Rear Control Arm Bushing Part # ?????

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by mnelson007, Jul 17, 2008.

  1. mnelson007

    mnelson007 Well-Known Member

    I am replacing my rear control arm bushings for both the uppers and lowers. I want to replace both the front and rear bushings ( 8 locations ) for each control arm. I went to NAPA and the drawing they had was sketchy at best. NAPA indicated that all 8 Bushings are typical, their part # NCP 267-4219. Does anybody know if these are the right parts for my 1971 GS ? Also, does anybody in our Buick community offer a product for this application?
     
  2. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    Check for MOOG listings. They are the superior stock type replacements. You cannot beat their products. I am in the same boat and have replaced my fronts with Moog and will be looking for rears. Did you check Moog site? I will hunt around and see if I can find any #s. Who knows Napa brand may be Moog.
     
  3. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    Here is the number I found for the NAPA parts at NAPA online. They list #2674219 for both lower and upper. They say they are only available at their stores. No luck findin MOOG number yet.
     
  4. wkillgs

    wkillgs Gold Level Contributor

    Try www.rockauto.com
    they carry Moog parts.
     
  5. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    I played with that Rock Auto site for an hour and found no MOOG listings for our cars. Just show red something or other and Spicer?? I found two MOOG part numbers for rear at Summit racing K6111 and K5161. I guess different types used fro upper and lower. No listing how many you need of each or how many in box.
     
  6. ubushaus

    ubushaus Gold Level Contributor

    I found the Moog K5161 on Rockauto. It's listed as Rear for either Upper or Lower and is sold as a kit. Each kit would be two bushings - enough for one arm, so you need four kits. It's interesting to see all of the cars and years covered by the same part!
     
  7. PaulGS

    PaulGS Well-Known Member

    K5161 is the correct MOOG number.
     
  8. GSDrew

    GSDrew Well-Known Member

    For my 67 GS Special 340 the upper trailing arms only take one bushing, the other bushing mounts in the ears of the differential... or so the drawing indicates.
    When I asked Summit for a complete factory rear-end bushing kit of 8 bushings they said all they offer is a set of Moog 5161 bushing per each control arm (2 req. per car) and nothing is listed for tailling arms.
    So, are all 8 bushings the same?
    Thanks
     
  9. ubushaus

    ubushaus Gold Level Contributor

    I hope someone who has actually done it chimes in.

    This weekend at the warehouse I tore out my diff and brought it home to clean it up and get it ready to install the posi I bought for it. From the appearance of the parts, I agree that with a single kit of two bushings for the upper trailing arm, one gets installed on the diff and the other gets installed on the trailing arm itself.

    Summit may be using the term "control arm" where we are using "trailing arm", and there are four (two upper, two lower) on the car.
     
  10. PaulGS

    PaulGS Well-Known Member

    There are 8 bushings in the rear suspension:

    The 2 lower control arms use 2 each - 4 total

    The upper control arms use 1 in each arm, and 1 in each side of the differential mounting ears - 4 total

    So you need 8 bushings. They are sold in a kit of 2.

    Be sure that you use the right tooling to remove/install. The arms are easily deformed. And, DO NOT use the BFH method, especially on the rear end.
     
  11. ubushaus

    ubushaus Gold Level Contributor

    Can you 'splain? What are these tools you speak of?
     
  12. PaulGS

    PaulGS Well-Known Member

    The rear control arms are made of sheetmetal. The bushings are a press fit.

    When you go to press them out (or in), the sides of the control arms will bend.

    Here is what I do:

    You will need a large bench vise or a ball joint tool for the extraction/insertion.

    Soak the bushings with PB Blaster for a day of so to help break the corrosion.

    Get a iron pipe nipple at you local hardware store that has an inner diameter a little larger that the outer diameter of the bushing. Cut the nipple in half lengthwise so you have a clam shell. Then, cut the 2 pieces so that they fit around the bushing in the control arm. This prevents the control arm from collapsing when you start to crank down with the pusher (vise or ball joint tool). The bushings let out a loud bang when they let go, as the the press fit is pretty tight.

