I'm Making a Bold Move

Discussion in 'Race car chassis tech' started by galaxie69, Nov 16, 2005.

  1. galaxie69

    galaxie69 Young Guy - Old School

    My beautiful Century was flooded by Katrina and I have been pondering what to do with it ever since - had I even had a clue this would happen, I would have drove her home. Well, I am leaning ever more towards making it a track racer, perhaps modding it for NASA Pro Racing's American Iron Series. Before I make a mistake, and I understand that this conversion will not be cheap, but I need some idea of chasis and suspension changes that will be needed to get the car to take a decent corner without leaving four black curved lines on the ground. The car must weigh at least 2800 lbs. with driver, which would put the Century at about 2600 lbs.

    I have read the rules and I beleive I can make a decent competetor or at least learn alot along the way... I beleive this will be fun.

    Any input would be greatly appreceated.

    Thanks,
     
  2. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    It all depends on the rules. Getting that down to 2600 pounds is going to be a trick.
    1. Weight
    2. Chassis stiffness
    3. Chassis mods
    4. Drive train
    5. $$$$$$$
     
  3. galaxie69

    galaxie69 Young Guy - Old School

    Actually,

    Even if the weight is not attainable, there is a horsepower/tourque to to weight ratio to make things fair in this particular class.

    Chasis stiffness... I tell you what... Even with a full compartment, jacking that frame from the front produced no noticable twisting - I'm betting the roll cage will add to the overall stiffness...

    And hey... I'm not really out to win or become some expert - this project is about doing it - getting your hands dirty. When I decided to fully dissassemble my first engine (Buick 350) I was scared as hell, When I put it back together and it started right up, I was the poudest person on the planet - though I had no oil pressure and had to pack the oil pump with petroleum jelly afterwards, I had a rush just from playing mechanic virtually alone. My friends would hear glub-glub-glub-vrooooooom vrooooom and see a car that had no engine just a short time ago while I tell them "I did it myself" with the kind of bragging atitude as if I had two supermodels in the back seat and one in the trunk... and I want to do it again.

    What I was really curious about is the aftermarket scene. What's available, what works, what's what, what's adjustable, what's necesary, what's not, what should stay, what should go...suspensine-wise.

    If I could just hear a few pearls of wisdom other than "Don't do it" before I start planning and estimating, I would appreceate any knowlege as there seems to be much about suspensions I do not know.

    Thanks,
     
  4. Ken Mild

    Ken Mild King of 18 Year Resto's

    You say the car must be "at least" 2800 lbs? How could that possibly be a problem for a 73 Century? Aren't those things heavy? Unless I'm thinking of a different Buick.....
     
  5. galaxie69

    galaxie69 Young Guy - Old School

    2800 Pounds?! That's Alotta Woman!!

    I don't beleive getting the Century to 2800 is a problem. What I was trying to say/ask was that if I can get the gutted car to that weight or at least near it, what would I be looking to do as fas as suspension goes? Are Stock A-frames ok or do I need to buy aftermarker? What type of shock/spring suspensions are available?

    I am going to estimate the car is about 3700 lbs. just from my experience with old cars - my Galaxie is 4300 lbs, and it sure acts like it! When the weight comes off the Buick, the stock suspension will not be optimal for the changes in weight and front/rear distribution.

    So I'm asking for a reference or just what to do here or perhaps where to research.

    I don't know if anybody has attempted to make a sports track racer out of an old Buick, but I would rather not be the pioneer in this area if possible. I figure that since this is basically a similar body and chasis used by GM NASCARs in the 70's (when race cars actually shared parts with production models), it should have at least a decent stsiffness and suspension to begin with.

    I'll take whatever information I can get - if little is available, I'll be sure to post whatever I learn. After all, playing with cars may be a labor of love, but its also a labor of education as well.

    Experience is a great teacher, not a kind one.
     
  6. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    I am just going on my oval track experience but we did use a 76 chasis as a starting point and even road raced the car once.

    I do not know the rules for what you are doing so that always makes a difference.

    Frame:

    Box the frame. Most hardtop frames are "C" section and need to have that closed up with mild steel. If it is a convertable frame then it is boxed. Also I think Grand Prix frames are boxed. We started with a convertable frame.

    Roll cage: Get some circle track magazines and check them out. They have all sorts of kits for the cage. Factory stock kits are sturdy and not too expensive. You may have a local track car builder and they could help you. Go to some of the local "bull rings" those inbred hillbillies do some neat stuff on the cheap.

    Front end: Again what do the rules allow. Most "mod" cars run a stock lower A arm and make changes to the upper. If you have to run "stock" uppers then it gets tricky. The stock geometry sucks. You need to increase castor, go to positive camber, and control bump stear. Good luck on the last. If you have to run "stock" upper a arms you will need to relocate the mounts for those. We paid a professional chasis builder for this. Also had to run stock but did not say from what car. Ran a arms off a Pinto! (inbred hill billy trick)

    Springs. Start with 900 pounders in front (used 1100's on 3400# car) and 300 to 400 rear.

    Rear suspension. DO NOT USE POLY BUSHINGS!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If legal use sphericals. Beef up everything as allowed. Rules again make a big difference.

    I still do not think you can break 3000 pound with that car without spending a lot of money. A full mild steel roll cage is not light. Chrome moly cage will be needed to break 3000#. Do not skimp on the cage. I would not drive a race car that did not have a NASCAR style cage. They use a ton of bars in them.
     
  7. galaxie69

    galaxie69 Young Guy - Old School

    Thanks for the Help

    Thanks for the tips - the only question I have is: why oppose poly bushings in the rear? - Too hard? - and what about everywhere else?

    Thanks,
     
  8. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    Poly is problably ok in the front but in the rear it is terrible. Suspension bind is not a pretty thing in a car going around a corner. Whatever end binds up will lose traction at that point instantly (we are talking racing here) We tried poly once lost a second a lap and the car went nuts loose.
     
  9. Daves69

    Daves69 Too many cars too work on

    Byron,
    By the time you remove all the weight you can, the car will probably still weigh more after installing the necessary safety equipment. The Century is very heavy and most of the weight is located in the nose.
    I had a friend try this with two different Camaro bodies and the front was way too heavy. I don't mean to discourage you but you might want to try a lighter car.

    Dave
     
  10. GRIMM

    GRIMM Well-Known Member

    To lighten up the front end you could try fiberglass bumpers and hood.

    it will help, probably not all you need though.

    If it comes to it, inner fender wells can always go too

    also if you havent thought about it, which im sure you have, theres only going to be one person in the car so all other seats are unnecessary.
     
  11. galaxie69

    galaxie69 Young Guy - Old School

    Thanks for the input!

    But according to the rules, the fender wells must stay. But the rules also say I can move the wheelbase 2.5 inches and there are no restrictions on where the motor sits as long as it is in the front of the car - so I could move it back as much as space will allow without altering the firewall. I don't think anybody makes a fiberglass hood unless it matches up to a Monte Carlo or Grand Prix. I have also considered making one myself though I hate messy fiberglass.

    I am also contemplating finding another body; perhaps the fastback Century instead od the coupe.

    I'll keep everyone posted as progress is made.
     

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