Fusible link - what to do

Discussion in 'Sparky's corner' started by Electra Sweden, Jan 13, 2023.

  1. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Seems like a lot of trouble to go through. Fusible links get the job done simply, and they are easy to replace.
     
  2. Max Damage

    Max Damage I'm working on it!

    LOL! A "curry" color coded wire!
     
    12lives likes this.
  3. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    Post some pictures! Interesting to see what stuff is available from other countries...
     
  4. Electra Sweden

    Electra Sweden Well-Known Member

    I needed a proper solution for the extensions to the stock electrical systems, like the subwoofer. It becomes much cleaner and easy to follow if all supplies are connected to the same node. Also I had to build a new engine wire harness anyway as the one on was rotted out. So the main hassle was to figure out how to re-route the 2 cables that previously went to the starter before. It is a lot easier to troubleshoot the fuses now than before, and I have much better control over the amperage in the cables. But sure, with a bone-stock and working electrical system this probably wouldn't have been worth it.

    My engine is half apart and my engine bay is not really in show condition, so no great pictures. But anyway...

    This is the mounting of the fusebox. I have one fused 16mm2 cable going from the battery to this. The way of attaching the cable to the battery connector is probably temporary. The clamp used as a connection point might have a bit too high resistance for this amperage. On the other side of a large fuse the alternator is connected. This means the alternator cable is short circuit protected by the fuse. I got the fuse box from a local supplier but I have seen many similar and identical product online.
    20230314_211744.jpg

    The red cable over the A/C is the main alternator output connection. The alternator is off currently. I have either the GM 12SI or 10SI alternator. This outputs up to 63A and this should be too much for the 10AWG original cable inside the stock engine harness. You could reroute a fatter cable like this with the stock wire harness also. Would just need to disconnect and isolate the stock 10AWG off-branch that originally goes to the alternator.
    20230314_211824.jpg

    The supply wires that went to the starter before are branched off of the engine wire harness and attached along the AC lines. The AC is not in use. The wires are abrasion protected by Coroplast TapeTube. It is basically a tube made out of the same material as wire harness tape. Big fan of this product, quick to apply and in my view it does look very nice. Many vehicle manufacturers use this. In retrospect I would probably rather have pulled the wires towards the driver side headlight and then rightwards behind the radiator towards the battery. But this routing was alright too. https://www.coroplast-tape.com/en/coroplast-tapetubes/
    20230314_213236.jpg
     
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