Not sure if I am in the right spot but does anyone know this car?

I tend to agree but not everyone thinks like us &/or can take the time and ppl buy high $ cars all the time (BAT) w/o seeing them. @Ron Walker might be better off at least employing one of our WA members (@cjp69 would probably know who to contact) to check it out &/or even to be present when Lemon Squad looks looks it over.

 

So the Skylark would be the base car then the GS would be an upgrade package on the Skylark so body panels would be basically generic or a clean slate to put your own emblems back on if you put a new NOS body panel on. I have no idea of if/when a new fender was put on however would hope it was an NOS part for quality purposes as I have heard that AMD is the next closest to NOS rather than something offshore (Taiwan for example would make them using very thin gauge metal) and not sure when AMD came into business. If a used fender were put on it was probably found at a junkyard unless one of the previous owner(s) lucked out and found one in a classified add. I know you are only making observations to point things out which is greatly appreciated and not trying to discourage me from buying the car. The check is in the mail .
Here are a couple of side shots of the car from an article written in late November, 2021 under Live Auctions/Barn Finds stating the car is currently for sale in California: I can see the GS 455 emblem on the passenger side is a little closer to the side moulding/trim piece than on the driver side.

 

Being new here I thought this was strictly a forum and did not want to impose on anyone to accompany Lemon Squad during their inspection. With the inspection scheduled today it would be far to short a notice to co ordinate to have a member of this forum to be present during Lemon Squad's inspection.

 

Technically, from '68-on (67?), "GS" was a separate series (in '68-70 GS 350 & 455 were even separate). Prior it was an option on a Skylark. There were several versions of Skylarks as well and many different standard/optional trim/ornamentation.

There are no repro fenders (welcome to Buick). Probably never will be. If replaced, & I'm only going by the emblem location, was probably used which is actually good. The NOS all have their own issues but yes, they're a clean slate.

I assumed the article was from before it was painted & if so that might've told the story of when it was replaced. It'll have a date code if you're really curious which wouldn't be 100% conclusive if it happened to come off a car made around the same time but... If replaced it'd be a bonus if was a '70 fender but it's really not a big deal wrt the car's value/desirability.

I'd certainly offer/expect to pay someone on here for their time (whether they take the $ or not is another story) but it's a good group and things like that happen pretty regularly be it shuffling parts or looking at cars, etc.

 

The pictures supplied from the article have the car in black as it is currently, per firewall tag originally Burnished Brown. I assume the Buick purest would want OEM parts however that ship has sailed to get factory original from G.M. especially dating back to 1970. Isn't there a place in Wisconsin called Stage Won Restoration, not sure of the quality of parts they carry. Sounds like by joining this forum I have associated myself with some really great people. Have anyone on speed dial that lives about an hour North of Seattle?

 

There are several outfits that sell restoration supplies. Mostly the parts are the same. Year One, The Parts Place, Original Parts group are three that come to mind.

Generally most items that are reproduced are inferior to the original in my opinion. I worked on a restoration of 1969 Corvette where the owner had spent a fortune on these reproduction items, and I talked him out of using most of it.

Lots of info here. Try searching the forums. Maybe check your private messages too ;~)

 

I completely agree that restoration parts are inferior to original but like they say "they don't make 'em like the used to". I purchased a new set of bumpers for my 69 Camaro and when I when I went to put them on the car they were half the weight of the originals. The metal was so thin that when I put the original carriage bolts in the nut bottomed out on the square part of the bolt so had to use washers to shim it out until the nut would actually tighten up, good thing they were hidden behind the bumper. I looked at my inbox and no messages, it seems that when I get an e mail from V8 Buicks that will tell me someone has sent a message which prompts me to log in to V8 Buicks were I only see alerts. Once I click on alerts it takes me to all of my communications that have gone back and forth. Being new to this forum it will probably take me awhile to navigate the site. I thank you for giving me alternate names that handle restoration supplies. Have a good one.

 

Stage Won Restoration is a top notch parts supplier and they (Todd Miller) has lots of restoration knowledge and experience.

 

Thank you. I just got my Lemon Squad repot and there mostly minor issues with the car however few larger ones. Will speak to the owner and give him the option of fixing that bowed spot above the rear window and that the car was advertised as having positraction or dropping the price. I called a place nearby and was told it would cost a $1,000 to fix the roof if they had to also replace the back window

This 1970 Buick GS ran and drove with some other issues of note. The differential was tested and is not a posi-traction unit. On the exterior I noted some general misalignment to the body panels. There are minor misc scratches around the vehicle. Some too small to see in photos. There is a small ding on the drivers front fender. The paint presents well but shows some minor flaws such as bubbles, over spray and cracks, see photos. The underside shows areas of surface rust. See pictures. The reverse lights do not work. The top works but requires some extra effort to get the front hooks to latch. I noted a bowing of the material above the rear window. The top boot cover is brown and the foam is falling apart, so it was not put on. The body seals around the windows are showing signs of age and wear. This includes the doors, windows, trunk, and other miscellaneous body seals. Most will need replacement. I checked the vehicle with a magnet and found it to stick all around but was weaker in the lower panels. Not excessive.

Inside I noted there is light wear to the seats. The radio did not work. The fuel gauge does not appear to have a needle and the backlight would too dim when tested to show indications of working. The trunk shows some surface rust. I noted working climate controls. There was no smoke or odd odors inside.

