J-E-T-S

Who's running what jets with this combo?
Jets and power valves.

462
Long tube headers
Aluminum SE1 heads ported
SP1
950cfm carb

 

Get an AFR gauge. It'll make you a tuning pro before you know it.

 

That's your combo, not truly someone else's combo since you left off two of the most important details.
1) the Cam your using.

2) the altitude your at.
Your question is like asking how much salt folks like on they fries.

 

I would ditch the power valve myself

82ront 92rear no power valve

82 square with a 6.5 powervalve

 

My combo? I'm pretty sure there are LOTS of others with this combo, lol, were talking decades old of ppl building these motors guy.

TA 413 cam
Edit: track elevation 718.5'

 

Jeremy,
An AFR gauge or a good chassis dyno would be even better. This is something where will get 12 different answers from 5 people. You could line up 10 cars at a track and probably one of them actually has their act together.

 

True lol

 

Start with the factory settings until you get some afr readings or time on the dyno. On my hp1000 the factory jets were in the ballpark.

 

Specific one you would recommend?

 

I have the AEM gauge. It works great and I've seen it in a bunch of other cars.

 

I would first start with the jet size that belongs in that particular carb and you have to go by the list number on air horn to get the correct jets for that carb.
The power valve is half of what ever your vac gauge says in drive at idle. If you have 10 on gauge in drive you need a 5.0 valve.

Holley suggests to not take the power valve out of rear and up the jets as this could cause a flooding problem.
The carb is not set up to do that, you should use a carb that does not use a power valve in the rear.

But at the same time I hear a lot of people do this taking power valve out of rear. I would bet on the street this is a problem and I think this for a drag engine only since all it sees is the carb open Wide.

 

The only reason for a power valve is to cut the total amount of fuel going at light to mid range where it's not needed.......but still allow enough fuel when the load is high..........so a carb on a race car that is really never in that range it's kind of pointless

 

There is always the old-school way - spark plug reading.



https://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/how-to-read-plugs.html

https://fboignition.com/articles/sparkplugreading

 

On the Buicks I've ran with and without and on "some" combos it's been a little puffy at a certain part of the fuel curve..in the cruise rpm ...but I've also most always ran steeper gears....and had air bleeds to monkey with

 

But yes as Ben said on a mostly strip toy it's not doing anything

 

The carb has the factory jets and a front power valve. I wanna say my old carb has higher jets than this new one, but I have to check.

 

Looks like my old carb has two power valves per the card that came with it. And the front jets are now 82.

 

That's a vacuum secondary carb, not sure if that matters on the front and rear power valves

 

I use the Innovaate dlg-1 wideband delphI setup.

It's a Duel Wideband. Just installed it. Vet