Anyone using slightly more modern low drag calipers with a matching quick take up master cylinder to reduce disc brake drag?
Your car has a floating caliper. If the piston is free, the bushings are free, the inner pad is not binding due to rust on the caliper, and the wheel bearings are adjusted correctly, there's no reason for the caliper to drag.
I'm not using low drag calipers but have a 72 style system on my 69 GS. I had to check the actuator pin clearance when changing master cylinders. My piston had a shallow hole and the pin caused the discs calipers to drag initially. I left about .020" extra clearance for expansion, just to be sure there was no drag. I never remember having to check this detail in the past but with manufacturing tolerances and parts not being made in USA more things have to checked now. Good luck.
Nothing to do with rusted or seized floating calipers in my case. Later years of S10’s have these “low drag” calipers. These low drag calipers have the seal in the piston actually pull the piston back a small amount when no pressure in the system. There is a matching master that moves more fluid in the initial movement of the piston in the master cylinder to take up the extra space the caliper piston must travel, otherwise the pedal would be very low in the car. This was brought into reduce drag and improve mileage. Thought it would be a great application for our Buick’s at the drag strip. Plus be street friendly. I’ll keep digging. If I find any info, I’ll post.
That's nothing new. That's how a caliper should work. The square cut seal in the caliper actually twists slightly as piston moves out and untwists when pedal is released. I was taught that in vocational school in 1979.
Not saying it’s new, just saying it’s different from my 72 stuff. If I can easily upgrade to low drag front brakes, I’m going to try it. Have a long winter tinkering time.
If one was concerned about disc brake pad drag, they should just wiggle the wheel left and right a little, if they are using a line-lock (or not), as the front wheel bearing clearances would allow for pushing the pads off the rotors just enough. That's got to be one of those .001-second tweaks, though.