How do I get the bolts into...

Discussion in 'V-8 Buick Powered Regals' started by gs_jimmy, Nov 11, 2010.

  1. gs_jimmy

    gs_jimmy Well-Known Member

    OK, I'm installing the BBB into the GN body. Got everything lined up & drilled, but can only get 1 bolt in each motor mount. What's the trick here? THe GS has access holes in the frame, so little to no problems there.

    THe Regal frame (metric) doesn't have those provisions & I can't get any other bolts started.

    My thought is to drop the lower A-Arms (remove shocks & spindles & springs) to get at the mounts threw the spring pockets. This will obviously work as the spring upper mount is about the size of your head.

    I didn't have this problem with the BBC frame stands, or with the SBB (V-6) stands.

    THoughts?


    THe other thing is how far back to mount the engine. I have it set all the way back to the firewall, leaving about an 1/8 inch of space for the trans dipstick to clear. Also, how much trimming will need to be done on the "suitcase"? I've got a fiberglass kit to "repair" the new opening. Just wondering how much to remove.

    Thanks,

    Jim
     
  2. Rusty

    Rusty Dragbikes Rock !

    I took the 350 out of my 71' GS in lew of a Big Block and put the 350 in an 86' Regal, I did this in 2006 and I remember having trouble getting nuts on the bolts as well, but I don't remember how I resolved it other than I think going through the opening inside the lower A arm.

    I aligned my motor mount frame pads by lowering the engine and trans together into it with the pads pinned to the mounts. I bolted up the trans support in back then just hoisted the engine and positioned it until I had the position about even on the frame, then with a marker I circled where the frame pad holes were resting on the frame to drill.

    I then pulled the engine and trans back out to work on it, and drilled the holes, but I do remember also struggling to get nuts on, and I think I settled on just 2 bolts per side, as the frame pad was so close in the rear that I wouldn't be able to get a nut on anyway inside the frame. I was using the frame pads from my 71' GS though, so aftermarket pad mounts may give you that offset needed. I figure it will be ok, as it's not a high horsepower set up anyway. I know I probably wouldn't have had to drill at all if I'd found 3.8 stock frame pads, but my Regal originally had that stinkin Olds 307 in it.
    Good Luck.
    Russ
     
  3. gs_jimmy

    gs_jimmy Well-Known Member

    Thanks Russ, did mine exactly the way you said. No problems, except those NKSAJ*&S@A..D! bolts :Dou:

    I'm going to pick up a set of spring compressors on Friday to solve this dilema once & for all. Hate to tear apart a fresh suspension, oh well.

    Figure with the torque this engine makes (ate a Muncie already) that I should probly put in all of the bolts! :laugh:

    JIM
     
  4. monkeyy337

    monkeyy337 monkeyy337

    Put grade 8 studs in the mounts (and lock tite) so you only have to fool with the nuts. Then using a swivel socket and going up through the lower "A" arms area use nuts that have the washer attached to them and install the nuts but do not tighten them up tight until you get the engine on the mounts. It also helps to put a small strip of masking tape around the nut and socket so the nut doesn't keep falling out. It took me 4 hours to do this because I didn't have a lift to raise the car but had to lay on my back with the car jacked up. My Regal also once had a BBC motor and the mounts were easy to install but not the BBB mounts. I though I was going to go crazy before I got the Buick mounts installed. Good luck.
     
  5. regal81455

    regal81455 Well-Known Member

    If you intend on staying with a BBB just weld them in - thats how mine were done.
     
  6. v8regalowner

    v8regalowner Silver level contributor

    lol i have to admit after hours of frustration, mine are welded in too.
     
  7. regal81455

    regal81455 Well-Known Member

    :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
     
  8. gs_jimmy

    gs_jimmy Well-Known Member

    Pulled the DR side apart and was able to get into the area and get bolts into the mount (2 hours of FUN). Still need to tear down the pass side & reassemble. Think I'll drop the engine back in befroe I close everything up.

    Hope the exaust goes "smoother".

    :mad:
     
  9. v8regalowner

    v8regalowner Silver level contributor

    remember if you are using headers they have to go in before the engine does. if your using manifolds then you can put them on after.
     
  10. gs_jimmy

    gs_jimmy Well-Known Member

    Dropped the whole thing in w/manifolds on it. Marked the frame pads.....then the trouble started!

    Trying to complete the engine swap this weekend, then just the hooking up part to do.

    jim
     
  11. gs_jimmy

    gs_jimmy Well-Known Member

    Got the driver side done. 4 hours of fartin' around. Had to use all my mechanic words, twice. Now onto the pass side!

    Might get it installed over the weekend. Friday I have purse duty at the mall, yea!

