No pulse on coil

So went to crank up the wildcat & no spark and I believe I am wired up correctly. I have added sniper efi, voltage regulator eliminator kit and JW added eccel point eliminator under stock distributor. This engine ran as is on the test stand with a carburetor.

Short story I have no pulse on the negative side of the coil which is a flame thrower unit. I don’t believe I ran the engine on the stand with this coil, and now I am suspicious of it? the stock one was ugly so bought this black 1.5 ohm coil, maybe I will go find the original coil it ran on.

The Holley sniper comes with lots of wires but surprisingly simple and really only a few wires needed to get it going. I don’t believe my electrical no spark issue relates to Efi.

Any ideas would be appreciated,

ps I am assuming the distributor is turning but will check that now.

Gord

 

Make sure you have 12V power to coil when you turn the key to start as well as in run position. If so I would try a different coil.

 

Can you take a resistance reading across the coil + and - leads? It should show 1.5 ohms.

Also, if you place a coil lead and near a grounded metal part, then you can touch 12 to the coil positive side briefly and it should spark to the ground from the coil.

That should help eliminate or confirm the coil source of problem.

 

Yes I have 12 volts to both sides of the coil when key on and cranking, I found my old coil but I think the studs turned because the nuts where seized so it might be toast anyway. Will test the new coil tomorrow and then test the accel module. I just can’t believe the accel module is defective but will test to confirm. Figured I would have a fuel problem with the sniper but that was fairly straightforward, didn’t see a no spark issue coming.

 

Found this from google...

If you have power to the coil, hold the pointer of your light to the negative side of the coil while your assistant cranks the engine. Your light should flash on and off as the engine spins over, telling you that the switching mechanism in the distributor is working. (This is true whether the car has points or an electronic ignition.)

If the light glows steady or not at all, it’s time to get into the distributor. If working with a positive-ground car, don’t forget to switch the polarity on this test procedure as well.

To determine why your distributor isn’t providing the switching for the coil, you’ll need to get out the manual for your car or ignition system (if it’s an aftermarket system) to go through the testing procedure for your points or electronic switching mechanism.

 

Coil checked out ok, 1.6 ohms. So the accel point eliminator is toast, probably had an hour on it, maybe I fried it somehow? I was expecting it to have a magnetic pickup but looks to be optical.

 

I just replaced the Pertonix Igniter III module and Flamethrower III coil in my car with a FAST module and their PS20 coil, along with a MSD 6AL. Runs fantastic, way better that it has to date.

 

You are correct. I have the Accel and it shines a light through a shutter wheel to determine when to trigger the spark, similar to the Unilite. I had the Pertonix and it uses the magnet wheel. The Accel unit seems to not be the made from the most durable materials, especially that wheel. Famous for becoming brittle with age and falling apart like mine did, and when it did, the engine started backfiring and running like crap, eventually unable to keep running at all. It IS possible to fry the light emitter box, if you run it without a ballast resistor, according to the instructions (in-line stock resistor is OK if you have one in your harness). You can get replacement shutter wheels from the Mallory clone of the Accel, for about $15, or you can buy an entire new unit that looks just like the Accel but is made in China, for about $25-$30. I just went back to points because my engine started running bad again, and I wanted to rule out the Accel as being the problem. Not the cause this time, it still runs bad, so I am still trouble shooting. But eventually I will probably do like Rich, and spend the big bucks to get an MSD.

 

Before I run an MSD I want get get the car running with the sniper unit before I add more wiring, I will have to check into the resistor but I will probably go with a different pointless system for now
Maybe the light bulb burnt out on my accel unit lol...

 

I probably should have added that I also purchased a remanufactured Buick 1112110 distributor, as well. I just took it apart and made sure everything was lubricated properly. Glad I did as the remanufactured distributor was missing the felt washer. The original distributor had way too much end play, and was most likely part of the tuning issues that I was having. I installed the FAST module and modified Crane adjustable vacuum advance in it, installed a 12V supply wire in the engine harness, along with the coil and MSD box, all at the same time.

From time to time, MSD sells refurbished products, that are great deals. I got the 6AL box for $200.00, from their eBay store.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Factory-Re...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

 

Todd sells the lectric units unfortunately where I live I can only get a Petronix overnight, so that’s what’s going in for now Got to get this thing fired up asap

 

Car is running, installed the petronix and realized I screwed up on the wiring to the coil and fried the Accel point eliminator. My mistake I guess I got my wires crossed but onto brakes on other fun stuff, the COVID cat will be on the road soon.

 

so, another update, I finally figured out I never had a timing light on the engine, and realized when you gave to much timing in the engine and it backfires through carb while cranking well thats going to cost you a new starter, education always costs. The cat finally left its lair and was scratching to get out