Well, I was one of the many here that did a 4 speed conversion (redo actually) who ran into adjuster problems with the factory linkage. Running all of Dave Kliener's linkage I ran out of adjustment on my clutch rod. I think this is due to me running a Lakewood Bellhousing, but am not sure as I have read others having this problem running a factory bell. Anyhow, my fix was to fabricate an adjuster rod. I've attached a picture. I have to say that the clutch throw feels ALOT smoother now with this setup then it did with the factory piece. It also gives about an inch of extra adjustment if needed. :3gears:
Now that's fine American gear head ingenuity. I had to do the same thing (stock bellhousing) but I'm a "hack", I'm trying to reform. I cut the head off of a 2 inch bolt with the same threads and connected it to the end of the stock rod with a nut and a couple of spot welds. Yours looks much better. :beer
Very nice work! :TU: You should see the welded up mess on mine necessary for the Borg & Beck clutch. I can't take credit though - 'twas the work of my tranny specialist. FYI - Borg pretty much means you've got to be strong as a Borg to use it.
I'm also running a Borg & Beck clutch, so maybe it was that that caused the adjustment mess that led me to make the rod and not the bellhousing. :grin: o No: I must admit with the heim joint instead of the rubber bushing, it is much easier to pedal the B&B clutch. :3gears:
Clutch adjuster I did pretty much the same thing with the heim joint...that is what is on the car now. I am going to try this adjuster soon. I took a Pontiac adjuster, cut it down and welded a nut on the end. I'm sure this will give me the extra needed travel that everyone seems to be experiencing. I hope to be out :3gears: sometime today!
Looking good Scott!!! :TU: Did you run into reliability problems running the heim joint to make you switch back to the rubber bushing? Hopefully this thread will help others doing the conversion. I was chatting over at Buickland, and there are a couple of folks wanting to do the swap, but are waiting for all of us to iron out all the wierd problems that pop up. :laugh:
No problem Mike I havent encountered any problems with the heim joint style, I just want to see if there is a difference in the feel of the pedal. Even though it is adjusted to factory spec, it still dosent seem to feel right...maybe its just me o No: . Here is a pic of the heim joint that I fabbed...looks about like yours! :TU:
I believe you were dealing with the clutch issue rather than the scattershield. I'm in a stock bellhousing. My "specialist" tossed the rubber and went to an aluminum bushing.
Hehe, yea, I'd say that its identical to what I made...and here I thought I had come up with something creative. LOL :laugh: Good to hear it's a clutch issue as I will most likely be replacing the current setup with a Centerforce dual friction eventually.
Mike Seems we've all had clutch adj issues. I cut mine and welded a longer threaded rod on. Your setup looks great. I see a part you could market to other 4 speed guys! Good job
Thanks Paul, Making them is not all that hard, just a bit time consuming with cutting the bolt and threading it. If anyone is interested PM me or email me and I'd be happy to make some more. :beer
I would like to know if anyone has part number and source for this clutch adjustment setup? I'm out of adjustment and need this type setup with longer rod like others have mentioned solved their problems. Appreciate any details on getting the pieces together for my car. Thanks!!
Hi Rob. I hope all is well with you up there in Cameron Park. Someday we just might meet up. The spherical rod end was (should still be) Napa #732-1129. After that find the appropriately threaded exhaust manifold stud and lock nut to insert into the rod end, and use an OEM trunnion on the other end. I think the stud will necessarily have different threads on both ends (so make sure you have your trunnion before shopping). You can mix and match studs to get sufficient length for fork throw depending on your combination. I think my stud is 2 inches long, or more. Your stock clevis pin will be a perfect fit with this.
Ordered the part from NAPA today. Should have it tomorrow by noon. Yeah hope we connect some time. I go the Folsom Cars and Coffee regularly. It's every Saturday morning 8-10 and they get a good turnout and some nice variety. We are also having a nice event here at the Cameron Park Airpark in September 17!
The B&B clutch has a different "ratio" than the stock diaphragm type. It requires extra travel. When I put one in mine, I lengthened the z-bar bottom leg to make it "throw" more (in addition to bracing it as the first iteration broke on me). This worked for me. This different clutch may be why your were out of adjustment length.
Picked up the parts from local Napa store and installed them today. W O W what an improvement!! It feels like I have an entirely new shifter linkage because it is so smooth now. The old adjuster had a badly worn rubber bushing and the threaded rod was a bit to short. This new style adjuster setup should be a "sticky" thread for anyone who has a manual transmission. Thanks everyone who figured out this solution!
Would any of you please list what the exhaust stud that you used is actually and not about or close but actually what you bought? I got the heim joint but no one states the length of the stud they are using. Thanks in advance......
2.5 or 3" can work. Right now i have a 2.5" in my car, but needed a 3" with another set up I was running. The clutch, bell housing type, pivot ball type and TO beaing all play a roll in the overall geometry of any given car's individual pedal feel, clutch engagement and exhuast stud requirement. My advice is buy a 3/8-16 X 3/8-24 exhaust stud in each length your local store has and find what works with your car.