    Jim
     
  12. gs_jimmy

    gs_jimmy Well-Known Member

    Re: How do I... I HAVE THE ANSWER

    Well after 10+ hours of swearing and removing/reinstalling the front suspension (a job I said I'd never do again) the mounts are fully installed!

    Heck, I even returned the spring compressor to my buddy.

    Anyway, it gets easier from this point. Exhaust, wiring, final hook up's. Still have to pull the front end one more time to reinstall the heater box I took out to run the BBC in it.

    I'll start a build thread w/pic's over the weekend.

    Looks like the GS is going to take a long nap (like 2 years) before that is up & running again (LSx motor, FI, OD).

    Jim
     
  13. v8regalowner

    v8regalowner Silver level contributor

    Re: How do I... I HAVE THE ANSWER

    keep in mind if its an ac car you may have to alter the heater box a bit to make it fit again. mine is long gone. glad to here its all mounted up. that actually is the hardest part. its all downhill from there.
     
  14. gs_jimmy

    gs_jimmy Well-Known Member

    Yeah, I'm figuring on having to trim up the box a bit. It's a real TURBO car box, but already had a couple holes in it when I got it. Should clean up ok otherwise.

    Trans mount is next, then I'll pull off the front end again to do the rest & test fire it.

    Jim
     
  15. Bar50

    Bar50 Well-Known Member

    I have cut the front of the engine craddle/cross member where the fuel lines exit the frame larger to access the bolts. Also cut slots in the front of the frame in the same area, just large enough to fit a boxed end wrench with a speed nut. I have drag raced all the cars I did this too, some with 455 Pontiacs, a few with 455 Olds (one with LOTS of Nitrous), and several 455 Buicks, no problems at all.
     
  16. STAGE-2 TORQUE

    STAGE-2 TORQUE STAGE-1 Buick "494Stroker" in 2021


    ... Mine as well. lol:TU:
     
  17. STAGE-2 TORQUE

    STAGE-2 TORQUE STAGE-1 Buick "494Stroker" in 2021


    On all 3 0f my Buick 455 Regals, I used a SWIVEL rachet to install the nut/bolt set ... by going into the fuel line's oblong chassis holes.:TU:
     
  18. gs_jimmy

    gs_jimmy Well-Known Member

    OK, no good job goes unpunished.

    After getting EVERYTHING put back together on the suspension, I went to install the trans x-member tonight and found that the motor shifted when I was drilling in the mounts. Tail of the trans was cocked to the drivers side and no amount of twisting was going to put it into the right position. :mad:

    SO, everything just was ripped back apart and now I'm too close to existing mounting holes to redrill. Good thing I have a welder. Going to add in some plate on the backsideand weld up the holes. Stronger that way anyhow.

    Course now I HAVE TO REDO the same work again.

    This time the trans will be mounted in the x-member prior to marking the motor mount.
     
  19. gs_jimmy

    gs_jimmy Well-Known Member

    Slow progress

    Waiting on parts.

    Over the weekend I was able to bolt up the turbo and accessory bracket. Need to make a block off plate for the fuel pump access, and run a fuel line to the carb. It appears that the turbo oil feed line is going to bolt up just fine, only I need a 90* elbow to finish it up.

    I have to drill a 455 valve cover to do the return from the turbo, but still need to figure out what size bit to use (anybody?). The turbo side went together very easy as the 231, 350 & 455 heads all accept the stock turbo bracket.

    JD (turbobuick.com) is supplyin' must of the needed "bits & pieces" to get the serp system workin' and I already have the PS pump & reservior on hand. I'm planning on building a log style pass side exhaust manifold to plumb into the Exhaust feed side of the turbo. I have a stock crossover from a 231, and am hoping it will bolt up on the DR side manifold.

    I do need to find these "do it yourself" rings for welding up exhast pipe. Have the wire feed, but no way to hold everything "square" for welding. (Will be using my chop saw to cut the angles).

    I also found that the down pipe is too short by around 3.5" due to the V8 length. Not too big of a deal, but nee to know exactly how big (diameter) a stock pipe is, I believe it's 2.5 inch.

    Next problem is going to be the height of the engine at the top of the turbo. I'm guessing around 1 - 1.5 inches, or the deck height of the 455 as compared to a 231. I'm thinking that I coud cut & weld the cross member to gain this needed real estate. My oil pan has about that much clearance under it right now.

    Next up is going to be fuel delivery. I have a brand new cam sensor, so I could do the Ford DFI (?) spark system w/ crank driver reluctor wheel for input. That would also cure any burnt wires from my spark plugs hitting a hot downpipe. Thoughts?

    Jim
     
  20. regal81455

    regal81455 Well-Known Member

    Re: Slow progress

    I can help you on the serpentine setup it terms of how it all goes together - I made a few modifications to make it work better for the 455 setup. You can see them in my thread. http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=202509

    Also, try tricktools.com for your exhaust ring clamps.
     

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