Why does every simple job turn into an excrement show for me? Go to change the front shoes on the Aquamist car and check the wheel cylinders- a stream of brake fluid runs out when I peel back the dist boot. Ok, I need new ones. Go the the auto parts store and all they have is $13 a piece Chinesium Dorman wheel cylinders. Argh....Ok, just order me those....what could possibly go wrong right? I put them in, button everything up and go to bled the brakes. The bleeder is jammed against the spindle. There is NO WAY to bleed the brakes. I take the brakes apart and compare the new cylinder against the old one. The new cylinder's bleeder is too far inboard. Not by much but enough to have it not fit. So the Dorman cylinders are actually manufactured incorrectly! My friend tells me about hole in the wall auto parts store in Sayville a couple tons over. Never heard of the place. I call the guy and he says he's got them in stock. Says they're US made. Sure enough, they're cast "made in USA" . They were $30 each but they fit like a glove and I probably wont have to replace them in a year. So moral of the story for you guys with front drums, make sure you compare the bleeder screw location on the new cylinders against your old ones
The OEM ones are a tight fit regardless. takes a special wrench to loosen them. I had the shop in town swap the WC's and front shoes. I loaned him my special wrench after he had the hoses on BEFORE fitting the WC's to the backing plate... ws
I put a set on and the bleeders were against the spindle. I put replacement blenders from Napa on and they gave me the clearance. #20089
Hey Jason, I have some U S A made wheel cylinders for that application, also... You will hopefully never need them again while you and I are alive !!! Yours, Craig......
Jason, I feel better reading these threads as some days I think it is just me. Usually this happens in -20 degree weather after I spent 3 hours on my cold garage floor working on something. It's maddening. I have learned my lesson with Dorman... so consistent that I only use it if nothing else on earth exists....
You have to flush all remnants of DOT 3 out of your system. I have read somewhere about flushing system with alcohol and then hit it with compressed air.
When I redid the entire brake system back in the late 80s I went to dot 5 silicone brake fluid. Car has rarely been driven never had a problem from sitting. The fluid is purple when new The color is a little off now it probably does need to be changed. You don't have to worry about ruining the paint when you bleed the brakes either.
Happened to me last year with wheel cylinders from Rockauto, but only on the drivers side. I do not have the luxury of having auto parts stores, carrying parts for US-muscle cars, around the corner, and an exchange from Rockauto would have been pretty expensive (international shipping). So my work around was to loosen the wheel cylinders from the backing plate just enough to get enough clearance in between bleeder and spindle. After bleeding I tightened the cylinders again, and was all set.
Did you put some never seize on the bleeders???? AND the mounting bolts for that matter; that stuff can get rusty in a hurry! ws
Could of sent you original wheel cylinders. From W Texas / New Mexico parts cars. Unsure if rebuild kits are still available. For front drum brakes. Personally always rebuild the existing cylinder, as opposed to cracking the brake line and installing a "chinesium" one. Meaning the wheel cylinder.
Had all mine- wheel & master cylinders rebuilt and stainless sleeved. Then I did a disc conversion, so now only the rears are sleeved.
I have low mile /2500-3000 miles 70' drum assemblies complete and restored before use, new parts , hoses etc. Here: http://v8buick.com/index.php?threads/70-drum-assemblies-low-miles.353274/ Taking up space, make an offer.....JIM
