I have ordered a few sets of mounts to compare the quality and will consider this issue. 8.5" from fac of block to outside face of bracket? thanks for help boys.
I can't measure because I can't find a measuring device but I just went out and took some pics. I can't see how your Z bar will not jump out of the slot in the frame bracket the way you have it installed. Or wear out prematurely pivoting the way you have it installed. You'll either need to slot or bend your bracket to get some adjustability to make it look like mine. I think it'll fix your geometry issues. In the first pic the stud is not angled back like your looks. My Z bar is pointing down towards the frame from the motor. The second pic shows the threaded stud is actually straight.
Fellers, thanks for the help and keep it up. I am heading out with the family for a bite to eat and will reply back tonight to your hepful input. I will check the frame bracket which looked off since day one, but, bolted right into the stamped factory holes in the frame. Follow up item.....:TU: My short term plan for this weekend: 1) drop hood, mirrors, trunklid w/ spoiler off at my painter to match the body so we don't look ghetto for the summer<- $idebar :TU: 2) remove clutch parts from flywheel, confirm ID" of pilot bushing needs hone, hone said bushing, reinstall everything and check clutch / geometry. 3) ....? 4) finish power windows 5) rough in carpet kit 6) DRINK HEAVILY I wouldn't trade my problems with anyone.....
Dremel has a sanding drum that is the perfect size to slip into a bronze pilot bushing to enlarge the I.D. Just keep it straight and go slow.
Yes I tried one of these first, the I.D. was reduced on it as well upon installation. It was a real you know what to get out. I would never use one again. The bearing failure possibilty compaired to other than just wearing out the bronze is not worth it. I think the bronze will outlast the bearing kind anyway. Plus the damage that would occur if the bearings siezed to the input shaft.
I thought I pre-empted the problem of the collapsed bushing by honing the bore in the crank out a bit after I measured the OD of the bushing and ID of the crank bore . I left the bore a bit tight for the bushing, but obviously too tight. The bearing was tight to start but pounded in, as previously described, "a bit harder" than I was comfortable with but once it was started and going in I [ASSuMEd] it was good to go ou:
I used a roller unit I purchased from NAPA, looked like a real nice piece! The OD had to be machined down slightly before installing. So far so good, but my car has only been moved foward and backwards in the garage. Hopefully I will get to go around block in it this weekend! :3gears: Almost ready for BG. :kodak:
Mark, it was almost a year ago, so I cannot recall exactly. A buddy came over to help me figure it out once I started getting frustrated. We measured the ID of the crank and the OD of the bushing, then took a slight bit of material off, it was not that much. Before we drove the bushing into the crank, I put it in the freezer overnight, seemed to tap in nicely when frozen. I should have known something was wrong when the first bushing I tried to install was almost impossible to get started into the crank. Sorry I cannot remember. After pilot bushing is installed in the crankshaft, don't forget to test fit the input shaft in the bushing before clutch and bellhousing install. Good luck!
:TU: thanks Jeff, I froze the bearing but simply did not match the crank ID to the bushing OD properly:spank: And you can rest assured the trans will be test fit before the clutch goes back on. Thanks, Mark
Seems like another good thread to update... 1) Parts at Paint shop, pick up next Saturday 2) clutch out, bearing ID honed & tranny slides in nice; just waiting on 1970 Muncie shift fork / linkage lever inserts for the trans now 3) rear power windows in, drivers door off, drilled and wired, just need to finish pass door. All hooked up on fuse block and tets ok. I am replacing hinges bushing kits while the doors are off- had them for 15 years.. 4) final fit to floor indent of rear wire harness looom since power windows are now in; no need to fuss with carpet kit until trnas is done; it's been laying flat now for a month in the heasted office of the shop. 5) cocktails as planned to soothe the aches and pains
I machined one down about .010 to match the ID of the crank when I first did my motor. It went in easier than before machining but still had to be hammered in. When I pulled the tranny to put the M22 in, this pilot bushing came out in 4 pieces. The lastest one was just pounded in, not machined and I greased the input shaft. Went in tight but I haven't had a problem in two years.
:grin: ....row, row, row, the gears, gently down the street. The sun finnally poked out for a couple hours and dried out the roads just in time for a quick fix of the gear dope....:3gears: Off to birthday dinner- the 11 year old daughter is a Cinco de Mayo baby; oh Lord!
Congrats, fun stuff indeed. I went around the block last weekend for the first time in two years since taking the car apart. Boy what fun....:3gears:
