No cheaper alternative. I went with the shorty headers because I was sure it would fit the car's chassis. Looking at it, I'm pretty sure standard long tube A-body headers will probably fit, but I don't guarantee that because I have not tried it.
I sure wish their was a cheaper alternative, looks like I will just have to save up for a set! Sometimes I wish car manufacturers reused parts for all their engines! :rant:
aaron, TA performance long tube headers will fit our cars with plenty of clearance. im sure someone on the board has a set they would be willing to sell
is the Z-bar specific to the x body platform? looking up hydraulic kits, they are pricey! Would like to stick to a manual clutch if possible.
The Z-bar is the one piece that is '76-'79 X-body specific. Or at least as far as I know none of the F-body ones will fit, though I have not seen them side by side. If I were at a junkyard and saw a 2nd gen F-body Z-bar I'd grab it, but certainly no guarantee it'd fit properly. The rods, frame plate, and clevis pin can be picked up from F-body reproductions and as I mentioned I got a 1st gen pedal set adapted to it. The best source I've seen is '78-'79 Nova's with 3 on tree and straight six.
I found a hydraulic system that looks promising from a company out of Arkansas that works with borg warners, saginaws and muncies. So I am going to look into that more, I found a saginaw four speed on craigslist for a good price that I am going to look at tomorrow morning. coded (GM 338935) which according to my research should fit the bop manual bellhousing. If the hydraulic system turns out to be garbage I will return it and continue looking for a Z bar setup.
There are two types of hydraulic clutch set ups. The type that slide onto the input shaft of the transmission and the type that is a simple rod bolted to the bellhousing that pushes the clutch fork. Do you know what kind of kit it is? If it is the one that slides onto the input shaft then don't be surprised if it's a pain in the rear to bleed the air out because all of the ones that style seem to be a pain in the neck to bleed. If there is air in the line the pedal is very soft. If it's the other style, you need a bell housing and bracket you can bolt the hydraulic rod to.
Count # of rings that cut across the input shaft splines at the tip of the input shaft. It sol correlate to the gear ratios inside. Big range depending on original application. For example a 3 ring has a 3.50 first gear I believe since it was for a 4 cylinder h body. Keep this on mind with your rear gear ratio and driving experience
It has the ring that slides onto the input shaft and it says that it has a bleeder that you can bleed the bearing outside the bell housing while its installed, but I will try to bleed it before it goes in. I am just hoping that it will work, I am expecting it will need a rebuild since it is off craiglist and I never believe what the people say, but its only $150, can't beat that for a core up here anyway. I will have the transmission inspected to make sure that everything is in working condition. Thank you for the info! he says its out of a 1960's car but I will double check tomorrow.
Ask him to pull the cover so you can inspect the gears and synchros. Take pictures. Dont lose the reverse check ball when pulling cover.
Went and looked at it today, outside was a mess but its a old transmission that's been sitting around, cracked it open and it looked immaculate inside. So i bought it! Looks like a 2 spline?
I jumped the gun and bought a bell housing off ebay, now I am worried it isn't going to clear a 455 flywheel. Its supposed to the universal BOP bolt up but it says its for a GM 10.5" clutch, which is fine but it says for a 153 tooth flywheel, all the flywheels I am finding for the 455 are 160 or 166 tooth. I am a little confused. The bell housing came off a 3.8 v6 sky hawk and is for a cable driven (I am doing hydraulic so that part doesn't really matter) Here is a picture of it if it helps, he accepts returns if it turns out not to work Also one more question, If I use a replacement clutch that is 10.5" does that mean that the flywheels are also 10.5"? Here is the link to basically the only flywheel I can find for the 455 http://americanpowertrain.com/i-842...r-all-buick-engines-400-455-excludes-401.html
It'll work just fine. I'm 90% sure the one I ran for years prior to going to a scatter shield is one of those cable ones.
I was trying to find a 10.5" clutch to use with the 455 because that's what it says I have to use with that bell housing but I can't seem to find a lot of clutches in that size period, they are all 11" and you think it will fit inside the bell housing just fine?
Hey everyone, just a quick update. It's been just too cold to really do anything productive but a lot of parts have come in, all I need now is the clutch and flywheel as well as the hydraulic throw out bearing. My friend is borrowing my engine hoist so as soon as I get that back the engine is going on a stand so I can do the final cleaning up and oil pan gasket as well as painting the engine. The carb is rebuilt and good to go. I am just hoping that the weather warms up soon! I've got new bushing to put in the lower control arms when I pull them to do the engine mounts as well. Everything is going a lot smoother than I expected and I am hoping it will be running by the Puyallup BCA show this summer!
Have you checked that the crankshaft is drilled for a pilot bushing or have gotten a retro-fit bushing?
Yep, I'd say 2 rings. That means your gear rations are 3.11, 2.20, 1.47, and 1.00. I have the same trans in my car with a stock 71 350 4v, and a stock 3.0 rear differential and it's a lot of fun to drive. What rear differential gear do you have? Also, in your 2nd picture with the cover off, at the lower right there should be a partial VIN number in that expanded rectangular machined section that your cover doesn't cover up with the cover installed. You can decode that number online to see what your trans came out of. Mine came from a 75 Monza.
Looks like it is drilled for one comparing it to others on the forum asking the same question I will look into that tonight, Thank you for the information. I was googling every number on the case I could and nothing was coming up!
I've been collecting parts and I am about 90% there now, I bought a universal clutch pedal thinking that there would be clearance under the dash for it- there isn't. So now I am at a stand still until I can figure something out.
