Rear Control Arm issues

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by skierkaj, Sep 18, 2007.

  1. BillMah52

    BillMah52 Well-Known Member

    This shows the differences. Top is from 10 bolt. Bottom is from 12 bolt.
    Notice the notch?
     

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  2. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member



    Bill,
    That may not be the only difference. I remember Bob Christo telling me that he had a wicked shimmy at the top end of the track until he changed his arms. Gotta call him and ask.
     
  3. racenu

    racenu Well-Known Member

    I found some other photos that may help.. I prob didn't take a pic on the side you are having trouble with. I didn't notice any clearance issues with my setup but after reading this thread I will definatly have to take a closer look at my control arms and see if my setup is ok? good topic guys:TU: ....
     

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  4. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    OK,
    I just got off the phone with Bob Christo. The arms are different. I'm not sure if you can see it, but they are different. He told me his suspension would bind up, and this gave him problems at the top end of the track. He switched to adjustables and that solved the problem. It may just be that clearance issue or possibly a length issue, but adjustables should solve the problem. He has Edelbrock adjustables and I have Metco adjustables on my 10 bolt. Those two arms have a U shape that fits around the pumpkin bushing so there is no potential for clearance problems. Other adjustable arms may have a problem. You may be able to grind the arms themselves.
     
  5. tlivingd

    tlivingd BIG BLOCK, THE ANTI PRIUS

    guess i know what i'm now doing this afternoon. :pray:

    -nate
     
  6. BillMah52

    BillMah52 Well-Known Member

    I just posted the pic to show that YES there is a difference between the two stock arms. John (the originator of this thread) is using Global West adjustables and is having clearance problems. Without pictures, I'm just throwing possibilities out there. I've done this a few times with A-bodies and 12 bolts and never had issues. The forks are close but there should not be any contact with the housing.

    And what is the Whiz doing on the board in the middle of the day?
    BACK TO WORK!!!!
     
  7. skierkaj

    skierkaj Day 2 Street Screamer

    Thanks for the photo once again . . . lost my camera!:af:

    Here's exactly where i'm having my issue. Like I said at 3:30 AM . . . I'll get a better look at it this weekend.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member


    Hey, I am working:Smarty: I'm on my meal:puzzled: . I live in the patrol area, I just bring the car home, eat, and go back to work:laugh:


    I don't know about a 10 bolt to 12 bolt, but I had to adjust my upper arms quite a bit when I went from my 8.2 to the 8.5. There was a big difference in the pinion angle after the swap. I also noticed that one of the ears for the bushings was offset closer to the pumpkin on one side. When I installed the no hop bars on my 8.2, I was able to use the bushing tool I got from HR Parts n Stuff to remove both bushings. I could only use the tool on one side of the 8.5. The tool would not fit on the other side, so I had to drill out the rubber and collapse the shell to get it out. I noticed that on a friends 12 bolt install also. This is probably where the clearance issue is.
     
  9. skierkaj

    skierkaj Day 2 Street Screamer

    :gp: That's exactly where the clearance issue is.
     
  10. skierkaj

    skierkaj Day 2 Street Screamer

    Well, I got to take a closer look at it today. I even found my camera and took some pics, but I left the camera at the shop.

    The photos didn't turn out so well from what I could tell anyway. It's just frustrating as to why they don't line up right and clear.

    When I get some time, I'll concentrate on that instead of covering myself with filler dust and primer. On a lighter note, the hood, decklid, and doors are almost ready for paint!
     
  11. racenu

    racenu Well-Known Member

    Hutch...did you also add the adjustable strut arms that run diagonally from the lower rear control arms front mounting location to the top of frame where your adjustable uppers mount? The reason I ask is that I did and when i dropped the body on to test fit it those arms that I installed came in contact with the underside of the car body? I had to releive that area of the body so the arms don't rub? I wonder if anyone else has this problem. Boy I can't wait to have fun installing a new wiring harness after I've had fun with all the direct bolt on stuff i've done thus far....
     
  12. skierkaj

    skierkaj Day 2 Street Screamer

    Problem solved!!!

    Here's some pics of what I had to do to get them to clear the housing . . .

    What it should look like . . .
    [​IMG]



    To this . . .
    [​IMG]


    I just took a pic of both sides of the one arm, so that you can get an idea of how much it needed to be clearanced.


    And yes, it did rub on the housing . . .

    [​IMG]


    Talk about a headache!


    I haven't looked into the extra braces yet, but I'll keep the body clearance thing in mind! TY!!! :TU:


    Now that I'm looking at the pic, maybe the rubber part of my bushing was offset too far towards the differential case. That would explain the clearance issue, but I wouldn't see how it could've possibly moved. Maybe the bushings weren't assembled properly from the factory?!
     
  13. skierkaj

    skierkaj Day 2 Street Screamer

    Here's a few more shots of the frame, brakes, and suspension . . .

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Couldn't have gotten this far without some recommendations on certain parts by people on this board. TY all!!! :TU:
     
  14. racenu

    racenu Well-Known Member

    Nice progress Hutch, I see we are using the same front suspension as well, it was interesting installing the front springs I bet...
    Gord
     
  15. skierkaj

    skierkaj Day 2 Street Screamer

    Yeah! I used a piece of 5/8" threaded rod, some washers, and a steel plate on the bottom of the lower control arm, and just kept turning the nut on the top until it drew it far enough up to get the spindles attached. Of course, I did use ratchet straps as a precautionary measure!!!
     
  16. racenu

    racenu Well-Known Member

    Like this:laugh:
    PS... Don't try this at home
     

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