'68 Skylark Hardtop 350: Heads are in the shop; A/C stuff mostly removed; replacement wheel housing and battery tray are in the mail; intake, valve covers, air cleaner, etc painted or in the process. At some point it looks like there was a minor meltdown in the wiring harness. Rather than re-wrap and tuck away the residual A/C wiring (probably where the meltdown started) I should probably just go ahead and re-wire.... sigh My question is: Any of you out there who've already done it have good notes for the lengths and routes you used? I know there are plenty of schematics out there but they don't offer anything beyond relative route and position. Thanks, Bill
I do a bunch of wiring, but for the firewall forward, I started with a new M&H wiring harness. You can order to match your upgrades if you have any, like internal regulated alternator, etc. I think it is wiringharness.com I may have a description of what I did to my cars, with rear mounted battery, remote starter solenoid, and cut off switch if you are doing something like that. I changed up the firewall forward electrical quite a bit to set it all up for the street driven convertible. But it sounds more like you are looking for stock type.
WHAT? This is a tech forum. If I were a lesser wrencher with a greater budget I suppose I'd drop $350 (minimum) on a new harness.... pffff
Mark, Yeah, I'm staying stock. But you've peaked my interest. What's involved in the rear mounted battery? That might be fun.... Thanks. I just looked up M&H. $183 for the engine harness! That's a great price. But I still think I'll make my own.
If you are going to rework your existing, you should pull it all out, or buy a used one and rework it from there. I like my battery in trunk. Stock system has power from battery to starter, and from starter to main fuse block going in to firewall from the main harness. I have battery in trunk with remote starter solenoid, so only power going to starter is for starting. Main power is distributed to power blocks in trunk, firewall and core support. Alternator charge wire goes to the one on firewall. This gets good direct power to main fuse block, electric fan relays, convertible top relays, headlights and all components. I use internal regulated alternator to power everything, and removed wiring for regulator. I cut out a bunch of wiring from the stock harness. I run mechanical gauges so no need for the wiring for the sensors. Everything in my car works with original switches and function, and "key on" items work as original. Just my way of modernizing the electrical system. I started a thread with pictures, so you may be able to search and find it. Here is the thread. I worked that harness with basic supplies anybody can get quick. I have since reworked another with better connectors. Just FYI. http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.p...rness-modifications-how-to&highlight=Carmantx
Speaking of meltdowns, per a recommendation on this Forum, I recently routed the battery cable going to the starter and the wiring harness underneath the motor mount, away from the exhaust manifold. It fit nicely, and seems much more comfortable there. The motor mounts are rigid, correct? They won't 'flex' and chaff the harness passing below, will it? (Per factory specs, the spark plug wires on my '71 Corvette get routed through the motor mount) Thanks
Hey, I found this universal wiring diagram that is perfect for any vehicle. I keep one in my saddlebag for on the road problems with the motorcycle.
