Going to try hydroboost

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by sailbrd, Jun 28, 2010.

  1. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    Hopefully this thread will help us all add one of these boosters if needed. Like a lot of us I cannot get enough vacuum to make the brakes work worth a device that holds back water. I thought about going manual but this is a heavy street car. So here goes.

    Went to the yard and got a complete system out of an Astro Van. Ordered a billet aluminium adaptor from and ebay vendor. I have some -6 AN stuff with teflon hose and a few other misc. pieces.

    Cost so far:
    booster and stuff from Astro: $50
    adaptor from ebay: $80

    The first problem I see is the rod that will attach to the brake pedal. I will need to change that. Anyone out there know how this is done?

    I will start to post some pictures of parts tomorrow.
     
  2. rack-attack

    rack-attack Well-Known Member

    This is a cool project and I would like to see the outcome.

    I will have the same problem to deal with shortly. I am 99% sure I will go the electric route.......

    But maybe your success (I hope:bla: ) will persuade me....
     
  3. carmantx

    carmantx Never Surrender

    Interesting. Anxious to see how this goes.

    Seems like most of the GN and T-types go to vacuum system to replace the hydroboost. Tyler's race car has stock disc/drum system with manual aluminum master cylinder and it does a great job. When I get to drive it (which isn't much, just to warm it up or back out of trailer) the pedal is very easy to use. Very similar to power assisted.

    Anyway, good luck with this. Sounds like a fun project.
     
  4. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    Actually the GN groups replace the Powermaster on the 86 87 's. Reason is it can have a total failure! Still have ours with some new parts in it. I think the 84, 85 GN's had hydroboost.

    I went back and forth about going to manual. Probably would have gone that way except my daughter likes to drive it. The princess does not like manual anything. :laugh:

    Found a good source for parts: http://www.tallonhydraulics.com/sto...&cPath=42_14&zenid=2vdlltfemo3urs26fc6agnl492
     
  5. GStage1

    GStage1 Always looking for parts!

  6. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

  7. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    stolen from the Pontiac guys
    I am doing this because there just isn't enough information in one spot on hydroboost brakes. Here
    http://www.azbronco.org/tech11.htm
    http://www.vancopbs.com/hbindex.htm
    http://www.members.tripod.com/surfmac/21.html



    http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.co...rsteering.html
    http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/ar....jsp?id=264075


    This one is not really on Hydroboost, but folks talking about different Master Cylinders they have used with their different set-ups. I'll combine that with some of my Hydroboost links that haven't been posted!
    Here ya go:

    http://www.thehollisterroadcompany.com/hydroboost.html
    Good info on installing and hoses and adapters
    ------------
    http://www.classicperform.com/Instru...PDF/CP3022.pdf
    PDF file of Classic Performance' installation instructions. Has some good general info on bleeding them
    ------------
    http://chevroletforum.com/forum/arch...php/t-572.html
    Some more info on bleeding them etc.
    ------------
    http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8530
    INfo on a guys install in a newer Tahoe. He bought the flat bracket off of ebay.
    ------------
    http://www.scribd.com/doc/6829161/Op...-of-HYDROBOOST
    That one's kinda cool. It is a repair and troubleshooting document. Shows how they work.
    ------------
    http://www.angryamerica.com/chevelles/hydroboost.html
    This guy bought the kit and installed it. Gives some info on the hoses.
    ------------
    http://classicbroncos.com/forums/arc...p?t-92316.html
    They do this swap a lot in Early Broncos. Here is a Very informative thread. He too has some adapter hose info...
    ------------
    http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...d.php?t=445079
    This guy makes a note of the problem of not hooking up the return line correctly and how it made his brakes drag..

    http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...roboost+Brakes
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2010
  8. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    Just got my parts from Tallon Hydrolics. The billet Aluminium adaptor is very nice. They also include the special tool for removing the strange nut that holds the bracket on the booster.

    Looking for some information on how to remove the "staked" stock peddle rod. I think I should be good on everything else.
     
  9. KFD

    KFD Well-Known Member

    I have always wondered about using a HB unit off an early eighties Riviera or Eldorado. I had a Riv for about five minutes, and I contemplated taking the pedal pushrod, Booster/Master and pump assembly... It's all buick right!

    KFD
     
  10. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    Still looking for my camera! Need to take pictures. I am finding that changing a staked rod is a real pain. I am working with Butch at Tallon on the exact rod length needed for A-bodies. The stock length of rod and clevis is about 6 3/4 inches. I am very impressed with Tallon Hydrolics. Butch is a hot rodder and is usually the one to answer the phone.
     
  11. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    Found camera... it was in the car. Anyway here is a picture of the hydroboost with the Tallon adaptor. The big problem is the peddle rod that needs to be changed.
     

    Attached Files:

  12. shang442

    shang442 Member

    I just went through the pedal rod change. Tallon also sells replacement threaded pedal rods.

    If you mount the hydroboost in a vice and give it about 3 good yanks with a slide hammer, the rod will pop right out. The replacement rod will tap back in place and be just fine. I was able to suspend my HB from just the replacement rod and bounce it up and down ... that new rod is not coming out. No binding, no problems.

    Here is a more lengthy write up I did on that subject on the Olds board if you want to read: (you'll have to correct, still don't have enough posts to post links yet)

    www realoldspower com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=69008
     
  13. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    Had no luck removing the pedal rod. Sent to Tallon and should get it back tomorrow. This is the hardest part of the change so far. Will have some more soon.
     
  14. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    I found the worst part of the job so far.... getting the dam* booster off. Those have to be the 4 hardest nuts to get to on the whole car. Should have pulled the motor first :laugh: Anyway got it off and will have some new pictures soon.
     
  15. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    Starting to put the new unit in. Here is the booster with the new rod on it. You do need to restake the unit. Have to disagree that you can just pop it back in and ready to go. Was easy to do just take a slightly dull chisel and top the notch on each side a few times until it feels tight.
     

    Attached Files:

  16. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    Complete booster and master cylinder. First problem is the combination valve will not fit in the car with stock bracket.
     

    Attached Files:

  17. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    So took off the bracket, cut off the hanger. Turned the bracket around and welded it back together. I know after seeing these pictures someone will want to hire me for my welding skills. :idea2:
     

    Attached Files:

  18. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    Now for a really stupid question. On this master cylinder is which is the feed for the front brakes? Does not matter yet but will when I start making lines.
     
  19. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    The hardest parts of this project. Getting the old booster off. Putting the new booster on.

    The problem with putting on the new booster is that the studs for the booster are welded into the firewall. The hydroboost is built with the studs on the booster bracket and bolts from the inside of the car. As you look at the firewall the only nut easy to apply is the top left. The bottom right needs to have the boss that holds the hydrobbost together ground a bit for access. The bottom left gave me an excuse to by the new Koblolt ratchet set. This set of tools uses socket that will let the bolt go through the center of the socket and works in very tight areas. Cool tools. The top left I am still working on. Have an idea for that.

    I should have it all put together today.
     
  20. sailbrd

    sailbrd Well-Known Member

    Picture of bench bleed. Have all of the new lines made and connected. Do not see any leaks so far. Gravity bleed the front brakes will do the rear tomorrow.

    Will have the list of things you have to do to work air out of the system soon.

    Strange thing I noticed. The clevis and rod line up on the top hole of the brake pedal arm. I thought the lower hole was for power brakes?
     

    Attached Files:

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