Marc, you wrote: "So we ran some of the numbers on it, it looks like they numerated blocks differently on Canadian production cars. It looks like it is an MW block, but the individual numbers are missing. The previous owner told me that the original owner said that it was a special order car, and that the 425 was never in Canadian production cars. I kinda doubt that. At any rate, the rest of the numbers seem to jive, so we do have an original car." The 425 was available on Canada built cars but in the Canadian sales lit they called the optional single 4 barrel 425 the "Super Wildcat"...differing from US built cars where the Super Wildcat was the dual quad version available after March `66. Here in The States it`s pretty unusual to find the optional 425 in `66 Wcats that are not GS versions so I would imagine your car is very, very unusual for a Canada car. Tom Mooney
Hi Marc, You wrote: "Now have to locate armrests; the plastic chrome has crazed and faded in the heat, and the cigarette residue has eaten away at some of the upper chrome layers." Can you post a couple of pics of the interior? I`m now wondering if Canada built Wildcats have a mix of US Electra armrest parts?? Tom
Hi Tom, I used to think that 66 Buicks were boring; - that they were a third year evolution of a 1964 design and a warmed over concept. I've since changed my mind, and I like the 66 the best out of all of them. I'm really beginning to like this car. It really is a low miler, but it's unfortunate that it's the rustiest one I've ever seen. I wish the original owners would have taken better care of it. There is something to be said about the preservative qualities of tobacco smoke though, compared to my 66 Electra, this interior cleaned up far better and is in much nicer condition. I put the missing trim strip on the front driver's door, and while it completes the look, it was just a reminder of how sad this car actually is. It looks great as a 20 footer now. But get up close, and there's a lot of lower fender rust, hail damage, dents, scrapes, and horribly faded paint. I'm still trying to buff out what's left, and it's coming, but very slowly. I'd love to repair this car with metal, and you'd think it would be easy because most of it is straight lines. The lower rear quarters below the trim line are gone at all 4 points. The trunk is shot aft of the wheel tubs and the body mounts are gone. So what seems to have happened is this car spent it's whole life on gravel and dirt and where ever the mud could pack in it rusted out. The floors and rockers are solid though, go figure. The chrome is in lovely original condition and just needs some steel wool and a polish. I got the interior cleaned up yesterday, it took quite a bit of scrubbing to get the old smoke out of it. It cleaned up beautifully, it really looks like a low mile car. I've uploaded some pictures below. The armrests are pretty typical, I assume they're the same as the American ones. The chrome has come off these, it literally wiped off with Spray-9 cleaner. Now I have to figure out a way to clean the headliner, it's felt covered cardboard, or at least that's what it looks like, I've never seen that in a Buick before. It's in good shape, it's all straight, but it's a bit discoloured due to cigarette smoke. So I was able to buy a new driver's door armrest, but the white foam pad part is gone. Now just waiting for the fuel pump to get here, and then I'll case the engine out. It still has the original date-coded wires on the plugs, and there are a lot of original tower clamps still there. If the motor is sound, then I'll fix the rest of the mechanical issues I find. Until then though, I'll just clean up what I have. Believe it or not, the car doesn't even leak. There isn't a drop of anything on the ground...yet. Wish I could claim the same about the rust that's falling off. On the cowl is a hand-scrawled "46639" in yellow wax pencil or something. Have to figure out how to preserve that and clean up around it without it coming off. I'll shoot pictures of that later. Before being cleaned, the armrests still have their chrome on them, that came off with the cleaner. The pad took a bit of scrubbing, most came off, but the pad is still stained. After, the only thing I haven't got rid of is the wad of gum on the gas pedal. Not sure what to do there. It's got to be 40 years old. The steering wheel is the best one I've ever seen in a 66 Buick. (You guys in the US don't realize how lucky you have it, it's impossible to see an American vehicle built in the 60s without a cracked up wheel here) It's cracked, but not as bad as most and the chrome insert around the inner wheel is still there. At least I have an idea of what it's all supposed to look like now. Check out how little wear there is on the brake pedal. If it wasn't for the cracks on the driver's seat, the interior would be perfect. Is there anything I can do to just fix that? The vinyl isn't too crusty. The rear; - check out that headliner!
Also 2wd 1/2 ton chevys trucks and vans through the 90s have a 5x5" bolt pattern. I can't comment on the hub diameter though.
