@pbr400 I never said I was the sharpest tool in the shed, just a tool somewhere probably rusty and ineffective, lol. I'm sorry for not doing this sooner, you guys are awesome, and I appreciate all of the help and advice! Thanks again
LOL at least you've found it. I did the same thing years ago when I was trying to figure out a gremlin on my ignition system. Ignition Man Dave Ray immediately pointed out what I did wrong, and I completely ignored it. I think mostly because it sounded stupid, but I went on for a few days digging in the wrong spots. Finally I stumbled onto the problem by accident. Then Dave proceeded to shred me publicly. He was really good at that.
Dave could be a pretty abrasive guy online. Talking to him on the phone was the exact opposite experience. He knows his stuff though.
We’ve all done it, some worse than others. After I posted it I worried that I was being rude. Glad you took it as good natured ribbing. Patrick
In my mind if someone takes the time to reply to a new guy and try and help, they're as good as a buddy to me. I am new to nailheads and that's the reason I came to the source! Hopefully I can score 2 push rods and rockers asap. Now the question is why all of a sudden the noise, or is that what happens with these push rods and rockers? Thanks!
They don't come off one at a time. They come off the head as a set. You're 90% of the way there after you take the cotter pin out that holds them all in. This is a high mileage engine, it seems logical. You can buy new shafts and refurbished rockers. I would sleep better if it was my car. I understand wanting to save time/money. But sometimes peace of mind is worth a few bucks.
Hey guys, my apologies for the lack of updates, but I haven't really worked on the car at all. A huge thanks to @JESUPERCAT for being extremely kind and helping a novice with some hard to find parts. I received the replacement push rods on Friday, and I got the replacement rocker arms in the mail yesterday, and put them on after a thorough cleaning of both sides' arm shafts, and arms. Next order of business is installing the new timing chain and gearset. I want to make sure I do this 100% correctly because I know if the gears are off a degree, bad things can happen. Per my service manual, I am to rotate the crank so that pistons in cylinders 1 and 4 are at TDC. I am then to rotate cam gear so that the dot on the gear is in line with the dot on the crank gear. Please correct me if I am wrong about this. Like I said, the last thing I want is to mess this deal up! Thank you
The dots have to line up at the point they are closest together. The dots will also be in a line with the centerline of the crank and cam one rotation earlier when the the crank dot is up and the cam dot is at the top of the cam gear. Once your dots are aligned at their closest point, try not to disturb the crank or cam position when removing and replacing the gears and chain. Cheryl
When you get to TDC, go clockwise until the piston moves, mark/note where the crank is, then go counterclockwise back to TDC and continue until the piston moves, and note where the crank is. The distance between the points is the "dwell" of the piston ( the place where it does not move as the crank journal is at the top of the arc in its rotation for that piston). Then move the crank to the center of that, and you will be at 0 degrees actual. Then follow what Cheryl says. If you already removed the timing gears and chain, say so. That way someone can help you through getting everything back to zero.
