Rag Joint Bushings

Hi All,
Interested if these black bushings shown below on this 1967 rag joint available? What years used them? Do most people omit them?

Cheers.
Mike

 

Someone has seen these before.

 

If you know the ID/OD, flange thickness and height, you should be able to find a suitable bushing.

https://www.google.com/search?q=nyl...img&ei=2T7JX-eIN-WXtgWZpYaYBA&bih=449&biw=976

(Unless those are coated metal?)

 

Thanks Michael. Do people use them and are they of value somehow. All rag joint design seem so similar and yet you never see bushings. Cheers, Mike

 

They are what holds the rubber part of the rag joint together. I don't believe they come apart.

What are you trying to do make new rubber pieces?
Duane

 

Hi Duane,
What you are seeing are bushings/sleeves OVER the shafts holding the rubber. I've seen a rag joints just not many of these bushing and have never seen them used. They would simply slide over the pins and with the flange slot, possibly minimizing steering wheel dance.

Just curious,
Mike

 

Gotcha.

 

Haven't seen those on ANY rag joints I've EVER replaced over the years.

 

All,

Thanks for the responses so far but i need a bit more please.. I've convinced myself that I have found my non-operable horn issue. I have confirm the brass to brass contact is good, and the brass to galvanized is good, BUT the galvanized to steel pin is non electrically conductive. I think I need a good idea to remove the corrosion between the two as I'd prefer to use this rag joint if possible. Any ideas?


Correction: Problem is between brass and galvanized.

Thanks
Mike

 

Get a container that will hold the joint, pour white vinegar mixed with half a cup of salt and stir it up, heat it up to 160F or so, and then put the joint in their.

After about 10 minutes, dump out and rinse the joint, then do the same thing with baking soda and salt and put the rag joint in and agitate it for a few minutes, then rinse for a minute under running water.

After it is dry, use tinning paste and solder the wire to brass connections. Check for continuity.

Then use serrated washer when you put the nut back on. Wire brush the areas that mate to the "stack up" when you put the joint back together and between the shaft and gearbox input. After it is all bac together, spray paint it turning the wheel for coverage.

 

Thanks Michael! That's what I'm taking about!

 

Happy to help.

I forgot. Use an old toothbrush during the acid stage to help remove oxidation.

 

I would rather use Evaporust instead of vinegar but that's just me.

 

Those should have nothing to do with your slop in your steering. The rag part of the rag joint might account for some slop but it is splined on both sides and the pins are in case the rag breaks so you don't completely lose steering. If the bushings are taking up the slp, your rag joint is worn out.

 

Update.....Soldering solved the conductivity issue with the rag joint. Also needed to clean the surface rust off the horn button receiver to get the horn to work. Thanks guys for all the advice. Very much appreciated. Mike