There is a pool of coolant near the water pump. I noted full accessible fluids.

I found no issues on the test drive. The engine had plenty of power and there were no misfires or smoking. The transmission shifted as designed with no harsh engagement or slipping. The steering was responsive and the suspension was firm and the vehicle handled well. There were no abnormal vibrations or odd noises. The brakes were firm with no pulsation felt. The car has power drum brakes and not power disc as advertised.

TIRE CONDITION
Driver Front No Issues No Issues Passenger Front
Driver Rear No Issues No Issues Passenger Rear
WHEEL CONDITION
Driver Front No Issues No Issues Passenger Front
Driver Rear No Issues No Issues Passenger Rear
TIRE TREAD
Driver Front 12/32 12/32 Passenger Front
Driver Rear 12/32 11/32 Passenger Rear

 

The bowed spot above the back window looks normal to me on a car that has had the top down all summer. Mine does that as well. I now try to leave the top up if not in use for an extended period of time. Leaving the top up in the sun a few times seems to make mine better.

 

Thank for your response. With this car my plan would be to use it as a sunny day cruiser and always have the top down however if the sun should make it unbearable to drive with the top down or it should unexpectedly start to rain would put the top up and my thoughts are it would be somewhat embarrassing to be driving the car having that bow sticking out. When the car is not in use and in the garage I would always put the top up and put a car cover on just to protect from dust. When I spoke to a local auto upholstery shop and described the situation they said to re attach the top to the glass would be about $1500 parts included if new back glass were required. With the Lemon Squad's report that the car does not have Posi I also contacted the transmission shop that put the Posi in my Camaro where I was told on cars that old and with prices always fluctuating they said ballpark was $2,000. With reference to the picture of the armrest it appears that also needs to be replaced however not sure if Stage Won has then or can order them and at what cost. If you look at the picture of the piece spliced into the main brake line it is being held in place with a zip tie, although getting a proper clamp is an inexpensive fix when you take into account this observation as well the fix to the door panels was just driving more screws in it makes one wonder what other backyard mechanical half ass repairs were done to the car. I your opinion by looking at the picture of the dash portion to the left of the VIN plate would an entire new dash be required to make it right. Just wanting to run these thing by the guys on this forum to get any constructive advise/options on this car. Thank you

A few days ago one of the members of this site mention that Chris may know someone of experience from this forum who lives close to where the car is located that may be willing for a fee go out and put eyes on the car in order to supply a hands on observation. Even though I have had a mechanic and Lemon Squad look over the car there seems to be conflicting feedback from them. If you are the Chris they are referring to I thought I would bring that subject up as well.

 

The brake line to me looks bad beyond that split too. I would replace the whole line and probably the rest of them also if they are all that rusty. Also, as a "backyard mechanic" I resent that remark ;~)

 

Sorry, no offense intended.

 

None taken.

 

Agree re: brake lines. Replace 'em all along with the 3 rubber lines.

 

I am that Chris, unfortunately I am busy/out of town the next few weeks, so I can't go and look at it. I would recommend starting a new help wanted post in the Bench. Title it something like that "Need someone to look at a Buick for me in (insert city and state here)". And post a link to the ebay ad and / or this thread and offer to pay for someone's time and expenses to go and look at it. I have had a lot of good experiences doing this, both as someone looking for someone to check out a a car, and also has someone looking at a car for someone else.

 

Ron, I'm Todd (Ower of Stage1Restoration.com)
I don't claim to know everything there is to know about these cars (still learn something with every car we restore) but know enough to restore them to a Concours Gold level so if you need some parts, advice etc . . . . feel free to give me a shout.

We're located in Wisc and can help with any issues the car may have if needed.

I either have or can locate most if not all of the parts needed to fix anything that may be bothersome.

The big advantage we have over the other Vendors is the knowledge we've gained from owning, racing and restoring these cars for the last 30 years.

Let me know if I can help!

 

Thank you for your offer. At this point and by judging by the pictures supplied by the seller it appears a new pair of armrests (not sure if they can be purchased in singles and a pair of door panels all in dark saddle. Please note pictures attached and with reference to the picture of one of the cars armrests does that look right to you or is the armrest in need of replacement. With reference to the door panels technically they don't need changing however in the pictures you will see one of the previous owner's quick fixes to what I assume are warped door panels is to just drive more screws in. If you could respond with the prices for these items as well if any shipping costs as I reside in Winnipeg Manitoba.

 

The seller had indicated to me that the car spent most of it's life in California and Arizona. Would the severity of the brake line rusting be typical of California/Arizona weather as there would not be any snow/salted streets in those two states.

 

Shipping Costs are tough to do until we know the size of the Box and the Weight of the package. I can tell you that I charge "Exact Shipping". I mention that because a lot of dealers "Pad" there shipping fee's. Being in the shipping business for 23 + Years and knowing the cost of shipping it upsets me when I'm paying more than what it costs to ship something - therefore I charge my customers the exact amount. No more, no less. . . .

The Arm Rest Pads are only offered in Black so they would have to be "dyed" to match. You can see those on my website > https://www.stage1restoration.com/product/arm-rest-pads-16/

Door Panels we get from Legendary however they are currently 9 to 11 months behind on orders. Prices vary depending on if you want assembled or not. $450 to $570 ish range . . . (I'm below retail on what ever set you choose) They'll drop ship them right to you once ordered and ready to go.