Looking for info on having a 401 rebuilt

Discussion in ''Da Nailhead' started by Cole Adamrovich, Feb 15, 2022.

  1. Hi all!

    I am new to this forum. I have a 1960 Electra 4 dr. Hardtop that is running but not smoothly. "Lucy" seems to have a dead cylinder as she has an inconsistent sound when she is turning over and also a rear main leak.

    I am located in the Pittsburgh, PA area and am wondering if there are any reputeable shops "nearby" who can rebuild my nailhead. I know of centerville in California, but really am unsure of closer shops.

    Also, any idea of a price range I should be looking for?

    Thanks in advance!

    - Cole A.
     
    PGSS likes this.
  2. flh73

    flh73 Gold Level Contributor

    Call him, he's in your neighborhood.

    Tom Telesco
    Classic and Muscle Automotive
    12 Cook St.
    Norwalk, CT 06853-1601
    Day Phone 203-324-6045 ET
    NailHead Mini-Starters '53-'66
    Adjustable Roller Tip Rocker Arms - All NailHeads
    Custom Forged Pistons
    Many parts to numerous to list
    "If I can't get it, you don't need it!
     
  3. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Totally bananas

  4. Thank you much! I will do that!
     
    bhambulldog likes this.
  5. PGSS

    PGSS Gold Level Contributor

    Welcome Cole, and "Lucy"!
     
    bhambulldog and Cole Adamrovich like this.
  6. John Codman

    John Codman Platinum Level Contributor

    Tom T did my 425. It runs great. You're 401 should cost less to do then my 425 but it won't be cheap. Mine needed just about everything. Be sure to get a set of Tom's forged pistons.
     
    bhambulldog likes this.
  7. Thanks! I am contemplating attempting to do it myself, love to learn and tinker, but still am seriously considering someone else have do it. Do you mind saying what it cost you in the end? What price range I should be looking to pay? Thanks in advance!
     
  8. Also, i am wondering if 5k to 6k is reasoneable, but really have no experience to base that on.
     
  9. Bigpig455

    Bigpig455 Fastest of the slow....

    I think when building ANY engine , hope for 5, have 10 ready to burn. Understand that (and this number can change by geographic region, but not much) if you havent spent 3500 on machine work, A) the work occurred during the last rebuild and is still good, B) you got incredibly lucky on a virgin block or most likely C) Your machinist skipped something because he was busy/lazy/you didnt specifically ask for it. Then pistons, bearings, gaskets, cam and lifters will run at least another 1200-1500 dollars, and then another 600-700 for ancillary stuff or stuff you didnt bank on - freeze plugs, balancer, oil pump . so now your at 5-5.5 k before you even begin to assemble. If you're capable of doing it yourself, you're still likely to find another 500-600 worth of stuff you'll want to do while the engine is out, but has nothing to do with the engine proper: engine mounts, starter, belts and hoses, radiator recore, etc...you get the idea, it adds up.
     
  10. I was in for $7847.46, excluding shipping and incidentals. $5-$6k is more than reasonable.
     
  11. Thanks!
     
  12. John Codman

    John Codman Platinum Level Contributor

    PM sent.
     
  13. gs66

    gs66 Silver Level contributor

    First of all, Welcome! For learning start with building a small block Chevy. If something goes awry you are only out. $400, not $7,500.
     
    Mark Demko and TrunkMonkey like this.
  14. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    I’d do a leak down test first, uneven cranking is usually from a bad valve/s
    No sense going whole hog if you don’t have too
     
    sean Buick 76 likes this.

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