been reading about using 30 wt non detergent with a zddp additive, a think the 30 wt bothers me more then the non detergent. what's the opinions out there about 30 wt and non-detergent oil ? just for break in only.
Nailheads were fed 30 weight from mama's oil spout when born. The Driven break in is perfect, has ZDDP, is straight mineral oil (no extra slippery stuff) and non-detergent, so it is not preventing the ZDDP from doing it's thing to the the metal faces where it needs to work. It might seem a bit much to toss $75 on oil and filter for a 30 minute run, but considering a proper nailhead rebuild is nearly a 100x that, I never look at my wallet twice. (then I run the HR2 for 500 miles, and toss it an that 2nd filter in the same pile.)
I would use standard 30w non detergent motor oil for break in back in the day. Probably would still do that today.
I don't know about EOS plus that oil. Might be too much: "Too much ZDDP can do almost as much harm than not enough. High levels of ZDDP can begin clogging the lubricant-carrying crevices in the cylinder wall, which can then cause the engine to burn oil. If you have too much ZDDP, you start to see corrosive wear and cause another problem. Adding an excess causes the oil to become acidic, and before you know, you're wearing cams, bearings and bushings because of too much ZDDP" from the web. Other opinions?
ZDDP affects the surface molecular structure, so "too much" for break in, followed by "normal" oil that contains the higher levels will be fine. (the protection is temporary, if you stop using ZDDP oil, you will lose the benefit). Running a high content oil and adding extra, would be, not so gooder. Most people are not going to be pulling hard to seat rings until after breaking in a cam (30 minutes and drain/replace filter), And the oils with high ZDDP, typically have detergents, so the seating of rings should not be a problem. I use the Joe Gibb's Driven break in, and the HR2 after. Other similar oils are fine.
Probably made from the best snakes in the world. Use good quality oil, filter and perform proper maintenance intervals. (edited to clarify: For in service engine. ) Yeah, it's not a sexy and does not boost one's ego, but it has worked on billions of cars for trillions of years. Simply adding "stuff" (even if it is "good stuff") to oil/engine does not mean it is effective, and some things can actually be detrimental, but the company selling the stuff is still making money if someone's results are bad. I realize it is "Cap'n Obvious" info, so salt or no salt.
Most off the shelf oils these days are not suitable for breaking in a flat tappet cam. Cars now have roller lifters.... I would at least use VR1, Joe Gibbs or Brad Penn but spending a little extra for a specifically designed break-in oil is good insurance IMO.
Break in is something you only want to do once. Buy an oil made for that purpose. https://drivenracingoil.com/i-30497749-br-30-5w-30-conventional-break-in-oil.html
Interesting article from Hot Rod Feb 23: https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/diesel-oil-in-gasoline-engine/
Thank you for asking. New machine shop found that an oil plug converted to a screw in type had been contacting the cam gear, turning my oil into shavings city, and that is what trashed the cam and crank bearings. The cylinders got a light hone and cast rings. Car doesn't smoke anymore. $1800 later for an engine that was guaranteed against anything but leaks... and it did leak. Got to drive it two weeks ago in good weather.
Sounds like the front galley plugs described in post #3 in the oil mods thread, https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/400-430-455-block-id-prep-and-oiling-mods.214613/ Jim points out that they have to be flush with the face of the block, and they can't be too deep, especially on the passenger side.
