Its a Muncie for sure. Must be a bit newer with the fine spline input. Not all Muncies had right side speedo hook ups. My M20 is on the left.
It's a 72. The speedometer cable is held by a couple clips under the trans and is routed under the bell housing the curves around to hook to the tail
Pics look like a fine spline M20 of the 70-74 variety. Input will be 26 splines and the output will be 32 splines (400 yoke). If the insides are good, I think 600 is a good price for that unit. Master rebuild kit should run you less than $200. Definitely borrow the video and jump in. Not that difficult inside there. You will need a pair of flat nose, needle nose pliers. They will make the job alot easier. Good luck with it.
The master rebuild kit is somewhat misleading. If you need to replace any of the gears or sliders your parts budget will quickly be over 500 bucks. You would be a lucky man if you only needed the bearings and the synchros.
I'm into my rebuild for about $400. My gears were all good, replace all bearings/seals, one shaft, and upgraded to torque lock sliders and an autogear iron midplate for strength. The midplate alone was $90 so you can get out cheaper if you don't want to upgrade that. Got all my parts from a place called "the gear box".
I would be totally convinced that it's a Muncie if I could see a picture of the side cover. If there's no pointy bump at the top it's a Super T-10. I always thought the Super T-10 was stronger than the M20/21 and almost as strong as a M22 hence the larger yoke. I'll pay closer attention next time I go to a sawp meet, but, I don't recall ever seeing a fine input spline on a trans that had a bump on the top of the side cover, not in 40 years. You will need a set of snap ring pliers (reverse pliers). I was rebuilding these for a Chevy dealer when I was 17 in 1970, I could do one in a little over an hour in my prime. One thing to watch for is end play on the second and third gears. If there's more then .005" of end play of the gears on the shaft you'll need to shim it. If not, in slow moving traffic when your on and off the gas, it can walk out of gear in to neutral.
Good to hear Curtis! To echo what Phil said, a GOOD set of snap ring pliers are worth their weight in gold when rebuilding a Muncie. I only had marginal ones and those rings put up a stellar fight.
Thanks guys SO what your saying is a pair of Harbor Freight snap ring pliers might not do the job LOL. I will invest in a quality pair if I go that route :laugh:
My decent pair from Lowes didn't quite do the trick! They need to be fairly large is the trick, its a bigger ring than what most run of the mill snap ring pliers are made for. The video mentions the pliers he uses that work perfectly. We got it with much aid from the pliers, but it was a bit of a pain.
All 1970-74 M20, M21 and M22 muncies were all fine spline (26) and all had the 400 yoke (32 spline). I believe these were the strongest of all the muncies made due to the larger diameter main shaft hence the larger input and output.
Take me to school here. When and where did they use the Super T-10? I think some people call all of them Muncies out of habit. The old T-10 (57 to 63), Saginaw (65 to 77) , Muncie(64to ?) and Super T-10 (70 to ?) were all variations of the same transmissions.
I know muncies were produced until 1974, although there were some leftover units put into early '75 models. Then GM switched to Borg Warner trannies. Lots of good info at this link. Gives you the years produced and design changes and how to identify both muncies and BW trannies. http://www.kajunjon.com/FAQ.htm
Lots of mis-information on that site, both Muncie and Borg-Warner, beware... Hope this helps... Crash
Regarding the Muncie mis-information (I'm not familiar with Borg Warners). Just curious, any important factors that look incorrect for muncies? Looks like the same info from http://www.5speeds.com/muncie2.htm The muncie ID info looks good to me (especially casting numbers) and matched up every muncie I've had. Just curious. I'd like a site with more info regarding the 70-74 side cover applications. Especially applications that use and dont use the TCS switch on the side cover. http://www.5speeds.com/casting.html
The 3885010 main case was used 1966-67 never in 1965... M-22's were factory install in 1965... 26 Spline input for M-20-21 didn't start until the 1971 model year... The "P" number is the build date, not a serial number... Borg-Warner T10-1B main case was used thru the 1966 model year... Borg-Warner T10-1C used a bushing on 1st gear(the T10-D1 didn't) Borg-Warner 1st design ST-10 started in 1967, never used an Aluminum main case, had more than 2 different ratio's, used a 7/8" cluster pin, and didn't use a sleeve for 1st gear on the main shaft... You will find the same mistakes on most Muncie info sites because everybody cut and paste Pauls 5-speed info... Hope this helps... Crash
Some good points. I somewhat agree. But i have to take the info with a grain of salt.. there has to be some overlap of years. I believe they use up what tbey have left then start installing the new. I believe there has to be a (for exame) a 71 4 speed car that has a factory course spline trans. Just because they didnt use them all up yet. Or maybe they used them all up mid year and started putting them in early. Dont think there was a set date on a changeover.
