Holley HP1000

Discussion in 'Holley' started by pwm72, Jul 28, 2007.

  1. 7 skylark 1

    7 skylark 1 Well-Known Member

    if you look at the cover of your holley book, in the cut away picture of the carb under the front squirter you can see the check valve i'm talking about. if you remove the squirter and look down the hole you can see it, then turn the carb upside down it should fall out. i would stick with the standard .110 neeedle and seats. from what i remember reading they are good to 600hp. when you get it all back together try running manifold vacuum to your vacuum advance, that should help clean up your idle(as long as you don't have fuel dripping out any where). have you traced the holes in the throttle plate to see where they go ?
     
  2. pwm72

    pwm72 Well-Known Member

    Yeah Dave, I checked it out and there are little "weights" under the squirters (with a tapered end).
    Regarding those holes, they were just drilled on the secondary side and I pulled the baseplate off the carb today and ran a wire through them and they terminate in the same well as the transfer slot. So since I have them, should I expose even less of the transfer slot than .020? Apparently the guy I bought this carb from ran a pretty big cam.
    Thoughts?
     
  3. 7 skylark 1

    7 skylark 1 Well-Known Member

  4. SC72Buick

    SC72Buick SC72Buick

    The actual Holleys do have PV blowout protection, but that is a purple Pro Form baseplate:grin:
     
  5. SC72Buick

    SC72Buick SC72Buick

    Hey Paul,
    Give me a call at Holley Tech 866-464-6553 and ask for Mike. We are open 8:00-5:00 CST (Mon-Fri). I can give you all the original Holley bleed sizes for the 1000HP. It is hard to say what is up with the ProForm blocks and baseplate you have. I would definately replace the metering block and fuel bowl gaskets. These are good for maybe 3-4 times on and off with the block then they need to be replaced to make sure they seal. Lets get the carb set all back up to factory Holley specs and start from scratch. What is the List number on the side of the main body????

    Thanks, Mike
     
  6. pwm72

    pwm72 Well-Known Member

    Hey Mike, sorry been traveling all week for work, just getting back on the boards now. I will try calling next week if you don't mind unless I can call this weekend. I actually sent a message to Holley Tech assistance a few months ago with no response (thru the holley website). I would love to set the carb back up to out of the box and take it from there.
    The carb number is LIST 80514 HP Series and it is the annular booster model. Under that is shows 1908. On the top of the air horn is has 6R-7880 B.
    Any info would be GREATLY appreciated.
    Thanks much!
     
  7. pwm72

    pwm72 Well-Known Member

    Thought I would provide a little update on my issue. I had been speaking to Mike Kise from this board (he works at Holley) and he has helped tremendously...even sent me a new baseplate.

    Anyway, I totally went through the entire carb and replaced all that I could so that I knew what I was working with. New gaskets, needle and seats, jets, powervalves, pump diaphragms, shooters, shooter screws, you name it.

    With info from Mike (thanks again!) I sent it up as close to back to "out of the box" as I could. I am happy to report that the car starts, idles and drives. The idle mixture screws even work as they should now.

    I had the car out on the weekend and there was an off idle stumble. So reading my holley book it suggests going up a shooter size. So my current combo is now:
    84 jets Primary
    88 jets Secondary
    6.5 power valves front and rear
    32 squirter primary
    36 squirter secondary
    Pink pump cam in the front and the brown cam on the 50cc pump in the rear.

    My ignition is GM HEI w/ MSD 6AL, 14* initial with 20* mechanical all in my 2500rpm. No vacuum advance.

    I have a TA 288/94 cam and have a steady 10hg of vacuum at idle in gear.
    I just changed the plugs (running AC r43TS)

    I had the car back out tonight after switching the front squirter and it seems to have helped the stumble a little, but I noticed that the stumble becomes much more pronounced as the car warms up. I was driving for about 10 minutes and every stop sign or light, I could not pull away cleanly. Once above about 2000rpm, watch out...but below that, I had a serious stumble. It does not seem to be popping back through the carb though as it was in the past.

    Any idea what would cause the stumble to get worse as the car heats up under load?
     
  8. 70aqua_custom

    70aqua_custom Well-Known Member

    no idea. It should need more fuel when it's cold. :Do No: but if it was me I'd increase the pump shot some more. I went through this with a Holley 750 DP and when I got it right she would smoke the tires instead of popping out of the carb.
     
