lol... ??? Where was this ever stated? There are no numbers to tell when and where a rear will blow. A 100hp motor can blow a rear. Torque and how it is delivered will usually doom a differential. You could get stuck in the snow, over heat the rear and it will blow. ALL depends. Most rears that blow are because of what Brian said... Maintenance... clean it out put new bearings freshen it up and that is your best way to keep them alive and kicking. Posi unit should be removed disassemble and check to see if it has bottomed out and how much life might be left in the unit. I can check and rebuild the unit if you need all you need to do is send it... 50.00 minimum 150.00 maximum on that . I use kerosene to clean the parts as it leaves a oil film on the parts especially if i have to store the parts. Gas to me is too volatile and really stinks bad. Nice 5 gallon pail and a brush will work nice ... air compressor is a good friend to blow off the parts .. Maybe a 2 bucket system first one for the wash and the second for the rinse clean deal... Use your imagination. play Jim J D
If you are cleaning it yourself,paint thinner works real good at cutting the old oil off of everything. That old oil clings to everything,and since it was left open,now it has dirt and debris stuck to everything. Strip the housing down completely. Remove all of the bearing races and seals. Make note of your carrier shims,as they are almost always different thickness on each side,and you would want to put them back on the side that they came from,if you reinstall the original gears and posi back in. Having Jim service the posi would be a good idea. What are you plans and intentions with your car? That might determine if this rear is good for your application.
I would be more than happy to have you go through and rebuild this rear for me but it weighs like 100 lbs. shipping would be nuts. What zip are you in?
This was an extra axle that came with a project 68 chevelle that i bought completely disassembled. Just a van load of parts and vin number. It looks like the last guy was going to use this rear but didnt put it in yet. He gave me a 454 they picked out to use. He said it was bone stock. Its not. I stuck a borehole camera all throughout the engine. It is a 1974 454 block. The heads are from a 1969 396ci closed chamber 101cc. The pistons had their serial numbers on them. They are stock. So, this engine is basically a stock corvette engine. In 1969 and 1970,the rated horsepower was 425. Im thinking of replacing the 396ci heads with aluminum ones with bigger valves and a slightly taller cam. Probably will make 560hp. I wonder if this axle will handle it? Other forums say this axle has larger bearings than a ford 9”. Has no c clips and the pinion gear is low on the ring gear for better contact? But another forum said that the housings on these axles are weak like grey iron or something? Im never taking this car to the drag strip. Just going to do a few burnouts to get it out of my system and show off.
Dont know weather to use this rear with the 560hp or sell my first born and get a 12 bolt.im just going to clown around with the car. Never had a vehicle that can spin its tires.
By 69-70 standards 425 HP then is maybe 425 -20% (340Hp) by post 71 standards. This is when the SAE changed from the SAE gross used prior to 72 went to the SAE net standard used today.
NO i THINK YOU MISUNDERSTOOD. jUST THE LIMITED SLIP POSI UNIT...not THE WHOLE REAR END. jIM Oh Man... caps are on... not yelling sorry. Jim
As far as burn out s go. I have seen more car and truck rears break because of LACK of power to spin the rear tires. People try so hard to make the tires spin nin the rear with a car that really can not get the job done and that puts crazy stress on the whole drive line making old stressed out parts break. Better to have crazy torque break the tires loose quick and easy .... The track provides the stick and the slicks help even more making the stress on the parts having to launch the 3500 - 4000 + pounds from a dead stop. So yes if your just playing on the non sticky street ...regular radial street tires HP and torque are really a moot point.... THE type of road you try to burn out on could cause issues like chuck holes gravel to pavement shots etc. those are shocking to the driveline parts too. Nice flat smooth paved surface like parking lots and newly paved roads work really well for stress free burn outs. Have fun. Jim J D
I tried sending you a private message. I dont know how to do it on this forum to price the used pair of axle/bearing/retainer.
That rear would be better than the 8.2” Chevy,and you already own it. If you can find an 8.5” 10-bolt,out of a 71-72 Skylark/GS,or 71-72 Cutlass/442,I would suggest building that. I prefer that over a 12-bolt Chevy. I could also build you one. Possibly sell that rear,or the guts. It could work for what you are doing though,as long as you get the unit serviced.
l In the chevelle is the original Chevy 8.2” non posi with C-clips. Would the axles from that fit the buick? I havent taken them out. Dont know if they would be the same 28 spline or not?
No,you can’t put the Chevy c-clip axles into a non c-clip style rear like that. I did get your message. I have one shaft ready to go. I need to check my parts for another one to make a pair.
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