Hi Marc, Yes, you interior armrests are the same as US built...maybe I saw Electra style armrests in a `65 Canada Wcat? Anyway, the front armrests are available in repro...think I payed about $60 for a pair. The headliner is cardboard sections covered in felt. If the cardboard is still in good shape you should be able to cover them in a material that is close to original at very little cost. The rust you are describing sounds very typical, generally the rockers and floors hold up well even when the lower exterior sheetmetal is shot. Tom P.S. BTW...the wheel covers pictured are not the correct `66 Wcat covers...you might want to consider a set of the original covers, they are generally not expensive and are more distictive compared to what is on the car.
Hi Tom, That's what I thought. These are 67 caps, I think. I'm looking for a nice set of road wheels, I really don't like hubcaps anymore. After fighting with these, I've had my fill of them. So rear armrests are not available yet? I have a new front one on order, the driver's side one was completely destroyed and the elbow pad is missing. I have to find a new one of those. Do you know of anyone who makes rear body mount floor sections? I might have to get those properly fixed in order to pass a safety.
I've used WD-40 to remove gum. Maybe you can disassemble the gas pedal and soak it in some to see if it will loosen it's grip.
Tom, was the cardboard and felt headliner standard on the Wildcat "Custom" model? My Pops 66 Wildcat was a standard post car and had the usual cloth/vinyl hybrid setup and same as my 66 Skylark GS. Also wondering what the air cleaner lid labeling was. Was it the standard Wildcat 465? Maby Marc can take some more pics
Marc, I dont know of anyone who is doing the rear armrests for the 4 Dr Hdtp in repro...I was considering having mine replated. Also, I am not aware of a repro trunk pan. Tom
Hi Peter, Yes, I believe the felt covered cardboard was with the custom interior...although the only standard interior Wcat I`ve ever owned was a convert so I could be wrong. I have a Canadian salesman`s book so that`s how I know they called the 4 barrel 425 Super Wildcat but there is not any info about aircleaner labeling...and I didnt take note of the labeling on the few Canadian built 425`s Ive seen over the years. Tom
The air cleaner label is the standard one, " Wildcat 465". I'll take some more pictures once I get back under the hood. The fuel pump arrived today, so sometime this week if I get the time I'll get back out there and I'll photograph the engine bay. It's pretty much original down to the date-coded plug wires and skinny belts. It's also dirty, I would have wanted to spiff it up a bit, but the first act will be one of preservation.
Didn't get a chance to do anything with the car this week; - the boy ended up getting pretty sick. Luckily it's not Covid, but until the test results came back, we weren't sure. The plan for next weekend is to replace the fuel pump, and start going through the engine like it was a revival. Then, get it on the scope (I do have one of those big old Behr (Bear?) Tune up machines from the late 70s) This way he can get some scope time and play with an oscilloscope. Once the motor is figured out, then we'll dive into the front suspension and brakes.
Hi Marc, In the October 2020 Buick Bugle on page 22 there is a feature car article which is a `66 Wildcat 4 dr hdtp which was built in Canada. The car has the custom cloth and vinyl interior and the front door armrests are definitely "Electra like" and much different as compared to the US version and yours. Great article and a great looking Wcat. Tom Mooney
Hi Tom, Does that include the Aluminum drums? Driving this thing the few miles that I did was hair-raising because of the vibration when I hit the brakes, I'm thinking the front drum linings are separating. I do still have a used set that I've schlepped around for the past 30 years but I'm not sure what condition they are in either or what they're originally off of.
OK; so we finally got out and did some more work on this thing. The fuel pump arrived and I put it in. As is usual with fuel pumps, - no 2 are fed exactly the same way. So this one will require a different fitting to be 100% safe, right now the fuel line clears the belts but only by 1/2 inch. But the car runs again and is leak free. So we went after the motor today, and I'm impressed. A vacuum gauge indicated that there are no valvetrain or piston ring clearance issues. There is no blow-by when hot, and no leaks. The engine ticks a bit, but that goes away once warm. It needs an oil change, which it will get when we go underneath. The plugs are a Delco 43S, and they are in fantastic condition. If I had a borescope I'd look inside the cylinders, but the plugs indicate that things are burning well. It will need new wires, going to order dated coded replacements. The carb isn't leaking, yet. It's an early Quad, and it seems to work OK, but I'm not sure the 4 barrels are completely there yet. The throttle response on the motor is excellent. The carb will likely need a rebuild, and lo and behold, I found that I still have a kit for that carb; - nice! Once we got finished with the motor checks, it was time for a quick drive. The car handled well enough on crappy tires, it did stop, but there's definitely something not right in the front brakes. The funny thing is they pull evenly but chatter. Can hear a bit of clanking and they engage too. Springs are complaining, no doubt. I'm very impressed with how that thing rides, it's like new. The shocks and springs are in great order. It handled well too; - it must have been I was driving with a low or nearly flat tire the first time, because this time with a real tire on the back the car felt good, almost as tight as the Electra. The only complaint is the power isn't quite there. As I said, I don't know if the 4 barrels are coming on. The motor revs up nicely, but the transmission is a bit sticky, It moves and shifts, but when you step into it it doesn't pull as hard as I would expect. The switch-pitch seems to be working, - it makes the right noises, but is a bit laggardly. So the tranny needs a dump and a filter, and then possibly a good check up. It could be the modulator is all gummed up, I have no idea yet. There's also the fact that I really didn't want to walk on it in a residential zone. Next week we'll start tackling the front end. I still haven't located any wheels for it yet. And those hubcaps are really pissing me off. Here are some underhood shots. This engine is as original as it gets. Yes, it's still greasy. We'll detail it up later. The waterpump and the front timing cover will likely have to come off, the timing chain is a little slack but nothing serious, but it might have something to do with the power issue. But it likely has the neoprene Camshaft gear in it and for all I know it could be shedding teeth which will make it slack. Check out the chalking from the factory on the firewall. The firewall is body colour, typical for a Canadian car. Any ideas as to how to clean this up without removing the numbers? Had no idea that the boosters had "Bendix" stickers on them! The aircleaner is like the American one; the original transfers are still on there and complete. Does anyone know how to interpret cowl tags?
