my official "NOW WHAT" thread! 455 swap edition

so ive been collecting parts for the last four months or so for this 455 swap, and im almost at the end of the journey. had i known it would have taken four months, i wouldnt have been so eager to tear down my running 350 :spank: rookie mistake i suppose.

now, as i get closer, i find myself asking the question "now what?". here is the state of the project and what i think i have left to do.

what i have:
30 over 71-72 455 stock rebuild
b4b intake
timing cover
new oil pump kit and thrust plate
hei distributor
alternator brackets
alternator
power steering bracket
power steering pump
t/a valve covers (on the way)
poston headers (on the way)
800 cfm q-jet built to stage one specs (diaphragm busted during shipping)
damper
flex plate
cleaned up and freshly sealed th-350
torque converter
crank pulley
timing kit
intake bolts
carburetor bolts
timing cover bolts
motor mounts
frame pads

what i still need

water pump
assemble the oil pump (im a little nervous about doing this myself)
wire up the hei (another tricky thing for a newb ou: )
replace the busted diaphragm on the carb

i think that about sums it up. its a long process and im stumbling through it. can you guys think of anything that im missing? any tips or suggestions? as soon as i gather the rest of the parts, im gonna see if anyone in the san diego area can lend a hand. ive spent too much money to rely on my own mechanical skills ou:

thanks to all in advance! :TU:

 

don't forget about your headersand rest of the exhaust, you might ask around about the fanshroud and radiator setup it may need changed?

 

I've got a timing set, $40 shipped to you. PM me if you want it.
John

 

good points! almost over looked the radiator. although, ive heard around the way, if im not running ac, the 3 core radiator would work fine? o No:

also, could i get a moderator to move this thread into the street strip section? its no race engine by any means ou: :laugh:

 

pm sent bud :TU:

 

Radiator should work fine, but you need a 455 shroud from an A body or any 72 big car is supposed to work.

 

Make sure you get the full 12 volts to the HEI unit I made the mistake of using the old wires and it will kill your module I went threw about 6 before I figured it out.

 

Pete, I have a very nice large `72 455 radiator for you if you need one. I'd take $100 for it. I I'm in NC zip 27526, interested?

 

not at the moment. i just dropped 500 with t/a performance :spank: im gonna try and skirt by for the time being.

 

will i need a new throttle cable for the 455? or is it just the bracket thats different between the 355 to 455?

 

Im in CA and i have alot of extra parts from my engine. If you need anything just let me know.

But im still using the throttle cable for now.

 

both

I went aftermarket on them

 

hey all. another question. can the engine be installed with poston headers bolted on?

pete

 

I used the same throttle cable from 350.

You need to set the headers in to the engine bay and drop the motor in. The 455 headers are much easier than 350 headers.

 

ill give that a shot first. this project is getting expensive ou:

You need to set the headers in to the engine bay and drop the motor in. The 455 headers are much easier than 350 headers.[/QUOTE]

probably easier considering i dont have any inner fenders! :TU: :laugh:

 

another question guys...

does the crank gear need to be tapped or pressed in? i havnt tried yet but its pretty snug. gets hung up on the key but it seems like if it were tapped in, it would go on no promlem. just didnt want to force it. also, the oil slinger goes on after the gear correct?

 

The gear will spil on almost the entire way you will have to tap it on about the last 1/2 inch.

The gear goes on before the oil slinger.

 

quick update. i got the timing gears installed and i wanted to run it by you good folks to see if i did it right.

on another topic, is there any trick to getting the freeze plugs in the block? every time i try and tap them in, it flys out :rant:

 

looks to be done correctly by looking at your picture. You may need to move your fuel pump (if you are using one) toward the front of the motor as the are of the pump may rub. Try using a rat tail file and making the holes oval.

I put them in by using a large socket in the center of them and taping in the center.

 

put the freeze plugs in the freezer over night. in the morning, use the large socket as a dolly with a mallet and pull one out of the freezer and try popping it in, taking it easy, one at a time...has worked before:TU:

I have your bolts and water pump if still interested but sound like you have it under control, sorry been so busy. MO