I believe I have a GM 12 bolt type 2 rear differential. Is it possible to swap the carrier & ring and pinion out for a 3 or 4 series and further strengthen the rear end?
Great news. Sounds like a series 4 carrier, ring and pinion and c clip eliminators are next on the list for me.
wHY C-CLIP ELIMINATORS? are YOU A BRACKET RACER? TRAILERING YOUR CAR TO THE TRACK? Buy NEW quality axles instead of elim bearing blocks. If you are using disc brakes you rwill never need elim kit. disc brakes will hold the axles in if they brake. JIm JD Race
Most people know that I not a fan of c-clip eliminators,nor will I install them on the rearends that I build. If your application needs something like that,then I cut the housings ends off and weld on a new pair of housing ends,like the Moser #7900,to give you a true bolt-in axle. Then you order a pair of custom shafts for the rearend. Does it cost more? Yes. Is it the better way? Yes.
Interesting. What is wrong with c clip eliminators? I work at Jegs and that has always been a go to. In today's world is it just seen as a waste of money? Not sure on the direction with the car yet. Eventually I'm sure it will make its way to the track. Currently has drum breaks. This GM 12 bolt should have 30 spline axles. Seems pretty stout, but it will have a mild 455 4 speed in front of it soon.
The eliminators were originally intended to go straight ahead. They are not really intended for side loads of cornering and street driving. And yes,sooner or later,they will leak. Just look at how it’s done. You have the vertical flange of the axle tube and the vertical flange of the eliminator. You bolt that together with 4 bolts and some rtv. Those two vertical surfaces are taking the weight of the car. Is a half-as band-aid at best. Yes,they sell because you can do it all at home without an axle jig or a welder. And it’s cheaper of course.
The Monza in my Avatar has c-clip elim blocks and 33 spline axles with 8.5 spool. I ... OH GOD if I write this it is going to leak....lol. And they have never leaked. BUT again I only drag race with them. I can weld ends on etc. BUT I try to use my cars as experimental test mules for people to know it can work or be done. etc. Jim
I try not to OVER engineer my cars so that when I tell people it will be fine on the street If can reference my cars and give them confidence it will work fine. OR if it failed then I recommend another way. People are always asking How much HP can it handle etc. So I try to give them reasonable answers and numbers the best that we have tested them to. Biggest thing...IF you can afford better ...BUY IT.
I simply don’t do it because there is a better way. Over time,I have seen a variety of failures with those on street cars. I’m the one that gets to correct it.
Well thank you all for the education. Looks like I will be avoiding the eliminators now. I'm going to look into that Moser #7900. I have to ask though. I've never seen an axle jig. It's that something that can be bought? Or easily created?
sEND IT TO A SHOP. That will be a LARGE expense to buy. I can not image what narrowing bar costs these days with all the pucks and end pucks you would need to do the job. I bought mine so long ago...I am dreading replacing mine... AGE ...I have used it soooo much now.
question...What kind of power are you putting down ? I have run c-clip aftermarket axles on my 454 1971 4000 pound monte that runs 12s I still have drums not elim kit. RUN slicks etc. If you are really worried about snapping your axles just get a cheap 400.00 disc brake kit. That will do the job for better braking and act as a elim kit so your axles do noit come flying out IF they do break. The cost of you doing all this end work and 500.00 in aftermarket axles seems extreme if your not racing every weekend. ... Just trying to help figure out what you really need here. If money is not an issue...Then have at it. JIm JD Race
600HP. I do have arrowspace brakes on my list of things to purchase. I was originally curious if the rear end housing types where physically different or if the difference was only in the carrier and gears. If it's only the carrier/gears, I was going to beef up this 12 bolt.