Is the carb a Quadrajet or that other weird Rochester four barrel? (I have one of those off a ‘66 Electra that was turned in as a core 20 years ago. It was too cool to send in so I paid the core out of pocket ($20?) and kept it). Patrick
Marc, Get the idea of those date coded wires out of your head. There are GARBAGE!!!! A 1/2" clearance on the belts is plenty as long while the vehicle is running it doesn't flop around with some RPM's. An oil change with 15/40 & a pint or so of ATF should clean the lifter & may just stop the ticky's. Change the oil only when it's hot as a lot of garbage will still be in suspension. Fill the filter with oil before spinning on so you don't start it dry. Get an endoscope. You use your laptop. I think the price now is about $20.00 I have model #HD720P. Google it. Get the shorter one has much better resolution & is BETTER than a boroscope in my mind. The drums can be turned to a Max. of .090". IF the trans. is shifting correctly at normal throttle the modulator valve should be OK. Check the hose at the manifold & at the modulator valve & replace IF there are any doubts. Tom T.
Thanks Tom! I had no idea the date-coded ones were lousy, - Ok, that ends that then. The car had a "fresh" 10W-30 oil change last spring I'm told, it was clean when I started it at the seller's place, and jet black when I got home 6 miles later. It's likely going to need a couple more changes before it'll stop ticking. And yes, it wants Zinc. I haven't checked the modulator line yet, but there's a very good chance it's rusted out. I'll look into the endoscope idea. I have to see if we have an old laptop around here to drive one. Thanks for the info on the drums; - I have a set of used spares here, not sure what they were originally off of, but they are for a full-size, just no idea what year. I will scope out the originals when I get it apart. Hopefully it's just glazed shoes and old age doing this. I might be in touch for more bits yet; see what kind of shopping list turns up when I take it apart.
So; - a little update. Have been pretty busy as of late, so the poor car has sat neglected. Nice thing is it's pretty water-tight, the interior is still clean, and everything still works. It fired right up and held an idle; - I'm very impressed. It's telling me it wants to live. All my attempts to find parts (brake parts) up here in Canada have turned to naught. Should have known. So it's going to be Rock Auto and taking chances with Chinese made repops. Oh well. Did a much needed oil change, checked the antifreeze, and did a grease job on the front end. showed my son how to do all of that. He was under the car with me and everything. While underneath, we had a good look at the undercarriage, - the floors are amazing; - no sign of rust at all. There's paint there. The frame is nice too. The muffler is toast, there's a flap hanging from it, but the rest of the pipe is still remarkably solid. The shocks look like they're heavy duty Monroes from the 80s. The brake lines are showing no wear, but we're going to replace them anyway, just for safety's sake. The chassis took grease, and it's tight. After this was over, we decided to go for a quick drive and check for leaks. The engine felt better, it was running smoother, and it was tight; - it felt better than the Electra! The grease job did wonders for the steering, it felt good, it definitely needed it. The car was running fantastic, -- and then a very familiar and sickening smell, the windshield started to fog, and it was confirmed, the heater core had decided to leak. I had a feeling, and kinda knew that was coming. Better now than later once the car is operational, and better only a block from home than somewhere in BC or someplace remote. So we got it home and parked it, - luckily it's draining outside the cowl and not in the carpet. Now at least I'll get a chance to clean up the vents and get all the cables working properly. Gotta take something positive out of this.
