??????? Then why do some ring package start with the tap ring that actually overlap......you might have to cut. 02-.03 off these depending on bore. I would stick with iron rings not moly, they do have a better wear in on cylinder walls like yours I could be wrong.......but if you get a set of stk or even .010 ring you should be able to file fit them. The oil rings are the hardest in my opinion....but most custom fit ring pack I've done.....which isn't tons.....say they want a minimum of .015 on the oil rings, but are often .025-.035 right out of the box.........so with .010 or standard ring you might not have tons of work there....... Your will to accept the results of budget refresh.......so its not like everything has to be top notch 100% perfect here on the rings......I would aim for the tops having .018-.022 gap, the seconds a slightly tick more than the top, and the oils at least .015, and you should be ok..........thats what I would do in your shoes.......its not perfect, but at least you know the side clearances should be right.......given it had a home hone, its not going to have 100% seal anyways.
So I ordered these. Not the exact part number, but they should be close https://www.amazon.com/Hastings-2M695030-8-Cylinder-Piston-Ring/dp/B000C3B5EA
What was the top gap? The rings when measured must be "perfectly" square with the deck. That is a 4.330"ring you ordered. Stock 455 bore is 4.3125. Btw a .001" larger bore equals .003" larger ring gap on a smaller 4.00" bore. You may need to get 4.340" rings to make the proper gap and file if needed. Did you take a bore measurement? Ray
update for anyone that cares. i went out and bought a dial bore gage as per the tech support at total seal. found out that my engine is indeed .30 overbore. not sure why the guy at the machine shop told me the pistons are for a .20 overbore. i guess experts can be wrong sometimes.
Glad you found out the actual bore . This was a very informative thread and I am glad I read it before I start the the assembly of my freshly machined 400 block and parts. Thanks to all that contributed.
update, the engine is back together. went to start it and it is turning over with a lot of difficulty. is this because of the brand new rings? it doesnt seem right, im thinking of taking it to a local speed shop. im kind of scared. i feel like i did everything right, but something just seems off. (maybe im being paranoid, i always get overly nervous at initial start up)
What type of torque wrench are you using? You need a beam style or maybe a dial type. Remember, break away torque will be higher than rotating torque. If you use a dial type, ignore the max torque needle, just watch the actual torque while turning.
Awe come on, just flip it upside down, remove the pan and all the rod caps to see if the rods are reversed.
Sean Buick 76.. i dont think i could have installed any rods backwards, i didnt take the pistons off of the rods, and if they are backwards i would be smashing the pistons on the valves (i have valve relief slots in the pistons). today i took the oil pan off to see if i installed any rod caps backwards, and they are all correct. so the question now is, why is my engine turning over so hard? One thing i noticed, when i drained the oil i had quite a bit of water in the pan (so i guess its a good thing it didnt start. i believe that this happened when i removed the intake after i put everything back together because i wanted to recoat the cam with assembly lube (yes that was a mistake). would all that water in the pan make it hard to spin?? or could the because of the new rings and fresh honed cylinders? P.S The car wouldn't start because with the fuel injection system, if it doesn't sense enough RPM it wont trigger the fuel injection to start.
Do u have crazy heavy valve springs......they can make a motor hard to roll over..........if shaft style rockers pull them off to see if easier..........is this still on the stand or in the car
Bens99gtp... i do have TA Dual springs, i also have TA roller rockers (1.65?), now, i didnt readjust the valves when i reinstalled them, i put them back on the side they came off of, so i didnt think i needed to. yes it is still in the car
i talked to the tech guy at total seal pistons, and he did say that new rings will be tight until they get to operating temperature
