My '78 Skylark (before starting the project)

Discussion in 'The "X" bodies' started by noraarm, Jun 28, 2010.

  1. noraarm

    noraarm Well-Known Member

    it looks beautiful, but when you look at some spots close you can see the little dents and rock chips they didn't do, it was a maaco job so i didn't expect it to be perfect in the first place. but its my daily driver so i expect dings and rock chips in the near future, and i got the left over paint for minor touch ups. i can take better pictures later. i took those with my phone. thanks for everything guys :D

    ps. looking for someone in Washington (preferably western) that can do exhaust! need someone that isn't at a professional shop to do mine, apparently they cant do anything to do with catalytic converters? or the guy was just being extremely rude and didn't want anything to do with me when i had cash in hand...
     
  2. BUICKRAT

    BUICKRAT Got any treats?

    Looks good. Guess your luck turned out good after all!:TU:
     
  3. noraarm

    noraarm Well-Known Member

    made it all the way home from the Vancouver show and pulled into my drive way accedently stepped on my high beam button switch and killed it... high beams come on when i click it but no normals, but they do come on when i press it down right before the click. so going to go to napa in the morning to see if they have the part.
     
  4. noraarm

    noraarm Well-Known Member

    Just added a tachometer to my car, went kind of well. so far so good, had a little to much fun testing it though... person next door came out and yelled at me lol
     
  5. TheSilverBuick

    TheSilverBuick In the Middle of No Where

    Dimmer switch's are cheap and easy to replace ;-)

    Glad you got the tach working.
     
  6. noraarm

    noraarm Well-Known Member

    yeah i thought the switch was going to be hard to find, napa had like 800 of them in house. the tach wasnt to bad but i had difficulty finding the 12v that was only on with ignition, i have it just in with a fuse... probably not the smartest thing. I'll take some pics tomorrow
     
  7. TheSilverBuick

    TheSilverBuick In the Middle of No Where

    I plugged mine right into the Ign spade on the fuse box.
     
  8. noraarm

    noraarm Well-Known Member

    oh, that makes sense . i didnt know what it was so i didnt want to mess anything up. do you know what size spade it is? or is your different than mine?
     
  9. TheSilverBuick

    TheSilverBuick In the Middle of No Where

    I don't recall the offical name/size of it, but I just used a standard sized one with the blue plastic over the crimp fitting. It's not the small one, and not the large one. It's about 1/4" across.
     
  10. noraarm

    noraarm Well-Known Member

    alright i think i might have some.
     
  11. noraarm

    noraarm Well-Known Member

  12. TheSilverBuick

    TheSilverBuick In the Middle of No Where

    On the 231 headers, the stock intake is the big restriction, I'd change that before the exhaust dollar for dollar. Or if you are definately going the way of a V8 then just live with the 231 as is until there.

    I don't know on the 350 headers. I went with the TA shorties on the 455 because I had no clue if the long tube ones would fit.
     
  13. noraarm

    noraarm Well-Known Member

    So you would suggest a new intake manifold and carb?
     
  14. TheSilverBuick

    TheSilverBuick In the Middle of No Where

    If you are looking to pep up the 231. I briefly put a 4bbl intake on mine and it really woke up the mid range and top end. My problem was finding a suitably small carburetor on my budget. I had a ~400cfm carter on there for a bit. I swapped the 2bbl back on for smog testing and didn't bother going back to the 4bbl because of carb problems I had with it. I really don't think you'll notice that big of a difference with headers.
     
  15. noraarm

    noraarm Well-Known Member

    The main reason for headers and new exhaust is for sound, I'm happy with the power since all I do is drive to school and back, the local exhaust shops won't take a cat off the exhaust so I have to do everything myself with little experience, I've always wanted dual but if I can get away with a single output that's fine too. That's why I was looking into a exhaust kit. Since they don't make any single pipe v6 kits I was looking into this.
     
  16. noraarm

    noraarm Well-Known Member

    One more question about gauges, I was just at napa getting parts for our jeep and I saw a 3 gauge cluster for a reasonable price, it was a water temp, oil pressure and amp, are these complicated to install? Or would I need extra components to make them work? Thanks.
     
  17. TheSilverBuick

    TheSilverBuick In the Middle of No Where

    The temp and oil are pretty simple. You have to replace the idiot light sensor and then each has a line running from behind the gauge to the sensor, so you'll likely need to make a hole in your firewall for the lines. That takes some caution to not drill something important or unreachable.

    The AMP gauge is useless, IMO, I always buy a standalone voltmeter of the same size and install that, plugging right into the fuse box.

    To hook up the backlighting, there is a connection for that around the bottom of your fuse box (next to the small fuse).
     
  18. noraarm

    noraarm Well-Known Member


    what do you mean by the light sensor? the little oil light that is in the dash?
     
  19. wormwood

    wormwood Dare to be different

    i believe he means the wire that goes to the thermostat housing
     
  20. TheSilverBuick

    TheSilverBuick In the Middle of No Where

    Yeah, you have a "Temp" and "Oil" light on your dash, the wires that control those lights go to the temperature sensor(switch really) and oil pressure sensor(switch) on the block. The temperature sensor is on the intake just behind and to the right of the thermostat housing when looking at the engine and the oil pressure sensor is on the passenger side of the block between the oil filter and alternator.
     

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