean the hone after I'm finished with it. I do add new oil to each cylinder though, I would think that would be more important than cleaning the hone for each one.(you'll see when you do a couple holes) GL
thanks gents. I was down the pub last night with my friend who's going to help me with all this and he said the same, dont use the water, just keep lubricating. one of the things I need to find is a manual.. as I dont have the torque settings for anything. Actually, now thinking about it I think someone put on the other thread the torque settings and head bolting pattern.... so I need to search in there.
You should have had TA throw a catalog in with all the parts you bought. It has helpful info & torque specs.
Have you tried taping one of them up in a box??? Get one of their friends to do it so it isn't illegal.
Aint that the truth! And there is that comforting feeling of oil stained fingerprints lining the pages of a vehicle related manual.
