Sweet build. I just read it. You had a nice stall, great gearing, and a dual plane. I have stock converter, 256 gears, and a single plane. My 750 had a 50cc pump and I tried every pump nozzle and pump cam combo possible. Even tried the Thompson blaster plate under the pump nozzle. I experimented with smaller air bleeds, bigger IFRS , transfer slot settings etc. You name it. When I tried bigger squirters it launched but then bogged. Heavy car with highway gears needs smaller squirter to extend duration of the shot. A properly tuned carburetor will take off gently from a stop with no sputter whatsoever. Using the accelerator pump to cover up off idle stumbles is a fix for too big of carb with not enough signal to the boosters. I could not make that 750 work. I have great drivability now and great power. Maybe down the road when I get a stall and gearing I will revisit the bigger carb. Here's a video I took. Watch the afr gauge on light acceleration. Believe me...i think through this all of the time. With how adjustable this carb was I should have been able to make it work....bolt 600 cfm on and problem solved. https://m.youtube.com/shorts/EOOzDRlBqdc
Thanks ,. like most people have said here,.. that once you change the gearing and stall and fuel delivery, the tuning will start all over again... Couple things, I weld up the mechanical advance hole for the HEI to about half the hole around 9* and put the rest of the timing in at the crank for a more snappier feel off idle and better throttle response, and will probably need a electric fuel pump to carry the fuel supply past 6000 rpm... I wish I had your aluminum heads at the time of my build.. your on your way though...!! Good Luck..!!
I just have the single-plane intake not the aluminum heads Some how I missed your build thread when searching this site. Your motor and slip times are impressive. I can't go to gearing like that without switching to a 2004r though. I drive this car way too much and I do alot of highway. I'm not in a huge hurry at this point to do much more with the combo. Probably will do the 2200-2500 stall next year. I really cant believe how the car runs now and almost meets my expectations. Little stall and changing my shift points will go a long ways toward improving that performance I'm after. Drivability is perfect.
Oh right about the alum. heads, not on your car, was reading about them in another thread... but I did use a 1/2 " wood spacer with the dual plane t/a intake... under my 750 holley.. So just from my experience, if spending money on a 2500 stall you might as well get a 3000, cause you won't even see the difference for the money, waste of money,.. My 350 buick drove great like a stocker with 3:73 gears and a 3500 stall, the guy that bought that whole motor combo from me could not believe how well it all worked for everyday driving... He couldn't believe it had a 3500 TCI stall converter in it.. The car was driven often for eveyday use... a good engine combo will get you around everyday and put some numbers on the board.. with out breaking the bank... You have a really good start.. Don't let money come between you and your happiness...!!
Yes a nice quality converter can both flash up off the line and also give minimal slippage. I have a 4500 Stall converter for a Th-350 that only slips 5% at top speed.
Sweet. I talked to Jim Wiese earlier this year. I'm certain I'll have him build my converter. I'm just trying to decide if I want to stick with the 256 gear and turbo 350. I do not want to lose my mileage I get around 18 or 19 MPG. I turn 2500 rpm at 70 mph.
4 speed auto, 373 gear 28" tire 2200 rpm 70 mph done lol and lock up which you can do in 3rd gear when cruising at 45 mph if you want that feature I like it, feels like a stick shift when in 3rd at 45
It will most likely be a while. I pulled the trigger on a 13kw solar system with battery backup. I went with a short-term loan...it'll only take a few years to pay off the system. Downside is money might be tight for a while. Pretty big monthly payment. I could swing the expense of the stall if I stick with turbo 350.
Honestly I would leave it as is and enjoy it! Later on you can make that jump to the OD trans and better gearing. Or be like me and swap in a stock 2004R out of a 88 caddy and keep the 2.56 gears. My 75 Regal has that combo with a 10:1 cammed ported head 350 it turns just 2250 RPM at 100 MPH. Sure it would be quicker off the line with a 3.73 gear but I don’t race the car and it’s not slow off the line. I will be swapping in a 12.5:1 350 with a single plane intake and E-85 and at that point I may switch to a 3.42 gear.
The pics are too small for me to give a positive ID on them but I’m sure that some of them are 2004Rs. Most of the 200s are multi pattern bellhousing for Chevy and buick olds Pontiac. Try to get the TV calve and carb bracket as well, so a carb application is best. No the 88 caddy isn’t anything special it just happens to be easy to find and comes with the q jet bracket and tv cable.
It took me 10 years before I put in my 200 trans ran a 373 gear all that time and was at 3 grand on highway to stay at 60 My trans came from a Caddy probably nothing special, if you get a hold of Janis Transmission in Akron Ohio he can build you one he did mine in 2005. That is what he does. There are others out there and I have nothing special done to mine and have ran that nitrous on it so they hold up well. Get your trans and rear gear done at the same time then you won't suffer you will probably spend about 3 grand on trans and convertor now I would guess. The rear won't be as bad maybe a grand there. I know Buick doesn't spell boat which means Break Out Another Thousand. lol But close.
So are you currently running a 2004r that is stock from a caddy? You said nothing special has been done to it? Or are you currently running the built transmission? Custom 2004r can be bought for around 2500 but they are beefed up nicely.
Here's another article. From 600 cfm to 1000 cfm the HP and torque numbers are close. I learned alot from this one. They also mention the potential problem with annular booster that I believe I was dealing with. Theres one more carb shootout article i read that I can't find in my history but they actually bolt an annular on a small block and had low speed issues that couldn't be tuned out. https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.motortrend.com/how-to/148-0403-seven-holley-carbs-test/amp/
My trans just happen to have come from a Cad the trans shop I have known for years they build trans for a lot of GN's and so forth. The trans was rebuilt with better parts but no billit drum and so far, it has held up to my abuse. Worth every penny and the best add on I ever did I would put the money here first then do the rear end since you would gain with this right off the bat. Could you imagine being locked up in 3rd gear in your trans now? You can have that with the 200r4 trans Plus the low gear is lower than a turbo350 trans now you move out of hole a tad quicker. We haven't even put this thing in 4th gear yet let alone locking up that gear!! I want to add a 410 gear to this, and I am starting to lean towards a 3500 on the convertor from 3000 maybe 3300 may not have to do that with a 410 gear have to see.
Your little article shows nothing fancy needed for carb you got to really research all the crap you want to add to car because you will make plenty of mistakes before you get it right. You're lucky, you have this website, and I had the 80's and 90's to try and figure it out, 350 Buick what? LOL
I'd love the lower first gear with 2004r. I have plans for it eventually. This website has been extremely helpful. Myself and partsrparts are now adding to the mix of useful information. Gsjohnny as well. We've all three seen good results with the smaller carb and single plane intake. Partsrparts will hopefully have track results in the spring with his 650 brawler. My real life experience coincides with every carb article and tuning guide available. I have a single plane, 2000 rpm cam, highway gears and I can lay 100 feet of rubber without a stall converter. That 600 cfm carb woke my car up!
