I am having a hard time reaching my goals and thought maybe my goals are not attainable. I was hoping for 6.80 or 10's in the 1/4. Please look at my combo/times and let me know what you think 65 Skylark - 3750 lbs w/ me race ready 464 stg 2 - 625 HP 2" headers w/3" exhaust w/ dyno max mufflers Auto w/ 4k stall 4:10 rear 2/ dick miller suspension and QA1 shocks on all 4 corners - Hoosier QTPs 28x11.5 He is my pass last night (1/8 mile): 60' 1.60 330' 4.699 MPH 72.18 1/8 7.32 MPH 92.16 So, am I missing something in my combination or should I be happy w/ what I have???? Thanks,
How do you know you have 625 hp? Net or gross? What cam, compression, carb? Any front suspension mods? Even if you had traction problems, it seems your mph should be higher. Good luck!
Clark, The engine was dyno'd at 625. It is Tri-shields's level 3. Cam is a solid grind from TA 260/266 w/ 11:1 compression and an 950 holley DP. Front suspension has trick springs, no sway bar and QA1 shocks set at zero. Regards,
Your speed is very low for the HP that is claimed and the car weight. I would expect to be no less than low 100's in the 1/8. Altitude and weather conditions could be big factors, if you could post the altitude and weather conditions it would be a big help in figuring this out.
Dennis, Elevation is 630 feet. Weather was upper 80's w/ humidy under 50%. The engine was dyno by Jim Wiese last May and I had the car scaled yesterday to see what it weighed. I know that the combination should produce better results but i cannot find the missing link.
One thing you didn't mention was what rear end you have, the reason I mention this is that you will loose from 15 to 20% of your Horsepower thru the drive train. From other web sites, and figuring 20% lose, that's 500 hp to the rear wheels and with that I'd say from your 1/8 mile time slip, it's right. The web site also mentioned 11.39 @ 119 in the quarter. I can believe this, my '65 convert. with 11 to 1, 462, iron heads, ran 11.20 @ 118 with a 3500 stall and 4.10 gear, 1 7/8 headers and 3 in. flowmasters. It weighed 3540 lbs without me, with me and race ready had to be 3750lbs. I could be wrong, some drive trains are more efficient and do not loose as much HP. Here's what I suggest, nitrous......I"squeezed" the above mentioned motor to run consistant 10.40s @ 128, with a 200 shot. Good luck, I like the car. Gary G
maybe check the timing , after that your 60 foot time is bad. does it spin bog or stumble. if it bogs or falls flat maybe some jet extensions? with that kind of power it should easily go mid tens.
Running a rear power valve with no jet extensions can cost 2-3 tenths. Check it. Thats just how they come from Holley. If you have to buy jet extensions make sure to buy the screw in type with notched float. Second, you need to make sure your holding fuel pressure going down track. Being you had it dyno'd cuts down where your losses are at.
Guys thanks for all of the input. I know my 60' times are weak but the car leaves good and doesn't bog. No rear power vavle and I do have screw in jet extension. Fuel pressure never falls below 5 3/4 psi. My rear is a chevy 12 bolt. Regards,
The carb setup was how you ran it on the dyno, Right? Did you have it dyno'd with the mufflers and pipe size your running? If not you my need to rejet the carb. You have a good setup. Your mph is low. Even if you et was 7.20's but your mph was @98 that would be a good sign but your et and mph match ok. I would look at your carb setup. I would think the timing is still set from when it ran in the dyno. If you can't get it out of tuning it might be something with your converter or transmission. What type of trans and converter are you running? I would be disappointed in the et/mph but I feel it's there, you just have to find where your loosing it at. 7.20's at 92 is only good for 11.50's +/- a little. :rant:
Same carb set up but a different set of pipes and mufflers. Timing was off at 26 degrees due to the mechanical advance not coming in. I reset it to 34 degrees, rechecked it to about 4k and it was rock steady. I think I will buy an MSD distributor this week, lock out the timing and get back to the track. Maybe, just maybe my old distributor is doing strange things with the timing. I have run several converters over the last couple of months. The lastest one is a billet job from Art Carr and seems to be very efficent. Regards,
There are a lot of items that can rob power or lose MPH. A few items to check, brakes can bind up or not release, try rolling the car by hand to see how hard it moves. Pinion angle can rob lots of power, the car probably didn't come with a 12 bolt rear so pinion angle could be off costing power to the wheels. Front end alignment, tow in or out or improper caster and camber can cause binding. The rear thrust washer in a TH400 is prone to breaking and will cause tons of drag and eventually eat the clutches. I had one of these go out, I gained almost 10MPH in the quarter with a new trans with roller bearing set up. It can sometimes be a big job to get a new combo sorted out. A chassis dyno may help find the problems and save you some headaches.
Guys, Thanks for all of the suggestions. I had the chassis check and pinion set by Wolfe Craft racing so I am sure that is in line. Brakes are okay but I should have the alingment check again as it does look like it is a like out. I am going to replace the distributor this week and take it back out on Friday. If I don't see any improvement I will take it to the chassis dyno Saturday. Wish me luck..... Thanks,
Sounds like you have spent lots of time making sure everything is right with the car. I think the distributor is a good switch even if it doesn't take care of the problem. I would also double check the timing with another light, I have seen several timing lights that are not acurate. Good luck.
Good idea on the light. I never thought of that, thanks. I hope that changing the distributor at least moves me in the right direction. I am starting to get really frustrated. Regards
Well the new MSD distributor (locked @ 34*) and coil didn't solve my problem. He is a run from last night in near identical weather. 60 - 1.60 330 - 4.663 MPH - 72.57 1/8 - 7.311 MPH - 90.35 I lost almost two MPH but ran the same time! It seems that is does not pull well in 3rd gear, almost like it hesitates or won't rev. The only thing that I have not changed in the ignition is the 6AL box but those usually work or they don't. Still have 6+ psi of fuel at the 1/8. Ideas? Thanks,
Hmmmm.. Have you looked at your plugs after a run yet? Check you air bleeds on you carburater. It doesnt take much to plug an air bleed. Looking down at the top of your carb it will be the inside air bleeds. They should be the screw in type if you have a newer 950 HP. Have you check to make sure your getting full throttle at the carb when your foot is on the floor?
What shift point are you using? What is your jetting, and how is your rear float level? Did you drop the level with the secondary throttle rod when adjusting it? You may also want to try less timing. You need less advance at higher RPMs for better top end performance. Since your converter stall is high, 29*-32* total ignition may work better for you. I was involved with a similar horsepower combination that liked 31* total ignition with a 4200 stall converter and Carb Shop 990 with #80 front and #88 rear jets (rear power valve blocked). It shifted best at 6400, and ran 11 teens @ 120 at 4100 lbs. At least you are starting in the 11s. Just keep changing one thing at a time, and the 10s will be here before you know it! Cheryl
Are you running an alternator ? What voltage do you have under load ? Make sure you have a good feed line and ground for the box .
