Is it possible to remove 455 oil pan in riviera without pulling motor?

Ok, story is I threw a rod in the original motor then found a supposed freshly rebuilt 455 a few states over. Brought it home, saw a dent in oil pan so while freshening up i replaced it with the TA pan with extra quart capacity, also the sump tube and pickup. Thinking it's all good, starts right up, sounds good then.... hear an erratic knock. I suspect the sump pan (not sure what called) is either dented or broken and getting tapped by the rotating mass... I've heard others had same issue. Question is, can i leave motor and tranny bolted together, remove motor mount bolts and lift to remove the pan? Anyone have similar issue? Can it be removed without pulling motor? Thanks!

 

I’m not sure on your setup but....

on my 76 century I removed both the engine mount bolts, jacked it up and removed the pan.

 

Thanks, I guess lifting would be safer, if I chose to jack it could trans pan or front of engine? Or jack on oil pan then block it up to access the pan...

 

What yr Riv?

 

Sorry guys!! Most important...it's a 72!

 

Should be no problem. The steering linkage is in front of the sump. Lift the engine as high as you safely can and drop it out. Rear sump.

 

Thanks!! Was hoping to Jack it instead of having to pull out... again! Barely squeezed it out 1st time leaving the hood on... wasn't looking forward to messing with the awkward hood hinges! Thanks!

 

Should be able to get a Hoist in there just to lift it a little w/o removing the hood.

 

Right or wrong I lift it with a jack and block of wood on the balancer. also have a lift which makes life better on this sort of a job

 

I've done a rear main seal in a driveway by just lifting the engine about 1".

-Bob C.

 

I am assuming the dent is a mild one, no creases, and in the front portion of the pan, Like someone sat the engine on a block of wood. This happens all the time on 455's,

The pan is so close the the rotating assembly in front, anything more than just a very slight impression will cause contact.

Try this first... Take two hammers, and whack the side of the pan, in line with the depression, right at the bend... hit them both at the same time. I have done this before in the shop, it pushes the pan down just enough to clear in the center. Problem solved..

Also, if the dent is deeper, then you might have to weld or epoxy a nut onto it, and pull it out with a slide hammer.

R&R in the car is possible, but I always consider it the last resort..

JW

 

Riviera is center sump oil pan.
Turn the crank if you still have trouble removing the oil pan with the engine in the car, sometimes the counter weights are in the way.

 

Not on a 72

 

I've used Jim's 2 hammer approach before with success .

 

Great Thread! Question: which gaskets do you prefer for oil pan? do you use any rtv on them? Thx.

 

Are you sure it's the pan? Starts right up and sounds good, then an erratic knock doesn't seem right for a dented pan. it should have started knocking right away, unless maybe it wasn't noticed right away. You can feel the front area of the pan when it's running and tell if it;s hitting. Just make sure you can do it safely.

Bob H.