My 76/77 Buick regals going to the darkside!

Im sorry. Today I test fit the motor in regal and forgot to take pics. I found out that due to me installing the motor 3 inch forward, the factory manifolds will
not work. Im going to have to buy headers. Fortunately I did find out that the intake, AC and everything else should work though. Buying headers will also save me from having to weld my own o2 bungs in though even though I can weld them easily if I want to though. So I removed the factory manifolds and thankfully no bolts broke. I then drove the bolts back in with anti seize on them for good measure until the new headers are here.

I also had to order a new fuel rail adapter because I accidentally ordered a 5/16 instead of the 3/8 that is required.

So I think I will shift to buying chassis saver and painting the engine bay, then mount the motor.
I have to get this thing running at least before halloween. I want to have it driving this winter so I can move it around to do the bodywork. I want to have it painted by spring and daily drive it all next summer.

 

There goes another $340. Hooker LS Manifolds are on the way.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hok-8501hkr/recommendedparts

Looks like I will soon reach that $6000 cap I wanted to stay under. Still. I am going to be happy to have big reliable power for the Buick. Then I will start the bodywork and Stereo/Interior (they will be closely related)

 

Holy crap. These exhaust manifolds came in and they are way more narrow than the stock truck ones. I probably narrowed the header profile buy 4 inches or so. No doubt its going to fit now.

I also got the chassis saver so I can paint the crossmember and install the motor in place hopefully this weekend to start fitting everything again.

 

Confirmed, the new manifolds are 2 inch narrower per side. That frees up 4 inches and gives me the clearance that I will need. Sweet! I held each flange flat on the floor to confirm the heights.

 

I stopped being lazy and sandblasted the engine crossmember and some of the frame. Then I got some chassis saver sprayed so I can get in there and mount up the motor once it cures. Maybe tomorrow I can get the motor in.

 

Purchased an intake for the swap. Bummed, I just hit the $$$$cap that I set plus $2. Now I am going to have to start really watching the funds spent. Should not be too much more though. The chassis saver really set up well and it dry to the touch. I definitely want to try to install the motor tomorrow. That will be a big milestone. I am trying not to get excited but I cannot help it.

 

Great progress this weekend. Motor is in although it will be coming out once more.
Hood I am sure will fit based on the amount of clearance at this point. My plan for no driveshaft mods is not going to work without notching the crossmember. The holly pan is amazing too.

Time to fab the tranny xmember and get the fuel system installed.

 

Looking good bro!

 

Here are a couple pics with the mocked up exhaust hooker ls swap manifolds.

 

For tonight not much progress as the wife, daughter and I early voted and my 2nd grader tagged along.

I did start test fitting the locations of the fuel system though. I am using AN6 fittings and stainless braided ethanol safe lines to keep things safe.

I also changed the layout of the intake. Im going to have to cut it up a little to make it to my liking.

Lastly, I removed the hooker manifolds to prepare to re adjust the motor location and to get the manifolds ready for ceramic coating (which will also be done buy yours truly at home).

 

Dang! Motor has to come out again. I was fitting the accessories and while I had a major win that the factory van AC that came with the motor will in fact fit.....but..... the power steering pulley is hitting the steering.

After some thought, I decided to space the motor mounts up a quarter inch and that should solve the problem.

 

Hell yea man, keep at it.

 

Just a quick update to the schedule for this install. No due dates just and overall.

Phase 1-The motor (make the car drivable)
Phase 2-bodywork and paint (Operation rust bust and paint)
Phase 3- audio install (High quality SQ plus install similar to my jeep install) Audiofrog GB10, GB25, JL zr800, JBL W15GTI MKII
Phase 3.5-upholstery (closely related to audio)
Phase 4- Suspension (Air ride)

 

I am over the moon! Motor is in and all accessories fit! I put the belt on and it fits. I already know that the exhaust manifolds fit so Hallelujah it is time to begin getting it all plumbed, wired and at least be able to run the motor. The belt is still close to the steering but I think I may be able to change the one bolt on the steering box to a lower profile one. Maybe a socket head.

Awesome!
Photos to follow as always.

 

Looks like Im going to be cutting and reshaping some sheet metal soon. Tranny doesn't fit as expected. In the AM I will have to decide plasma cutter or mini sabre saw.


Either way the tunnel must be modified. The small line and indentation near the middle of the tunnel (next to some fuzzy stuff) is the location of the tail end of the trans where I have to raise up.


My motorcycle jack is the perfect tool to lift and position the tranny

 

If it were biblical it could have read like this...


And the Lord said unto the child of God, "Be not afraid my son to cut the Royal metal of Buick that it should make possible the divine installation of glorious mechanical creation!"

And in the end, it was as the Lord had commanded. The divine installation had come to pass.



Ok I am done being silly.

Tranny is mostly in. Gotta find the bottom two bolts that I misplaced and torque them all down. I also will have to cut a tad bit more metal for proper clearance after I mahe sure the installed angle is about 3 degrees. Then there's the rest of the tunnel. I must cut it out all the way back if I ever want a driveshaft to fit happy with the progress so far though.


I will have to do a G8 tranny pan swap fore the tranny pan to up a bit more. It involves getting a G8 6l80e pan, welding an extension in and swapping the filter. This will make it a dip stick free pan but can still change the oil using a specific service procedure. The pan is about $35

 

Tranny x member in progress. Using scrap that I have. These supports came from battery rack supports that held batteries for data system backups. I had a bunch of them laying around so it is good to finally make use of them. I still have quite a few. Anyways, the tailshaft is within .03 degrees of the rear end pinion. Essentially they are parallel as they should be.

 

Just purchased HP tuners so I am getting closer to starting this bad boy. The software will be here Tuesday and I would be pretty pleased if I am able to open the box, download the software, delete VATS and start it on Tuesday. Again, I will not be ready to drive it but I want to at least hear the motor this month. I hope to have a good bit of progress this weekend.

 

Well, I spent the majority of the day on my back under the Car today. It was worth it though. The progress started bad when i realized that I had forgotten my mig welder bottle open and that resulted in a completely empty bottle. I had planned to finish welding the tranny x member today. After moping around pissed, I decided that progress must be made. I thought of all the stuff that had to be done to start the car and the tranny was not top priority.


So I bolted the x member up as it is (completely tig tacked and 100% suitable for test fitting)

I ran the stainless lines from front to back then figured that mounting the tank had to be done in order to complete the job. Well that turned into hours of test fitting and eventually the old tank was gone and the new tank, lines and regulator were all plumbed and the sending unit, pump wire, and grounds had pigtails wired in.


Feels great to have this big step almost completed. I stopped working in order to carve pumpkins with the family.


Here are the photos