Holley float adjustment

Im beating my brains out with this. I should know this, but I admit carbs arent my strong spot. Carb in question is an 850 double pump, mech secondary. When adjusting the floats, you turn counter clockwise to raise the float and clockwise to lower it correct? If im right, wouldnt that be reversed for the secondaries? Seeing as how its backwards from the front? I cant find anywhere that says anything about it.

 

> loosen top screw just a little , like 1/8 turn , not much . just enough to unlock .
> take a 5/8" ( memory ) wrench :
clockwise pushes the needle and seat down which in turn pushes the float lower .
counter clockwise just the reverse of course .
same front n back .
> with wrench still on nut and holding it in position retighten lock screw .
> idle engine up till idle/engine smooths out then gas should just touch threads in sight hole . with motor rockin' back n forth you will not get a good read on that . and some prefer a little more or a little lower fuel level - depends what you want .

 

you're overthinking it .. from a fixed perspective, 180* rotation along the horizontal plane on a top or bottom surface does not reverse thread orientation.

 

Thanks for the info guys. We got that taken care of. I have a real bad bog when stabbing it wide open. Its in the secondaries. Response feels pretty crisp in the primary side. With the car up to temp in the garage, if I kick it wide open, it will almost quit. If I ease into the secondaries, its ok. From some reading ive done, most say you need to move up on squirter size. It has a 37 in the rear now, which is fairly big. I need to have a bunch here for trail and error, but they arent that cheap to buy. Should I try going up, or is my bog maybe cause by too big of a squirter?

 

850DP = #4781 carb number
those are a four corner idle carb - it has rear idle screws correct ? and rear power valve ?
I was thinking maybe the shooter was too big also when I first read it ( I guess the word bog just translates to flood in my mind ) , i'll check some notes in am .
but then got thinking maybe the secondary blades could be opening too fast ? that would translate to give you a not enough fuel from shooter lean feel maybe ? secondary linkage look ok ?

 

Del, I believe its an older carb. Only 2 corner idle. Linkage all looks good. Carb is pretty fresh rebuilt by a local guy. Im not getting any popping or backfire, just wants to die. Does it under load, or setting.

 

Brandon -
> check carb list# on choke housing to be sure what we are lookin at . and see if there is a dash-3 or dash-2 or whatever after the 4781 number .
> I am pretty sure that all 4781's ( and 4779's 750cfm ) are 4 corner AND its not a surprise that the back block could have been replaced with an incorrect one . been there , got one . lookin at the QFT block kit for that one as a matter of fact . and that should have the 50cc pump ( and correct arm etc ) on rear fuel bowl .
> 4781 specs from holley catalog : primary side - jets 80 , power valve 65 , shooter 35 early models , 31 later models . secondary side - jets 80 early models , 78 later models , power valve 65 , shooter 31 .
> misc holley book info : sec starts to open when primary blades are open at 40 degrees ( and if someone has "adjusted" the left side sec link connected to primary shaft linkage that could be working too early or late also ) , sec pump arm clearance is .015 at wide open throttle ( WOT ) , ck pump cam - position one opens early ( so it gives you a shot of fuel early ) and recommended for engines that idle 600-800 rpm - position two or three for motors that idle 1000+ . cam colors you'll have to do your homework on , ran outa time . 3 size jump recommended for shooter changes ( up or down ) and if you go over a 40 then you should use the hollow hi-flow shooter hold down screw .
> and yes , if not back firing but stumbling then they did mention that going up a little in shooter size could help .
> and all this is why I don't try and guesstimate my holley settings when I redo one - back to stock recommended parts and setting as best as possible when i sell one , go from there after install .

 

Del, thanks for the info. The carb is chokeless with no air horn. I cant find the list number on it. Not sure where its stamped on these. Of course the main body may have been changed anyway so who knows. Does seem strange that its only 2 corner idle. You would think a chokeless carb would be a 4150 series, and would be 4 corner. But like you said, may not be the right one. Pump cam is the number 1 spot. 31 shooter in front, and 37 in the rear. ill try moving up to a 40 in the rear, and get the pump cam kit.

 

on the top ( front left corner I think ) of the base plate look for a number - sometimes it'll be stamped 4781 or 4781 with some other numbers . you can also measure the the bottom throttle bore diameters . i'll check info in a sec .
edit : yep front left on mine says 47812 right next to the mounting bolt hole . and the throttle bore diameter is 1-3/4" .

 

I have 71803 up in that left corner. Who knows what the deal is with carb. this

 

holley may have used dif numbers on some or it may be some kinda manufacturing number . but it did look like only the 850's had that bore size .
anyway - all the basic dbl pump style holley's should react the same to similar adjustments . so even if its not an 850 your adjustments and results should be fairly uniform .

 

Thanks for the help Del. Its appreciated. I ordered some parts, Should be here Monday. Jet extensions and float, Gaskets, 42 shooters, and pump cam kit. Ill let you know where that puts me.

 

Brandon - just thinking , do you mean the choke tower etc was machined down to remove - or - it was a carb built with no choke like the HP series holley's ? that'll make a dif on part number but not in general set-up steps and results .

 

Del, Im honestly not sure. It looks like the main body could have been setup with a choke, but im just not sure. I assumed it was built this way, but maybe not.

 

that looks like a standard holley that's had the choke machined down . did a decent job , looks clean , some are pretty hacked up lookin . a KN stubstack may be beneficial to try out , might get a little extra flow . there may be some numbers on the metering blocks - ? - but that's kinda voodoo science getting those to match up to any info in my info books .