Partially. There is not enough material there to just machine .25" off of the entire back side. I machine a portion of the back side to create a stepped surface. The motor plate is designed to accomodate the step. It's worked well for me with no leaks or issues, (although I do run a vacuum pump which really aids in preventing oil leaks.) Of all the motor plates I've sold so far, I've finished the machine work on the front cover for about half of them, the others had it done localy or did it themselves if they had the means. It's not a bolt on type of modification and as with any low volume custom work, each application can be a little different from the next. Steve
I was thinking about making a couple of mounts for the front mount holes to the frame and then going from the heads to the frame using the 3 bolts on each head. Then using the mid plate at the back. Would that be to hard on the heads?
I don't have any personal experience with that method, but I've seen it done plenty of times. I would think it works ok, but with the obvious drawbacks. I was going to go that route in the begininng but decided that since I have the ability and equipment, to just build it using a more "tried & true" method. Steve
I used this set up with stock frame pads and motor mounts for many years.It worked fine. I did eventually change to a front motor plate to ditch the mounts in the name of weight reduction.
Second that. I bought Gary's old ears and used them for a few years after he was done with them. This set up works fine.
Steve I would like to get those ears but not right now. I need to stop buying for a bit. I would like to see a pic though.
Ok back to the intake, I was looking for a cloverleaf spacer for the Dominator and found on Ta's site the adaptor 1" spacer to bolt up to the Qjet holes and has the dominator holes to mount the dominator. Once I put that on I will match the inside with the spacer. Does anyone have one of these adaptor/spacer that they want to sell? I can paypal them today. If not I quess I will get it from TA. Is there any special milling info when I do this? Is the cloverleaf opening better than the square opening?
I got the cool runner ready but another question. the bottom hangs lower than the SP1 so will the valley block off plate fit under it? I dont have one to try I don't think but I painted the bottom with white ceramic paint to help keep it cool.
Mike at AMP makes one I believe for this manifold I took a stock valley pan and used that, also weld a cover over the PCV valve area to prevent the oil from getting sucked thru the valve it gets ugly with oil going under the carb.
We will be alright there. I'm running exaust evacuation system so that will be plugged but I did think about that.
