Hey guys still havn't gotten my engine back. I was going to put it back together with the old pistons and rods so I could enjoy my summer, all it realy needed was a crank anyway. I am planning on sending my new parts with another block and crank to someone like Jim, then all I would have to do is change engines when it was ready and have almost 0 down time. I just hope I havn't lost everything, all I have here is my new timing cover, roller rockers and the intake so he has everything. I had to stop worrying about it, it was making me sick. One way or the other I will ride this summer.
you may not get your moneyback either way but if you got reciepts you have paid deposit , id go there with a couple big buddys or relatives and not take no for an answer to take home your own stuff thats bs but if you owe him money and he can prove it,thats another story if he wants to call the cops,you have witnesses and i think it would be hard to believe it would not be your stuff,come on its a buick,not a chevy or a ford this guy tries to act like your buddy but hes treating u like trash ken
ken you hit the nail on the head with that one. And I don't want him to do it anyway because he told me he bought torque plates for $750.00 and I have yet to see them. I found them for like 400.00. I called him today and he said he was going to have it ready by fri. this week, to have my money ready! Then he said he had to take a call and he would call me back in 30 min, that never happened. After my last post on here I called him back told him I was broke wnd how much more would it be. He got all choked up and said he would have to punch some numbers and call me back. I told him I thought it would be better for me to just freshen my old stuff up trying to be nice and not mention that he had $1500.00 of my money. I wanted to tell him that I didn't care if he could have it ready fri. ,cause I knew he didn't have the torque plates. Does anybody on here have an idea what this machine work would cost :: Clean and mag block, bore and hone to 0.38 over, line hone with studs, install cam bearings freeze and oil galley plugs, ballance the rotating assy with the TA sportsman rods and TA SRP pistons
I would think your $1500 should cover all of that!? My bill from the machinist was around $1200 But, I installed the soft plugs and oil plugs my self. GO GET YOUR PROPORTY MAN. Wich is worse, feeling bad cause you saved your motor or letting someone giving you a faulse sence of hope and still wondering if it may be machined right??? I can say that the Machinist that done my block, rods and crank. Didn't make me happy. I went back and Questioned him, wanting him to make it right. He wanted to argue with me and laugh at me. He hogged my rods out (did a worse job) :blast: "I wanted to knock his lights out"! LOL Good thing I just left and came back the next day, got my heads that I was gona have him do. and took my stuff to a recomended well known shop 90 mi away.... at the end I was happier! Good luck.
u need to specify, labor only or parts and labor,i supplied those same parts and had a motor done like that honed,cleaned,cam bearings,zero square decked and balanced and it was 800.00 labor onlyou: ken
You did the right thing man!!! I have already expected to not get my money back, I am just wanting my parts back and be done with the fool. I feel like a fool myself but I wont make this mistake again with any engine. I thought $1500.00 would have been close to cover the bill. $500.00 of it was for some jessel roller rockers new in the box, I went to take a look at them and he pulled out some V6 rockers. He said the guy sent me the wrong rockers, then said I will just put the money with your deposit. That was last april and the first lie. I should have everything by the end of the week. Man I can't wait to post some finished project picturesray:
It was labor only I had all the parts. Now I know he just wants more money and thats why he got all choked up a little while ago when I told him I was broke.
Well guys, I told him I wanted to come pick my stuff up, he has already bored and line honed the block. I went and looked at it, it looked good. I will still have to check with a bore guage to see if he used plates or not. I think he has plans to hit me with a big bill that I can't pay from talking to him. He is blaming everything on not being able to find a good crank. I found one no problem. Thinking of taking JWs idea and going with the 210S cam, anyone run this cam? I have the TA 1.65 rockers, just need some help with the springs. The cam I had was the TA hemi killer, was wondering if those springs will work till I get the gessler TA heads? ray:
Wow, what a terrible experience. If I were you I would get 3 quotes from Buick shops for the same work he has done and get ready for a small claims court show down. Even if it doesn't come to that I would take the paper with you to him when you pick your stuff up and ask him to justify why he is charging you 2 to 3 times more than fair market!
