Yup, been there done that, would have bought the tee shirt if there was one:laugh: Got to have sticky tires with all that Buick torque. You have a high 14 second car if you can get the 60' under 2 seconds. I would have tried slowing the mechanical advance down with stiffer springs. Same with secondaries. That 60' time is very important. One tenth in 60' can equal two tenths at the other end. Too bad you couldn't have borrowed a set of MT Drag radials. I would have loaned you mine if you were closer.
the ony thing you need to do right now is get a set of drag radials, mickey thompson or M&H are the best IMO, and get back out there and try again. you'll probably want to play around with air pressure but you'll find that your times get way better just from the tire. I run 12.20s in the 2010 camaro ss (exhaust, cold air intake and tune!) with stock pirelli street tires but i have a manual and i use the hell out of the clutch to make up for the lack of traction. my best 60 there is a 1.89. I think in your case with the auto and on drag radials if you launch like you mean it you should be able to get into the 1.6-1.8 range without too much trouble. THEN, you can start tinkering with everything else to get your times even further down!
Good point on the timing Larry! I never would have considered that, but Im a newbe at this, LOL I'll put in slightly stiffer springs, and check when all the advance is in. Question, between my first run, and my Buick torque show second run, spinning but my mph was almost identical to my first run, what does that tell me? So in a nutshell, get the launch dialed in, then worry about everything else:grin:
as a general rule of thumb if you're spinning the tires some (but not blowing them away) your mph will be higher but your ET will be slower. the reason for this is you're helping the motor get into its power band faster (like slipping a clutch) Personally, i feel like mph is a much better consistent indication of what the car is doing because ET can be all over the place with traction, how the car shifts, etc.
The trap speed is the HP you are putting to the rear wheels. That can differ significantly from the HP at the crank. Look at my times. My engine made 602 HP at 5900 RPM. My car is heavy, 4000 lbs with me in it. (nothing in the trunk) I am running it through a heavy switch pitch converter, and a Gear Vendors Overdrive unit. My car should go through the traps at closer to 120 MPH, but I am losing power somewhere, and the SP and GV are my first guess. I am also shifting it somewhat low, 5700, and 5600, so I am not going through the traps at peak HP RPM. The SP is probably the biggest drain I would think, but that is what makes my car so drive able and economical. I drove my car 377 miles round trip, and made 6 passes all in the mid 11's. I checked my mileage on the final leg of my trip home and was shocked when it figured in at 18 MPG. Making HP is one thing, getting it all to the ground is another. Right now, I'm happy with a car that I can drive anywhere, that runs 11's consistently.
Suggestion would be to revisit your timing. Get a timing tape for your balancer or you can take measurements and maker your balancer. I think you should try setting your timing to all in by 2500 - between 34-36 degrees. Bring in your timing in a little later should help with launch and down the track. here is a pic of my harmonic balancer where I had 10,20,30,35 degree marks cut it so I could power time for all. also if you know a shop that still has an distributor machine have your distributor dialed in for your cam...
I believe that you have a lot left in tuning judging your combo. What card are you running. Do you have a tach? What are you shifting at. You should check your secondarys . I don't think your getting everything out of that combo. Hoosier dirt bozz tires actually work good on track Although 2 runs doesn't give you a lot of test time for a first time you did good. As far as reaction time think like this , your reaction was .448 so basically you want that .448 to happen during the last yellow light. Last yellow light comes on let off brake and hit gas.anticipate light not react to it. Keep practicing.
Theres a lot for me to learn, this is FUN, too bad I didn't start this sooner (going to the track) Yeah I feel theres quite a bit Im leaving on the table as far as tuning, but that's what this board and you fine people are for:TU: I wish there was a track in my back yard LOL, I'd be out there 24/7! This is addicting:eek2: Thanks for the encouragement and tips!!
[video]https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10205179662517122&set=vb.1412111172&type=2&theater[/video] Don't know if this is going to work, having a helluva time getting 2 vids and pics uploaded.
dont even concern your self with the light it means absolutely nothing, its way down on power tho unfortunately, I agree with the secondaries maybe not opening correctly or maybe spring psi on door is too tight and the doors are closing down track, I have had 350's do that as they just dont have the pull the big blocks do tru the intake, that is if its a Qjet if course in which case I would go to a DP holley, they run better on small blocks imo, but definitely have fun and dont get discouraged its supposed to fun, and not always easy
I agree, it seems like its running outta steam. It a Holley 750 Vac secondary dual feed. I never really liked the secondary adjustment method, according to the instructions, even with the lightest spring they don't fully open till 5680 rpm.
I have the original 7041544 (I think that's the number) Q-Jet, but the air horn is warped, and I bought the Holley years ago to replace it. Would the original Q-Jet suffice if repaired and calibrated for my combo, or just go with the Holley DP?
I just ran an 11.63 @ 115.20 MPH, 1.66 short time, with a Jim Weise built Q Jet, and it got 18 MPG at one point on my trip home.
I ran 12.60s consistently with a qjet then found out was running out of fuel at top end. Fuel pump just could not feed more. Which is something you might want to look at too. Was running holley blue now Mallory 140 .
LOL, why did I figure that was commingp I NEVER did like the secondary set up on the vac secondaries, full open at 5700 plus rpm? REALLY! With the lightest spring? WTH Im not going for fuel economy, hahahauzzled: I want to stay with a 750 cfm, beyond that, anything else I should consider when looking at a Holley 750 DP?
