How much nitrous can a set of stock rods hold? Also how much horsepower are they supposed to be capable of holding? One more what makes a rod strecth i have heard many different opinions?
Can't tell you much about what the stock rods can handle as far as cyl pressure goes, there are others here that have N2O/Turbo/Supercharged applications that are far more experienced. Rod stretch is usually due to high rpm, not high cylinder pressures. Devon
If you are looking to add nitrous to a stock motor, 125HP is very safe. Over that, "it depends"... -Bob Cunningham
I would say the total motor output of around 700hp is the limit for a stock rod.Now how much power does your motor make without nitrous?That will get you closer. The next thing you need to look at is your tuning ability a poor 125hp nitrous tuneup will be harder on the motor than a good 250hp tuneup.
I understand that any nitrous shot is a no-no with hypereutetic pistons. Is this info correct? Dave Berry
Yeah, hypereutectics and nitrous don't mix. It is my understanding that you are actually much better off with a standard cast piston. I think I have heard of one brave soul who successfully ran a hyper, but I'd try to avoid it... -Bob Cunningham
n2o The motor makes about 600 horses now I have 225 shot on nowand have no problem and was thinking of putting a second stage of 125 on the motor has a good set of flattop pistons with stock rod and crank
tuning What brand nitrous kit is it? What have you done to tune that 225 shot? Are the numbers your running show that your getting 825HP out of it? I sprayed mine. :blast: Never had a problem. BUT you have to remember that the pistons are heavy and sensative to detenation. The pistons will explode N/A if you have problems. My GS was a street car at the time and ran it 1/8 mile. THe motor was a 10.0comp w/255/265 cam that ran 7.23 at 93mph n/a and 6.80 at 101. I spray 125 religiously and tried the 175 hp shot but couldn't keep it straight due to a weak rear suspension setup. I was more worried about my 2004r than the pistons. I ended up pulling the motor after almost 2 years because a "club" 253/270 cam beat out the center 3 cam bearings. If your going to spray a set, make sure to setup the nitrous system right and run a fuel safety switch.
nos kit I run a NOS Big Shot. The car w/driver is 3800lbs runs 11.00 with the 225 shot runs 10.20 so from what i was told its around 600 horses. I dont use the nos the whole pass just in 2nd and third. tuning is just good fuel pump, msd, and 10 degreee retard the car is a still very streetable nothing fancy still has stock rockers
I spray 125 religiously I want to join Rick's church! I hear they have a big problem when the congregation disappears in a cloud of tire smoke at the end of the sermon.
I hit my old 462 for 3 years with the 150 shot, and 2 years with the 200 shot. Stock rods w/ARP bolts and replacement forged pistons, after tearing it down for bearing damage I found 1 piston where the piston pin was galled and the piston would not "float" any more which caused the piston to basically pull apart, ring lands are all screwed up and cracks from the ring land running thru both valve reliefs. Now it's a "throphy" along with a few other items that nitrous and Buick touque destroyed! Gary G.
stock rods & hypereutectics I ve done ok with stock rods(arp bolts are a must), I bent one by blowing a headgasket and hydraulicked a cylinder,but it didnt break and thats a beautiful thing. Ive had hypereutectics in 2 motors. 1st one I killed with entirely too much,im embarrassed to even say. 2nd one was the last one in the car that has cured me of using cheap parts. It was the Silvolite piston with 4 eyebrows,dished. I did not file the rings so it may have pinched a ring. The upper ring land broke about the 12 oclock area looking down with the head off. I was using the 4150 pattern double cross plate with 46 jets squared. The motor was making 175 psi cranking cylinder pressure with TA 210s cam with my iron 67 430 heads.FP was 4.75 psi flowing and 950 bp ,9 degrees taken out. I really crept up on the tuneup coz i was scared of the pistons and I found the breaking point...hope it helps BTW car went 6.72 on that tune....fish
Tune Up! What are you running for jetting and fuel pressure for the 225 shot?? Are you running a fuel safety switch???
setup i run the 82 and 91 the come with the kit with 7lbs of fuel pressure no safety switch i use a one fuel pump for the carb and n2o with seperate regulators and the pressure dont fall below what there set. I think alot of people dont relize how much a good fuel pump is worth.