Did you inform him in writing to stop the work? If so, you owe him nothing and can prove it. I can't believe you haven't gotten your parts out of there yet. You're killing yourself. Devon
Yea I understand where your coming from Devon, but he already bored the block now. He said he didn't want me to make yhe mistake of not using the nice rods and pistons, like he cares. I have at least seen the block, and it did look nice. This has been a learning experiance for me:: If you have a buick send it to someone that does BUICKS, also check them out on here first. You guys are great
It looks like now would be a real bad time to piss the guy off. Maybe you should try and make the best of your situation if possible. Have you discussed the build with the guy. Does he understand that it's not a Chevy and that he can't build it with a lot of clearance in the rods and mains. If you haven't already done it get a print out of how the Buick is supposed to be done and let him know in order to get paid it has to be done right. Even though he is a druggy doesn't mean he don't know what he is doing but he needs to know the specs. Good Luck I hope you can work it out. Bob H.
I would tell him you are low on cash losing the house and your wife is leaving you, or your getting laid off in two weeks, whatever. Flip out about it. What ever this guy thinks you owe him talk him down and be done with it. Get your stuff out of there. Take the engine somewhere else rather than have to do it again. Smoked engines cost :dollar: :dollar: :dollar:. If your engine blows up it's your fault for not having the ba..s to get it out. Not saying it will happen but you will be better off sending it elsewhere. Good Luck! Ray
I would like to see you or anybody else for that matter walk into someones shop and take something out of there if they weren't willing to let you take it. Whether you own it or not that is just not the way its done. You would go straight to jail and you know it. All this tough talk is bullsh-t Telling the guy he has no balls if he doesn't go get his engine is not only disrespectful its stupid. Bob H.
Ok just got back from the shop. Everything looks great except he didn't 0 deck the block I asked him knowing he would get mad to deck it. He said too late the cam bearings and freezeplugs are in. The thing is I am totaly scared of this guy or I would have pulled the thing out of there, if I do try,he will do something crazy. Well I do have the TA 210SHL cam coming from a fellow board member, and while at the shop I let him call TA and order the 1125 springs,1450 retainers, locks, and seals. He did check my springs, the pressure was right but went into coil bind before they reached max lift. My block has stock deck height with stock rod length and TA SRP spherical dish pistons with 1973 head castings. Will I be at 10 to 1 compression? I doubt it. So guys looks like I will have it back in two weeks, he is assembling the short block and setting the heads up then shes mine again. I just hope it doesn't cost me allot of HP with the piston being 0.45 in the hole.
You can shoot for the thinnest gasket possible. Probably copper would be as thin as you can get. I don't think you can use the 70 steel gaskets? Bob H.
Thanks Bob I will go with the copper. Are there any special things that I need to do? I have never used copper head gaskets. It might not be exactly how I wanted it, but I think it should be a pretty nasty combo. Thanks for all your help on here, I will keep you posted on the whole project as it comes back to life.
I've never seen copper gaskets used without o-ringing the block, and it's too late for that. The thinnest composite gaskets you can get are Cometic brand, 0.027". See http://www.gesslerheadporting.com/g...2760b555140468a78525706f001aaf19!OpenDocument What's your combustion chamber volume? Devon
Last time I had a block decked it was $150. Felpro head gaskests are cheap. Cometics are more $ than a set of felpro's and having the block decked. Plus you will have the quench and compression needed for the cam you want to run. If your heads are 73's and have the air holes they need to be plugged and if they have the two center water ports at the middle of the heads on the joint face (the side of the head that mounts to the block) one needs to be blocked otherwise you will pour coolant into the lifter galley. Take it to a real machine shop that knows what they are doing as I said, and have the work done checked. Replace the cam bearings after the block is decked to what you need. With a .085"-.090" quench (deck height + head gasket thickness) you are asking for detonation. Have the block squared and get it down to .040", max .060", less is better. I might come off harsh but this is what is needed for an engine of the calibre you want. You have some premium parts in the shortblock. I have the same BTW in an 464. The 73's should be near 71cc's with stg1 valves. With a .030" cut 67cc. Ray