  9. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    Paul,
    From what I see your problem is not the carb. (unless the carb is total FUBAR)
    As far as I can tell no one is running that much fuel into what is a fairly mild motor. The biggest jets I ever ran with the 950 QuickFuel was 85's with power valves and that was very rich. Many setups are going with around 90 on the secondaries with no power valve. This is on motors with more cam, heads and compression than you have. The cam you are running should pull more than 10 inches of vacuum.

    What do your plugs look like. If they are not brown (I think they should be black) then you need to look for something else. The only thing that makes sense to me is a big vacuum leak. If you have white or light colored plugs it has to be a leak.

    Wish you were close enough to just bolt on my carb but no such luck.

    Check to see if the carb pad on the manifold is flat.

    Be careful with this one, spray either at the base of the carb and see if the idle jumps. If nothing there try this where the manifold and heads meet.

    Crank the initial up to 20 degrees and see if the stumble goes away, will not hurt anything in low gear just testing for throttle response.

    Post pics of the plugs you took out.
     
  10. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Paul,
    I agree with Doug, you have a vacuum leak somewhere, maybe in the valley. Your SP1 may not fit right. You should have at least 13-14" of vacuum. My cam is 228/246, 118 LSA and I have 16" in gear at a 750 RPM idle.
     
  11. 7 skylark 1

    7 skylark 1 Well-Known Member

    i would try more initial timing. also try a blue or green pump cam on the primary. i run the 113 cam and have 13" vacuum. the more initial timing i give it the better it gets. i just locked out the advance and so far i am very happy with it.
     
  12. pwm72

    pwm72 Well-Known Member

    Thanks as always for the suggestions guys. I tried the ether trick (Starting fluid...right?) last night and did not detect any change in idle. I tried around the base of the carb and along where the heads/intake mate.

    Stupid question for you though...on those of you running a big holley on an SP1, what are you doing to plug the PCV hole in the rear of the intake? Does your Holley have a vacuum port on the baseplate for the PCV? I have one baseplate (billet aftermarket) that has the vacuum port and one (stock Holley) that does not have the vacuum port.

    Doug, I can post pics of the plugs that I have taken out, but I am not sure they will hold much of a key...they are really pretty black, but if you go back to my first post, the car was running so rich that you could not stand in the garage. I have not run the car much since I got the carb set properly and it has only been with the new plugs...and they appear white. I can post pics, but it is only after about 10 mins running time. Not sure if that has any value or not.
     
  13. pwm72

    pwm72 Well-Known Member

    Fow what it's worth, here are two pics of a spark plug with about 20 minutes run time on them...Took it out again today and I "think" I can hear a whistle when I boot into it. So I think the vacuum leak may be the issue. Would it whistle?
    I pulled a few plugs and they all looked the same.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Thoughts?
     
  14. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member


    Yes it would, find out where the whistle is coming from and you'll find the leak. Leave the vacuum gauge connected to the running engine. It will climb when you get near the leak with light oil or whatever you're spraying.
     
  15. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    Paul,
    I can't get anything from the plugs either. I am finding out that plug reading is so much different now with unleaded fuel that it is a waste of time. I just spent all day driving my car with an O2 sensor. The plugs are looking "good" and I am running 11 to 12 on the air fuel ratio. Way rich. Put it on the dyno and pulled some interesting numbers and learned a lot. Will share in a separate thread.

    On thing I am now sure of. There is no way you can use the size jets you are trying. I was running 82 primary and 84 secondary and you see the numbers.

    Now the pcv hole is where the pcv valve goes. It has a rubber grommet pcv valve goes in and connects to a big inlet at the base of the carb. I was going to ask you if you had checked the pcv valve. Those things can cause all sorts of problems. I think the next thing to try is block off every vacuum source, power brakes, distrubutor, pcv, etc. See if that brings the vacuum up. If it does we are making progress. Let us know. I really want this thing to work for you.
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2007
  16. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor


    Reading plugs with today's gasoline is much less fruitful than yesteryear.

    The key to reading a plug is to know how it was behaving at W.O.T., and you can't see this by looking at a set after some driving around time. The trick to getting a good reading is to hit it hard, wide open throttle...then immediate shutdown so that part-throttle mixtures don't screw up the color. This might give you more insight.

    Devon
     

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