1970 GS455: Assuming no major difficulties arise, what would be the anticipated work hours to a. remove and install complete front suspension to stock (with a front disc conversion with new booster/master cylinder/prop valve) b. install f and r shocks and springs c. remove axles to install new brake drum assemblies d. install new brake lines e. remove and install new steering box. Thanks,
Complete front suspension meaning all control arm bushings, upper and lower ball joints? Are we blasting and painting the control arms? Detailing the front end components? Just r&r'ing the parts and presswork...prob a days work. 8 hours. The disc brake conversion has alot of overlapping hours because you have most everything apart already. All brake lines? The one to the rear involves lifting the body. Are you sure you want to do that? If they're not rotted or rusty, I'd leave them be. All the lines would probsbly be another few hours. The line to the rear is a real bitch. Another 8 hours... The power booster and master isn't really much more labor while your doing everything else. Maybe an additional hour Power steering box I assume. Couple hours there Rear axles and backing plates. 4 hours maybe? Everything you mentioned... id say a shop would probably quote you 2500 just in labor depending. And there's one thing I've learned working on old cars, there are always complications- rust, broken bolts, frozen parts.
If all were done at one time, barring any problems (broken bolts... And then I saw "new post while you were typing like a stoned sloth, would you like to see it?" and see Jason already typed up a lot of what I was going to say. Are you doing the work all at once, or in stages? Do you have the tools and knowledge? Or paying someone to do this in a shop where it is expected to be quick turnaround or "production work as scheduled and workflow permit" (pronounced "it will be done when we get it done")
Just my wild ass guess as far as hours. Like I haven't done everything on that list like 50 times before..
I've pulled new (3/8" stainless) rear brake line (body) without lifting the body on a '64 and '68. (I did not want to pull the body and go down that road) I am stubborn, can speak fluent "sailornese" and have plenty of extra tools for throwing, but I would never tell someone they could do it. They gotta want that pain for themselves. (It was more of a "I wonder if I can..." followed by; "Well, I go this far, I am not backing out now!) The '64 went easier than the '68.
thanks all. I slowly have been amassing the parts with the plan to do the work myself. I'm not a mechanic/restorer but reasonably knowledgeable and competent with tools and researching and learning how to. I assumed i will run into trouble on multiple occasions but limited work space and time have delayed the work from getting started. so I was thinking about biting bullet and sending the car out and be done with it. today i was quoted as a 25 hour job-consistent with above comments. As i write this, i just figured out the best solution: I'll fly my brother in law into town and give him a daily rate! Probably still cheaper even if i have to fly him in twice. He's a trained engineer now self-employed and makes up his own hours. Kid was dropping engines and re-ringing pistons in his backyard as a teen. did not realize had to lift body for brake lines-thought they were clipped to frame. my lines are fine but i thought for the relative cost, why leave 50 year old lines connected to new brakes. this is were everyone chimes in "if it ain't broke, don't fix." Thanks all
The rear line from the tank goes to the driver's side just under the trunk and over the top shock support and down the front of the wheel well behind the frame and out a hole before running the length with those clips in into the frame in the front and out the front frame horn near the steering gear box. Because it took a lot of twisting/articulating I did the back first, and then made a large bow in the line and worked it through the front.
The problem is where it goes in between the body and the frame just in front of the rear wheel. And there's a clip with a bolt in there too. So you have to somehow snake a pre bent line through that little space. And everything is in the way.. I guess if the rear was out and the exhaust removed it might make it slightly less complicated....but still. Remember, they put that line in when it was just a frame...
For me, I took the all the bits out of the car myself . When it was time for the body shop to remove the body and give me the frame to redo, he only gave me a week to do it. Yeah, not happening. Luckily my tow truck driver who was booked in his body shop took on just doing my frame. So for your actual question, for me it cost $1450.00 in labor (no parts) to take my rolling chassis apart, have it blasted, painted and all my new parts amassed installed. This was over the course of a week and probably about 25hrs of work All new front bushings, tie rod ends, spring shocks were installed. My rear was blasted and painted and all new brake hardware installed. New fuel and brake lines installed. Steering box removed, coat of spray paint and new bolts installed as they were almost deteriorated. Pump just hanging on by bungee cords for the ride. I replaced hoses later. And we dropped in the motor and trans back in before giving it back to body shop. Before, during and after pictures below.
Yes sir! That was just frame tear down and put back together by a second shop as shown in pics above. Main body shop did all the metal work, remove body, prime, paint and put body back on. That was the expensive part. lol
