A buddy came over today to help me get started on my winter project. We took the hood off my 71 350 4-speed car. Still trying to buy a set of big-valve converted heads but not finding any available or I am a day late and a dollar short. So, I'm going to pull the motor because I'm sure several of the manifold bolts will break. While I'm at it, I will regasket my 92K original 71 350 and swap the Muncie for an M22Z. I figure I'll use the TA front and rear seals and ditch the rope seals. While I'm at it, check the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing and pilot bushing. It holds good oil pressure hot so I'm not going to take the front cover/oil pump apart unless I see something that warrants it. Is there anything else I should check? Rods, bearings? Go ahead and swap cams? I want to improve driveability and don't intend to race it. The original M21 sucked with 3.08 gears so the M22Z should really wake it up. Me and my buddy, goofing with hookers and a tranny that I'm going to install this winter.
What’s the gear ratio difference between the transmissions? I kinda think a 3.23 or 3.42 would give more fun factor depending on diameter of rear tires. , distributor recurve kit is inexpensive, follow Larry’s post on retiming. Adjusting secondary air flaps or other carb tweak should improve performance also. I would leave bearings alone since you said oil pressure is good and no noises from engine. You can do the oil pickup passage modification, drill it to 1/2 inch and get a 5/8 pickup tube. . If you get into a cam swap , I like the crower level 3 and degree 4 advanced since you have the lower compression engine. You may or may not have steel head gaskets. (Thinner).if not or your not going to replace with steel ones, I would consider milling heads .030 atleast if you need to pull heads. That should bump compression up from 8.2 to 8.75. Inspect the front cam bearing if you do a cam swap. Take a good look at the harmonic balancer. You may want to consider a rebuild in the future depending on condition. It is probably 50 years old. Valve springs and seals would be a good idea. Looks like it will be a fun project. Good luck https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/power-timing-your-buick-v8.63475/
I have ported and big valves heads in my sbb. BUT that was before the Alu head option. Unless you have a great machine shop deal or you force air into the engine(boost) , I would consider the TA alu heads. I know they not cheap but the power is really in the heads.. ( + cam/ intake)
Cam swap or not probably will need a timing chain set and maybe a fresh set of valve springs because of the 4 speed. Possibly some TA Stage 1 replacement springs? Good idea on the new seals and gaskets while it is out. I agree, don't touch the oil pump unless it is leaky. I wouldn't put any cam bigger than the suggested Crower L3 (210*I/220*E/112*LSA) even if you bump the compression up. I'd even consider a TA 112, 210*I/215*E/110*LSA. Slightly smaller but the tighter LSA and less exhaust will really work well since you are running the headers. The smaller cams and fresh springs will let you rev with nice power to 5000+. If you are not racing how it feels down low and in the midrange is what counts on the street.
I would check the rod and main bearings for condition considering the mileage. If they look "normal" then I'd check the backside of the bearing shell to see if they're stock size, if they are not, there will be a marking such as .001 or .010 .020 etc. Then I'd order new bearings the exact same size.
I came with an M21 (2.20 first gear) but I swapped in an M20 (2.52 first gear) which really helped. That change was equivalent to going to 3.51 rear gears. The M22Z has a 2.98 first gear so that will be like going to 4.15 rear gears and still being able to cruise 75MPH and not break 3,000 RPM. I've already recurved it and timed it to 34° all in. That, swaybars, boxed control arms and quick-ratio steering were my first upgrades. The carb is currently a Holley QJ replacement. I'm going to build a 72 stick QJ for it in the near future from the Ruggles book. This is a low-buck effort. While I would love to have the TA heads, they would be way overkill for this project. I busted the budget on this car when I bought the M22Z. That is, unless a set falls in my lap for a bargain. I figured the timing chain but forgot to mention it. Definitely a street car and down low. That's the idea behind the M22Z. I'm still on the fence about this or a 455 swap. I've got a perfectly good 70 455 that I pulled from my Stage 1 (non-Stage heads) 4-5 years ago. It needs a regasketing on the pan, valve covers along with a good cleaning and fresh paint. I'd only need frame pads, headers, clutch, flywheel and pressure plate to make it functional swap. 455 with a M22Z. Hehe! I figured as long as the pan is off, might as well check them, right? I've always thought stick cars were harder on thrust bearings than automatics. I don't believe the motor has ever been apart or at least not in the last 40 years. There is undercoating on some parts of the engine that I don't think would have been there if it had ever been apart. It doesn't even have an oil booster plate.
Started pulling things off, draining the antifreeze, slow going as I'm in no hurry to get into the pain of broken bolts.