On the Table.... You got a lot left on the table with that settings. I'm surprised is runs that good being that rich. I would start to lean it out by dropping the fuel pressure in 1/2 pound increments until you get down to abot 5-5 1/2. THen if all still looks good, square the jets between nitrous and fuel and go back to 7psi and work you way back down. On the fuel safety switch, I think they are a must since all it takes is one time for the fuel pump to quit or a fuse to pop or whatever to have a mess up a motor. Whether you burn pistons or break/crack a crank....It's onl y $40.
jetting i leave the car a little rich and take a little extra timing out due 2 the sensitivity of the buick im noticing with the right setting im getting good clean plug readings. with stock rods and cranks i think its good to stay rich and keep the cylinders cool. im just experimenting with timing and retard chips.
It would be better to tune what you are running than add more.....you would be surprised what you pick up. With plugs, you have to learn to read heat over color. THey all burn clean.
De-tuned... There is nothing wrong with being safe. But if you detune a nitrous shot by extra fuel its hard on rings and breaks down oil faster. And adding extra timing retard on top of it just makes it worse. Why not just tune 150 or 180 HP shot? You'll make the same power and it will save you nitrous and your rings. I wouldn't worry about keeping the pistons cool. Burning a piston only happens when the fuel pump can't keep up and it runs lean or the fuel solenoid doesn't open or you took out too much fuel too fast while trying to "tune" it. NOS kits are setup very rich to keep people from having problems. Too rich is a lot better that too lean. Too many people don't have enough fuel pressure or can't hold enough fuel pressure so being rich keeps things together. BUT when you have a proper setup fuel system, you run into a overly rich problem as you creep past the 200hp mark that will slow you down and appear that a larger nitrous shot isn't doing anything. If you get things in tune then the extra 2 degrees retard or so will work as a good safety margine. Ring lands come off pistons as a result of engaging a large shot of nitrous too early or detonation. Gasket pop out the from the same reason but mainly detonation. Look at it this way. Nitrous gets put into the motor at a constant rate. So the lower the rpm, the more nitrous that goes into each cylinder creating more pressure since each cylinder is making more power. In the same sense, as rpm's increase, the motor can take more nitrous since the same amount is dispursed over more pistons at a given time. Just because you try more nitrous at a higher rpm doesn't mean it will take it. THere are volume and breathing limits that will hold you to a given amount. That is why you see insa :TU: ne cams on nitrous motors so they can spin them higher and push more nitrous thru them. It is a counter-acting effect though since you tend to kill so much motor HP with excessive cam size. Not to mention oversized carbs and headers to work at higher rpms that kill naturally aspirated power also. So the trick is finding the line where making more nitrous work isn't costing you more than your making. Nitrous increases a motors Volumetric Effeciecy so finding what it takes to make that work in your favor is what works best.
n2o I agree with what your saying and its all a matter of who you ask some have told me leave the pressure up others such as your self turn it down. So do you think that a stock rod/crank motor can handle the hit of the spray with low fuel pressure. Correct me if im wrong turn the pressure down only leans out the system. Also the reason i take out the timing is this a buick has plenty of brute torque off the line.So getting the car to leave and 60ft is no problem. So when a car has its timing turned to low it wont move very fast on low end but top it will begin to move.The same way if its timing is too high it will kick back at starting detonate under a load and eventually break. Take that with nitrous at top end you dont need the torque you need the horsepower so if the motors cylinders are full to much timing its fighting against itself take out some its going to make more power and do less wear and tear and will spin faster and run faster! Going back 2 fuel pressure if you dont have the fuel volume all the pressure a pump can make is useless. The jet is only going to let so much in. People are turning down the pressure without having enough volume at the selenoid. Which will only cuase a disaster!