    If you use a vise, you will need a "pusher" and "receiver". I use a socket to push, and a piece of iron pipe to receive. Put the clamshell tool in the arm first. The socket needs to be a little smaller than the bushing. To install, do the same thing, but be sure the bushing is started strait. It takes a lot of pressure to get the bushings out. I always use a small amount of anti seeze on the bushings before I press them in.

    On the axle housing, I use a 2 jaw puller and a 1/4" siece of steel. I put the jaws of the puller on the ear of the rear end, and place the steel piece on the bushing for extraction and insertion. Again, use PB Blaster first.

    If you look at the FSM, the dealers use a number of specialty tools to perform this.

    Or, most machine shops have the tools to do it for you.
     
  13. nekkidhillbilly

    nekkidhillbilly jeffreyrigged youtube channel owner

    also dont try poly in your rear uppers
     
  14. GSDrew

    GSDrew Well-Known Member

    PaulG,
    So are all 8 bushings the same?
    Thanks,
     
  15. Steve Schiebel

    Steve Schiebel Well-Known Member

    CARS, Inc. all 8 (4 pair) stock type $100
    see page 52

    http://www.oldbuickparts.com/catsky/sky05.pdf

    IMHO, unless you plan alot of strip or autocross time, I'd use the stock rubber type. No squeaks and a nicer ride. Also, box the control arms while you've got them out. In addition to stiffening suspension, it'll also aid in preventing them from getting bent while pressing out/in new bushings.
     
  16. Jim Weise

    Jim Weise EFI/DIS 482

    Drew,

    Get HrPartsnstuff's bushing tool.. worth it's weight in gold for this job. I think the tool is around $100, but it's well worth it, and you can rent it out to your friends to recoup the cost.

    Here's their website.. http://www.hrpartsandstuff.com/

    Look under "tools" and then "Bushing tool"

    I remove the old ones exactly as PaulGS has described, except for the upper on the rear housing.. I use the tool for that bushing, and then use the tool to pull all the new bushings back into the arms and the rear housing.

    You can use the tool to pull the bushings out of the arms, if you don't have a press handy.

    You will have to brace the arms inside, Like PaulGS said.. but it's easy enough to do.. I use 2" PCV pipe, with enough cut out of it to be able to fit around the bushing.. works slick. Just did it here about two weeks ago.. with a hoist, and a car that wasn't rusted to death, it was a two hour job to change all 8.



    JW
     
  17. PaulGS

    PaulGS Well-Known Member

    Yes, all 8 bushings for the upper and lower control arms are the same.
     
  18. Aerobatix

    Aerobatix Well-Known Member

    OK - I'm about to tackle replacing the bushings in my rear control arms. I bought the HRParts tool and the correct MOOG bushings.

    I'll be doing this at home in the garage. Do I jack up the car and put it on stands and then jack the rear a bit and put it on stands as well? My thinking is to remove a bit of the load from the rear suspension to ease removal of the control arms.

    Is this a logical process to remove the arms to replace the bushings? If anyone can add a bit of detail to the process I would appreciate it!

    Thanks!!!

    Rob

     
  19. PaulGS

    PaulGS Well-Known Member

    I place stands under the frame, then place the floor jack under the diff pumpkin. The jack allows you to take the arms off one by one.

    If you have the tools, you can do this in an afternoon.

    GM still sells the control arm bolts. I replace those as well.
     
  20. 65specialconver

    65specialconver kennedy-bell MIA

    Ive done this on 3 different cars,in my garage,on my back:laugh: all 8 are the same EXCEPT 1964 uses an oval bushing in the rear end that suppposedly isnt available...but ive never looked either.I do one side at a time & have had to reef the rear end forward with a tiedown strap to line up the bolts 'cause the rear shifted while loose...thats fun:Dou:
     

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