alan Listen to larry as a tranny builder he knows and I know I learned along time ago that clearance between flex plate and converter is very important. I shoot for right a .100. I was told by my converter guy that the witness marks on the snout of the conerter showed perfect ingadment in the tranny so that is were I try to mantain it. As far a SP converters that turbo motor is most likely make more power than it can handle if it was a twelve second car it's one thing but that makes more power than it has shown I will bet you that. Get a holdof PTC converters and get a good converter. they are one of the best as far as i'm concerned and they do a great job of servicing them after the sale they will tune it up to get it perfect with out a issue. great guy's
I'm 99% sure it's an old KB converter. I'll look for numbers when it's out where I can look at it. The reason I say it ballooned is because the center hits before the lugs do, by about 1/8th of an inch. For the sake of argument, if it wasn't the converter, what else would have pushed the crank into the thrust bearing? o No: I'll know more when I pull the trans out. At this point, the SP trans isn't going back behind the turbo engine, but it sure was a kick in the tail going from high to low stall! Something I didn't think about was the flex plate. This is a solid flywheel that's not designed to flex. I'm not sure what the clearence for the torque converter should be with a non-flexable flexplate. My computer crashed, and this laptop won't let me attach pictures. When I can I'll post pictures of the bearings.
alan if the back of the thrust is wiped it is one or more of three things converter we already talked about. the other are excesive line pressure on big mistake guy do is increase line pressure to get a harder shift and tight hold on clutches. Good tranny guy's can do those things without super high pressures one of my old gse trannys they reduced line pressure and made adjustments other places to reduce drag inside the tranny. the other I have heard of is to long of a drive shaft pushing forward but that hurts the tranny also. Any way you look at it you need to get the tranny to a quailified tranny builder and it is best if they can check pressure on it before you get it back. Hope that helps I'm no tranny expert I pay guy's to be that but I have run the gamet with trannys from stock al the way to 2300 hp combos. We have had a couple trannys in the wagon to get it right
I built the trans myself a long time ago and put a ton of miles on it with no problems, so it's probably not line pressure. The yoke on the output of the trans is pulled out about 5/8 to 3/4 inch, and there is a GearVendors overdrive back there. So far I'm planning on making the oiling system better, going with a non-SP trans, and using better gauges/warning lights. (and getting this dad-burn computer fixed!!!!!)
i was told the am&p oil sump set up can lose its prime,not sure if they fixed it yet,just make sure you research your options well ken
ken as long as the line is run correctly or use's a one way valve it has no issue. we run them on everything and all the big motors we make have them on them. they are the answer to higher hp bearing issue we have not lost a bearing in years and my NA stock block motor sees a shift point at 7000 and thru the traps at 7300. It has seen 8000 several times with no issue.
Bobb, both sides look cooked, but the thrust surfaces aren't shot as bad as I expected compared to what happened with the ID. I've not seen an upper bearing beat that badly. I have little forced induction experience so I have no idea if that's a factor. You guys will know better and I'm curious about your thoughts. Head scratching here for sure. Devon
alan I find it odd the amount of wear in the front of that bearing and the heat it has seen what was the end play and how did you set it when building
Alan how do the others look are they fine. it really looks like lack of oil but why? the thrust is wiped but both sides which is kind of odd. look at the block very closely look for a crack in the casting going to the oil feed at the cam. or a crack from side to sideletting the main move and tighten things up. there is somthing goofy going on for sure but without looking and touching it it hard to really know for sure I can usually figure it out but I is hard on line. make sure before you reassemble you check alighn bore too. with the heat that crank saw it will be bent but i'm sure it needs to be ground so they will take care of that then.
That doesn't look like a boost issue to me it looks like a broken block to be honest maybe not but if everything else is good. I would really look hard at the block. Oil loose there if nothing lse is wrong is odd unless there is once again a broken block. I don't know I don't have all the answers for sure engines are a funny animal and some times do odd things that are hard to figure out.
It's been so long I don't remember! The crank is still in the block, but I should have it out in a few days (I goofed my back up over the weekend! :error: )
looks bad,after your new crank kit and oil mods i hope you send out the bearings and get them coated(after they have been dressed for installation) plan to up the oil pressure and volume and run 20w50,are the rods junk too?the block might be bad, maybe start over w/ a new one just to be safe,save this one for a spare with a big ? on it.what was done to this block?is hardblock and lifter bore/valley mods doable?i know thats the way id go for sure.boy a ballooned converter and boost who said buick blocks are weak!luck was also on your side even if you didnt think so ken
Rod #7 was goobered and has already been resized. The other rod bearings looked *ok* by comparison. The # 2 and 4 main bearings looked bad also, but the #2 main journal looked the worst. The block and crank have been checked for cracks, and the mains cleaned up at .020. (they were already .010). The rods should clean up at .010. I dropped the girdle off at the machine shop Friday, and they called later and left a voice mail. I won't know what else needs to be done until Monday. Does anyone know of an engine building log book available for download? If I can't find one, I'll make one using an Excel spread sheet.
It may have been a combination of things. It's never had an excess of oil pressure, and the clearances were set to the tight side. Bobb Makley suggested tying the front of the engine down on the drivers side, to take some of the stress off of the #2 main. It's going back together with an external oil pump, coated bearings, and increased clearances.
Alan I'm chasing a similar issue, #4 main upper shell is damaged and lower shell not as much. The crank is being checked this afternoon for a crack. Everything else seems to be just peachy. Thanks Rick
