Ths grove is in #2 main saddle 72 455 Is there a fix or solution to safety use this block? It's a really nice engine block
I think the answer depends on: The application stock/street/strip/race. For a stock rebuild it's probably OK if it came that way from the factory and ran for 75K + miles. If it's the #'s matching block for a vehicle that matters. For anything other than a stock rebuild I would say it's not worth it.
Neat process, buy can imagine what thst would cost ....you would have to bake the whole block up to temp....then do that. Then control the temps on cool does to prevent cracks the the amount of machining it would take to straighten that all back out would be crazy. Now that chip doesn't look to be into the threads, and not on the side with the bearing tang....so its not on a major load area. I would bet if that was demurred and rolled to help stop cracks thst there would be no issue with that for most ppl use. Not if your plans are nothing but full throttle racing I might rethink
Yup, I'm with you...as interesting as the process is, the preheat requirement could pretty much put everything out of whack. With you on this too...the threads seem ok, and as long as a magnaflux shows no cracks have already propagated, the careful deburr might be the way to go. The caps and the bolts/studs get hit the hardest due to cyl pressure. Block may be ok for less than racing stuff. Devon
once torque is applied and block +cap start to deflect and they WILL! this will be a HUGE failure just waiting to happen. i might leave it in the corner of the shop if it was a 70 ss block. {though i dont know why lol} scrap pile!!!!!!! charlie,
I'm thinking grind the rough surface with a head porting burr, enough to remove the sand impression ,fill with a small cast repair stick rod, take your time, to avoid creating lot of heat, over fill slightly , have it machined should not be too expensive ,should be ok for 500 horses ,obviously it has survived 50 years already.
I'd have that area magna fluxed to check for more issues. If its not cracked I'd grind it smooth and run it. I would not bother filling it. Worst thing that can happen is a catastrophic failure.
OK, you guys came up with some great ideas i didn't even think of ,thx Altimatlly, I'm going to abandon this block and go with different one. A blemished casting is one of the last things I need to worry about This confirms my suspicion *
Someone broke a chip out of the block, in an area that's not enormously stressed. Ordinary "street cruiser/Dairy Queen" use? Run it after polishing the roughness. I sure wouldn't "SCRAP" that block...SOMEONE could use it for a cruiser, even if that isn't YOUR goal.
I would not run that as is. That missing material is right on the Bearing parting line which is where all the Bearing crush takes place when the cap is bolted on which is really what holds the Bearing in place from spinning, not the two Bearing tangs. Without that missing material you have lost 40 % of the needed Bearing crush on that side of the main Bore.
OK, I have been corrected, and I accept that my previous post is in error. Yes, bearing crush would be somewhat affected, with potential consequences in terms of oil film strength and bearing stability.
Those seem to starts as a casting imperfection like a pimple, some just fall apart like yours. We have seen such impurities in blocks, and when we picked at the hole or the cavity, it gets bigger and looks like sand crumbling out. Pretty scary, had a small one in a lifter bore and was able to repair it on one of my motors. Another big one we saw was on the side pan rail on a V6 that will be racing in BG next May. That one needed welding, and my machinist Robert Fulco was able to save it. Yet, your is in a critical spot. Follow what the others members are saying or "maybe" save it for a stock application. Fernando
