TA sells these... http://www.bhjdynamics.com/index.php?main_page=products_all&disp_order=3&page=4 https://harmonicdampers.com/images/bu/BU-IB350-7.jpg
See why I like my Romac. Have two and no problems with balance and alignment. Just put crank trigger on one car today with Romac.
My experience with the ATI damper on my Tomahawk build, started out very similar to Tom Righters experience. When machining the back side of the hub off, it definitely moves the large radius into the seal. To remedy that I moved the radius forward until it no longer interfered with the seal, BUT............. the real issue was when I looked closer at the overall design and measurements, I discovered that the internal counter bore for the bolt/washer was TOO deep to allow the re-machining of the radius. It ended up with a wall thickness of approximately 1/16"!! WAY TOO thin for a normal application, but "unthinkable" for a ProCharged application!!! What I ended up doing is designing and building a new hub made from 4140 pre-hard that was correct for my application. I also broached double keyways for the extra load with the blower belt. My Crower crank was also made with dual keyways for the blower application. So......... fair warning about modifying the hub on an ATI dampener! If you do, make sure that you blueprint it and double check all dimensions! I'm NOT going to be building any more of these hubs, but if anyone is interested in the CAD drawing for the re-designed hub just let me know............... Steve
Are there any issues running it as is and sticking out other than asthetics and difficulty seeing marks when timing?
I would think you would want it back as far as possible. The further it hangs out There would be more of a whipping action at high rpm. But it’s hard to argue on how many passes you have on the motor
I would think so while you have it off take a depth measurement of the inside of the hub see how far it’s going on.
The thing of it is Steve I never removed any material off the length of the hub and it still hit the seal
Called ATI and they say alot of motors like LS have a longer snout so they say no issue for longevity.
I just thought of something Bruce, if it’s just long and bottoming out on the crank sprocket then you’re OK but if that’s not touching the crank sprocket that’s a problem. Maybe you could get a small mirror in the fuel pump hole And see if you can verify
Interesting idea Tom but I'll prob leave that to when I build another motor. Still too bad ATI can't machine it properly...then again I was trying to tell them their footnote was wrong in saying 403-455...should be 430-455 or more correctly 400-455 but he said Buick did make a 403 and he had an Electra with one in it. I said Olds motor...and asked if there was anything else he could help me with. Hmmm...ok then....
I am going to start with this.the ATI balancer is by far the best dampener made,spintron tests prove that.With that said there are limitations with the way it is built for external balance that it has to sit away from the cover because of the internals and the weight.Now for the internal versions,I am talking with ATI to redesign the internal balancer.possible to use a big block chevy dimension hub.The crank to seal measurements on a Buick make it to thin as horsepower, turbos,PROCHARGERS,to take the abuse.We may need to machine the stock front cover for a larger seal, grind or machine the timing tab for balancer clearance.Using a big block chevy pulley isn't the end of the world if it lines up with acc. correctly.Mine is a Jesel belt drive so that makes the modification easier.I am aware that others have done this already.
I will be using the external balanced ATI unit, so watching this thread. Plan is to use big block Chevy crank pulley, create spacers for accessories. This came with my short block, was used to balance the reciprocating assembly, so it’s worth the extra effort for many reasons. Someone honed the hub to be a slip fit, so I’m waiting for a new hub from ATI so it can be honed for the interference fit that ATI recommends.
The ATI balancers for our Buicks usually just slip on with no interference,I doubt it was honed could be wrong but I doubt it,not the best way of course that they designed it .. As far as your pulleys just buy a BBC bottom pulley and open it up for the bigger crank bolt and it will all line up . Lordco probably has an aluminum one on the shelf .
